Urania riphaeus wing scales 20x & 40x
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Urania riphaeus wing scales 20x & 40x
Had a bash at this moth again tonight this time with my Nikon 20x and 40x objectives...
20x Objective at full OM bellows extension for 22-25:1 I think. (36 images in stack)
40x Objective at full OM bellows extension for 45-50:1 by my estimates! (49 images in stack)
20x Objective at full OM bellows extension for 22-25:1 I think. (36 images in stack)
40x Objective at full OM bellows extension for 45-50:1 by my estimates! (49 images in stack)
- augusthouse
- Posts: 1195
- Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:39 am
- Location: New South Wales Australia
Laurie,
The colours and detail are visually delicious, so too in the earlier post.
The 20x and 40x; are they 210/0 objectives? . What is the length of the OM bellows at full extension?
Craig
The colours and detail are visually delicious, so too in the earlier post.
The 20x and 40x; are they 210/0 objectives? . What is the length of the OM bellows at full extension?
Craig
Last edited by augusthouse on Thu Mar 12, 2009 2:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"
Thanks Craig! I've spent 3 evenings looking at this moth up close now and I'm not remotely finished with it yet!
The 20x and 40x are 210mm objectives (compared to 160mm for the trusty 10x), but I think the OM bellows together with the flange-sensor distance in a 4/3 body gives around this magnification. It is a guestimate though!
One of these days I really must stick a micrometer slide or something in front of the setup to check!
FYI the two objectives are:-
Nikon M Plan 20/0.4 LWD 210/0
Nikon M Plan 40/0.5 ELWD 210/0
The 20x and 40x are 210mm objectives (compared to 160mm for the trusty 10x), but I think the OM bellows together with the flange-sensor distance in a 4/3 body gives around this magnification. It is a guestimate though!
One of these days I really must stick a micrometer slide or something in front of the setup to check!
FYI the two objectives are:-
Nikon M Plan 20/0.4 LWD 210/0
Nikon M Plan 40/0.5 ELWD 210/0
- augusthouse
- Posts: 1195
- Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:39 am
- Location: New South Wales Australia
Laurie,
What's the 'view' like with an extension of 210mm between the sensor and thread of the objective when using the 20x and 40x?
Also, the increments between frames in the stack, did you use the microscope focus block?
Craig
What's the 'view' like with an extension of 210mm between the sensor and thread of the objective when using the 20x and 40x?
Also, the increments between frames in the stack, did you use the microscope focus block?
Craig
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"
I think there's a mark on the camera at the sensor plane so I will have a go at shooting a comparison between that and full extension!
Yes I'm currently using a 'sawn-off' BHA stand. I think on the 40x image I was doing 2 marks on the fine focus dial per step.. Possibly 5 marks per shot with the 20x. Now I have something with markings I should start to take a note of the settings!
Yes I'm currently using a 'sawn-off' BHA stand. I think on the 40x image I was doing 2 marks on the fine focus dial per step.. Possibly 5 marks per shot with the 20x. Now I have something with markings I should start to take a note of the settings!
- augusthouse
- Posts: 1195
- Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:39 am
- Location: New South Wales Australia
- Charles Krebs
- Posts: 5865
- Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:02 pm
- Location: Issaquah, WA USA
- Contact:
Laurie,
They really are a great subjects. The lighting on the two lower mag shots you posted on Tuesday is really wonderful!
These are good stacks as well, but the lighting looks a little "rougher". These really are tricky to light if you are using electronic flash units. (Is that what you used?) Just moving the lights ever so slightly can make a huge difference. The small highlights are really tough to deal with. Sometimes I think if you can deal effectively with the vibration issue, continuous light is a big help in effectively lighting these (or electronic flash with good modeling lights).
They really are a great subjects. The lighting on the two lower mag shots you posted on Tuesday is really wonderful!
These are good stacks as well, but the lighting looks a little "rougher". These really are tricky to light if you are using electronic flash units. (Is that what you used?) Just moving the lights ever so slightly can make a huge difference. The small highlights are really tough to deal with. Sometimes I think if you can deal effectively with the vibration issue, continuous light is a big help in effectively lighting these (or electronic flash with good modeling lights).
Thanks chaps!
Charlie, yes I'm till using the twinflash, I'm still on the lookout for a reasonably priced, reasonably specified fiber optic unit and twin light guide. Plenty seem to come up in the US but I'm getting stung for customs fees on everything I import these days so trying to source in the EU somewhere...
I also still move the subject, with a fixed camera and fixed lighting. I wonder if I'm not getting to the scale where that matters, particularly with an interesting specimen like this, where I guess moving the lights slightly can cause entire colour shifts.
