Hi all,
Need advise the exact screw size and name of the screw used on the Olympus illuminator as shown.
the thread outer diameter measured ~2,85mm but i found using M3 screw (measured ~2.83mm i have) can also go through the threaded hole but i need the one with a 'round' tip as show below.
Kindly advise.
BR
Adjustment/locking Screw
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
No head, M3, partial front-thread screw... will be hard to find.
Example:
http://www.mecavit-screws.com/special-p ... rettyPhoto
Something like in first row, 3rd from left.
On the other hand, if you to have the tools, would be very simple to make. But i guess you wouldnt be asking then
Also, keep in mind, that if it's just for locking the head, and you can live with that gross, ugly, unmatching screw , any longish m3 will do the job.
Example:
http://www.mecavit-screws.com/special-p ... rettyPhoto
Something like in first row, 3rd from left.
On the other hand, if you to have the tools, would be very simple to make. But i guess you wouldnt be asking then
Also, keep in mind, that if it's just for locking the head, and you can live with that gross, ugly, unmatching screw , any longish m3 will do the job.
Yes, but I wouldn't do it in a vice. It's important that the screw is round and straight. The OP could try mounting one in a Dremel tool collet chuck and filing as the setscrew rotates in the Dremel. I see a lot of M3 x 20mm setscrews on eBay but many don't show the pitch. It seems like that should be long enough. Is a sample available? This is something that a machinist could make in a few minutes, once setup.bralex wrote:Would it be reasonable to file it down from an existing screw? I personally would run an over-long screw through a nut, hold the nut in a vise (so as to not damage the threads), file the end, then cut off to the desired length. A slotted head can be cut with a hacksaw or a dremel.
-Gene
I’m not a mechanical guy but don’t think the exact size/shape does matter but I think with a ‘rounded tip’ it will not damage ie., causing any dent or cut the dovetail’s surface, I assumed.
Thanks all for the suggestions and certainly I’ll try the option using a vice and hand file and get the job done ?
BR
Thanks all for the suggestions and certainly I’ll try the option using a vice and hand file and get the job done ?
BR
MUCH easier with a cordless drill, really. If you do it all by hand and it's not circular in any section, it'll dig into the dovetail on the high-point, as you tighten it.
You can also spin it in the drill while holding it against abrasive paper, too. Aluminium oxide or silicon carbide though, "sand"paper is too soft.
You can also spin it in the drill while holding it against abrasive paper, too. Aluminium oxide or silicon carbide though, "sand"paper is too soft.
Chris R
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Hhmm...ChrisR wrote: it'll dig into the dovetail on the high-point, as you tighten it.
As I read jin's picture, the screw that he's replacing is one of the two fixed points that just establish centering. It's the screw at lower right, with the thumbwheel not shown, that gets turned to tighten the thing. So, no real problem for this one as long as the tip is not unusually sharp or rough.
--Rik