Genera wrote:You still need an adapter tube between it and the trinocular port ....
Oh, I didn't realise that.
What's supposed to go between the shutter unit and the trinoc tube?
See the 2nd post, 1st picture for an overview. The tube below the black Diagnostic Instruments tube is the adapter I'm talking about.
I have some tubes with M42 at the top which slide in to the trinoc port well enough that I should be able, maybe some tape, get it central and grip with the thumbscrew.
The 7th post, 1st pic shows, from above, the inside of the tube with a relay lens installed. That tube has a ledge to position the relay lens, centered and at the correct height. The DI PA1-12A or Nikon UFX/AFX shutter fits inside of that tube between the tube wall and the relay lens. Your tube will need a way to mount the RL at the correct height and it will need a 42mm diameter section long enough to provide stability for the tube or shutter above. Ask James about the bottom diameter of the lower adapter he's using. I think you need 38mm (ISO38). Nikon made at least 3 variations, the ISO38 tube, a 38mm dovetail, and a 42mm tube. To complicate matters a little more, the adapters with the ISO38 style bottom are available with and without the ledge for the relay lens.
The shutter appeals, for clattery Nikon cameras without EFSC.
It should be fairly simple to make a circuit to trigger it and time the opening. I used one for a short while by manually opening the camera shutter, and then after allowing adequate time for vibrations to settle I'd trigger the AFX shutter. The AFX shutter definitely produces less vibration but I didn't see much, if any, difference in my photos so I abandoned plans to automate it.
(Shipping varies all over the place. The $67 was to a different US State, and the "estimates" to the UK are never right!)
The second example I posted had a fixed shipping rate to the UK using the eBay Global Shipping Program, plus customs charges as a percent of the sale price.