Thanks for the info Elf, I can use that to help me to calculate what I am getting in terms of magnification. Still using the E330 - I think it's a lovely little camera, particularly for this kind of work - and doubt I'll upgrade until I wear it out! (The tilting LV screen is also a godsend in the Fungi season, and for the moss; saving me from lying on the floor as I used to do!!)
Charlie, yes I'm till using the twinflash, I'm still on the lookout for a reasonably priced, reasonably specified fiber optic unit and twin light guide. Plenty seem to come up in the US but I'm getting stung for customs fees on everything I import these days so trying to source in the EU somewhere...
I also still move the subject, with a fixed camera and fixed lighting. I wonder if I'm not getting to the scale where that matters, particularly with an interesting specimen like this, where I guess moving the lights slightly can cause entire colour shifts.
Thanks for the info Elf, I can use that to help me to calculate what I am getting in terms of magnification. Still using the E330 - I think it's a lovely little camera, particularly for this kind of work - and doubt I'll upgrade until I wear it out! (The tilting LV screen is also a godsend in the Fungi season, and for the moss; saving me from lying on the floor as I used to do!!)
Urania riphaeus wing scales 20x & 40x
Laurie,
Have you found a fiber optic setup yet? If not, you might be interested in something that Pete Ganzel has put together (ex: http://www.pbase.com/pganzel/image/91003812 ). He uses some ancient B&L mini light guides as the basis for his design, and I have found a source for these (independent from him, although it may be his source too). These very small light guides (length 12", diam. < 1/4") can be found at "Surplus Shack" for $50 ( http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/t1531.html ). I bought a set of these, and found it simple to attach them to one of the twin lights of a Canon MT-24EX (which I believe you use). The base of the guide goes into half of a plastic container (painted white inside, black outside) that fixes to the flash; and the tips of the guides attach to a 72mm lens hood that surrounds the objective/ lens. I don't have photos of my set-up to share yet but I do have an image of one result.
See image HERE.
Image is of the head a small micropezid fly from Ecuador. [Shot with a Leitz 4.3x/0.15 lens on bellows, about 190mm extension, Canon EOS 40D; HF, 35 layers]
Although this US-based solution doesn't help you the issue re. the hassle of importing items, it seems effective and inexpensive. If you or anyone is interested, I can eventually put together more info & images of my little fiber-flash setup.
Cheers, Eric
Admin edit: to confirm with posting guidelines
Have you found a fiber optic setup yet? If not, you might be interested in something that Pete Ganzel has put together (ex: http://www.pbase.com/pganzel/image/91003812 ). He uses some ancient B&L mini light guides as the basis for his design, and I have found a source for these (independent from him, although it may be his source too). These very small light guides (length 12", diam. < 1/4") can be found at "Surplus Shack" for $50 ( http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/t1531.html ). I bought a set of these, and found it simple to attach them to one of the twin lights of a Canon MT-24EX (which I believe you use). The base of the guide goes into half of a plastic container (painted white inside, black outside) that fixes to the flash; and the tips of the guides attach to a 72mm lens hood that surrounds the objective/ lens. I don't have photos of my set-up to share yet but I do have an image of one result.
See image HERE.
Image is of the head a small micropezid fly from Ecuador. [Shot with a Leitz 4.3x/0.15 lens on bellows, about 190mm extension, Canon EOS 40D; HF, 35 layers]
Although this US-based solution doesn't help you the issue re. the hassle of importing items, it seems effective and inexpensive. If you or anyone is interested, I can eventually put together more info & images of my little fiber-flash setup.
Cheers, Eric
Admin edit: to confirm with posting guidelines
- rjlittlefield
- Site Admin
- Posts: 23626
- Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:34 am
- Location: Richland, Washington State, USA
- Contact:
Eric, thanks for the information about the lighting gear -- very helpful.
We would definitely appreciate seeing more information and images from & about your setup!
By the way, I edited your post to turn the image from inline to linked, to conform with the general posting guidelines about not adding images to other people's threads.
(That's one of the forum's many rules that are easy to miss. And there are exceptions, of course. Life is too complicated...)
--Rik
We would definitely appreciate seeing more information and images from & about your setup!
By the way, I edited your post to turn the image from inline to linked, to conform with the general posting guidelines about not adding images to other people's threads.
(That's one of the forum's many rules that are easy to miss. And there are exceptions, of course. Life is too complicated...)
--Rik
- augusthouse
- Posts: 1195
- Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:39 am
- Location: New South Wales Australia
Re: Urania riphaeus wing scales 20x & 40x
I second that . . .Eric F wrote:If you or anyone is interested, I can eventually put together more info & images of my little fiber-flash setup.
-Jan-