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ChrisR
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Joined: 14 Mar 2009
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Location: Near London, UK
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 Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 3:36 pm Post subject: Epi lighting using a Nikon UM-2 Measurescope |
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Posts split from thread at Scalpel vs double-edge razor
| Smokedaddy wrote: | Here's the Feather blade at 40x. It's a PMAX stack. I'm not sure what the somewhat blurry areas are or IF it's just how it is. Haven't done the scalpel blade yet.
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At a tangent - how did you light the last image, with the 40x NA 0.80?
Only 0.8mm WD iirc. I assume you used epi-lighting?
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Chris R
Last edited by ChrisR on Tue Feb 13, 2018 4:19 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Smokedaddy
Joined: 07 Oct 2006
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Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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| ChrisR wrote: | At a tangent - how did you light the last image, with the 40x NA 0.80?
Only 0.8mm WD iirc. I assume you used epi-lighting? |
Yes ...
-JW: |
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ChrisR
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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Please excuse the continuation of the tangent 
I have the same parts, up to the top of the cream colored Trinoc tube.
Could you tell me what parts are not visible within, and above, please?
You have some photo eyepiece in there I assume, and the black tube - ?
thanks
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Smokedaddy
Joined: 07 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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Sure, the black tube is a Nikon microscope photo tube adapter PA01-12A with a Canon T-mount adapter. It has one of those 2.5x photo eyepieces in the trinocular tube. I don't normally use that setup. Meaning the tube and photo relay eyepiece but usually do with the MM-11 when using the EPI setup. I would think that the tube could easily be 3D printed or machines. They want a arm and a leg for one of those puppies. I found one on eBay for a fraction of the price of a new one so I bought it. The T-mount adapter doesn't fit like it should and I haven't looked into way yet since I rarely have used it.
-JW:h |
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Smokedaddy
Joined: 07 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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ChrisR
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks
The black part's just a plain tube, with no optics?
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Smokedaddy
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ChrisR
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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$269.00 and it's not even flocked!
Thanks, I have some plumbing which can go on there.
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Smokedaddy
Joined: 07 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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| I wouldn't pay that either, nor even 2/3rd's that. <g> |
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genera
Joined: 05 Oct 2011
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Location: California, USA
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ChrisR
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 9:32 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Gene
That looked attractive at $20 until I saw the shipping is $67 even to the US, and I'm in the UK.
There seem to be a lot of similar-looking Nikon contraptions about; I assume that's the only one with the relevant features and fittings?
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Smokedaddy
Joined: 07 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:10 am Post subject: |
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Just for clarification my pictured Frankinscope is a MM-11. I know they are similar. I wonder if the 'internal' focus gearing components are the same on the UM-2 is the same as a MM-11.
I still think it would be super simple to 3D print a tube 'exactly' as the one I posted and glue the proper camera adapter on one end.
A while back I 3D printed a Nikon MM-11 dovetail by 30.5 Tiffen filter adapter, see image below, just to see if it worked and for no particular reason. It's a Ttiffen 30.5 UV filter (number 2) that I took the glass out of, then glued it onto the 3D printed adapter (number 1). Then I reverse and screw my 28mm Schneider Kreuznach Componon on the end of it as shown below. Of course I can always redesign the 3D printed PLA adapter to make it shorter to some degree or longer.
-JW: |
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Smokedaddy
Joined: 07 Oct 2006
Posts: 1098
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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| BTW, I don't have a manual for the UM-2, only the UM-11U and UM-22U so I couldn't verify the focus components compatibility (not that it matters). |
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genera
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ChrisR
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Location: Near London, UK
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| Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:33 am Post subject: |
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| Genera wrote: | | You still need an adapter tube between it and the trinocular port .... |
Oh, I didn't realise that.
What's supposed to go between the shutter unit and the trinoc tube?
I have some tubes with M42 at the top which slide in to the trinoc port well enough that I should be able, maybe some tape, get it central and grip with the thumbscrew.
The shutter appeals, for clattery Nikon cameras without EFSC.
(Shipping varies all over the place. The $67 was to a different US State, and the "estimates" to the UK are never right!)
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