Finally built my dream focus stacking setup

mawyatt · Post by **mawyatt** » Sun Nov 06, 2016 4:53 pm

Peter,

Here's another rail that I was pointed to by Smokedaddy, it looks a lot like the ones you are using. It has 1mm pitch and is about 200mm long, the end looks like it needs an adapter to fit a standard NEMA 17 or other stepper motor. The carrage looks like it could take an adapter like you have for your setup, and the stepper adapter you have looks like it would fit too.

If I could get the adapters (I don't have access to a machine shop) I might give it a try and see how well it works at 1 micron steps with 10, 20 & 50X objectives. I can get the proper connector from Cognisys to have the stepper work with the Stackshot controller, so it should be just a matter of getting the proper adapters.

Best,

Mike

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THK-KR2001A-150 ... SwvgdW3is1

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Sun Nov 06, 2016 10:51 pm

Hi Mike,

OK, I think I have posted this link before. This is the THK KR20, its base is 40mm wide (you can search for KR series documents).

The shop owner told me the one I got is not THK (because I could not find part number on the rail in THK catalog), but a similar one made in Taiwan, not sure if all part are interchangeable because I do not have THK. Even so, the rails I got has 50mm base, probably similar to KR26, so all parts I got are not suitable for KR20

It seems the major obstacle to use this type of rail are these adapters, unfortunately, my CNC shop has minimum order requirement, else I can make some for members here.

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Sun Nov 06, 2016 11:37 pm

Anyone have a excellent in focus closeup picture of what the adapter might look like or a CAD file? I would think the adapter would be pretty simple to machine but who knows.

-JW:

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Mon Nov 07, 2016 1:50 am

You can google THK document for all KR series rails. I just checked the doc, the KR-20/KR26 has tapped (threaded) holes to mount the adapter (four of them at bottom). This means you have to have counter sink machined on the adapter.

There are THK motor mount adapter, the part number for KR20 is F20-E0E according to the doc, but I did not find any on eBay. I do not think it is hard to machine one at all, just need dimensions.

On the other hand, the one I have has through holes on the rail but the adapter is tapped, this is sort of silly but that is how it is. So here, the two are not compatible.

In terms of camera mount plate, you can find dimension in the doc, I believe it is 20 by 45 for the four M4 threaded holes for the KR20, so you can machine a plate according to that spec. I think my camera plate can be mounted on THK, but mine is designed for KR26 or KR33

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 10:50 pm

Flash helps a lot, again with Nikon 50X, NA of 0.45 infinite objective (different one)

This is part of Sunset Moth wing, I am truly surprised how big its scales are, I was expecting at least 10 columns and 6 rows of it, but only two by three.

Second thing is, the first image (with all options turned on except brightness) has streaks and dust trails, if there are that much shift in image, how can the second one (all options off) be just as sharp, with all that shifts, I would expect the second image to be fuzzy and not usable at all if there are so much shifts. Something is going on here.

all options on except brightness in Zerene

all options off

Chris S. · Post by **Chris S.** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 11:10 pm

Peter,

For comparison against another specimen of the same subject shot with a 50x/0.55 Mitutoyo, see here.

To my eye, the 50x Nikon image your showed seems decidedly "off"--even after allowing for the lower NA of the Nikon objective.

--Chris S.

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Tue Dec 27, 2016 11:21 pm

oh, thanks Chris! Will look into this.

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:18 am

Not having much experience at 50X, but now having GREAT images from ChrisS. I now have a ruler :-)

I think I found a few things in my setup, one thing is that table with single pole as leg to support it. Definitely will move the setup to a table with 4 legs. This could be why images in LCD vibrates when I walk by even though the floor is solid concrete.

Other things were stupid ones -- did not lock the camera in place TIGHTLY, the specimen holder was not locked tightly, very loose, might have to bring out those microstages.

Anyways, after finish those things, here is a new one, messed up the end point so the deepest part is a bit fuzzy. The second image is 100% crop of red rectangle. [edit] Again the objective is Nikon 50X NA of 0.45, all options turned off in Zerene for stacking. [edit]

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Fri Dec 30, 2016 10:32 am

The scales in last post seemed flat and round -- the ridges are wide and round(ish), but I believe it is just the lighting effect, so tried again. The first image still seems to have same look, flat and round, the second one shows a little more "edgy" because the light is coming from above, but unfortunately, it is over exposed at scale top, darn it is hard.

All images were shot with (surplus) Nikon 50x 0.45NA Canon 600D, Raynox 150 as tube lens and my "dream" rail :-) No sharpening, a little level adjustment to increase contrast

[EDIT] Replaced over exposed one with sharpened one[/EDIT]

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Sat Dec 31, 2016 3:39 am

Put the whole setup on a four legged table and now the light going straight down so that the valley and ridges of scale will appear equal size (vs flat ridges), this is not an aesthetic test, rather a mechanical one, so sure it looks like potato chip :-)

The first image is shrunken to 1024x683 and saved at 90% jpeg for PMN, it is from a TIFF which has some level and saturation (else it really looks like potato chip) change. No other changes. All Zerene options are off, no alignments. Subject is part of Sunset moth wing. Objective is Nikon 50x 0.45NA with Raynox 150 as tube lens, Canon 550D. The red arrows in first image point to areas that seem fuzzy, it is NOT fuzzy, the scales are semitransparent and those are the overlapping areas.

The second one has small amount of sharpening applied to it.

"Original"

Sharpened

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Sat Dec 31, 2016 5:29 am

It seems Sunset moth scales are both semi-transparent and reflective -- there is a white or light colored stick running across a few scales and you can see its reflection underneath it and you can see it when there is a scale above it (lower left corner)

austrokiwi1 · Post by **austrokiwi1** » Sat Dec 31, 2016 6:32 am

I have a vertical rig and from advice given in this forum and in references I went looking for a heavy table. That table has two pedestal legs with a stretcher between them( it is also made of Oak so its heavy). Before using it I checked all the joints and made sure they were secure. I then placed under the two pedestal legs 15kg Concrete pavers. To keep my wife happy I had glued felt to the bottom of each paver. The base plate of my rig is a 29kg(60 pound) slab of granite ( 600mm X 600 mm X 30mm) it sits on sorbothane feet on top of the table. The granite slab cost about US$10.00, and the 4 sorbothane feet totalled about $30.00. For all the work and expense you have gone to, investing in a good table( mine cost about US$120.00 from a second hand store) plus something like a granite slab and Sorbothane feet will really help improve your shots

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Sat Dec 31, 2016 9:41 pm

Thanks austrokiwi1, I did consider getting a piece of granite for it, but I was also debating cast iron one with T slot on them, this is why I was not moving the setup to the four legged table till it just won't work well. It is much easier to mount things on the cast iron platform because of the T slot, while it is hard to do so for granite, unless I am being ignorant.

I am building a rig to do stack and stitch with 50x objective, this is going to be very interesting.

mjkzz · Post by **mjkzz** » Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:02 am

Still can't do the right lighting on Sunset moth, so I picked an easy one to shoot.

elf · Post by **elf** » Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:45 am

mjkzz wrote:Thanks austrokiwi1, I did consider getting a piece of granite for it, but I was also debating cast iron one with T slot on them, this is why I was not moving the setup to the four legged table till it just won't work well. It is much easier to mount things on the cast iron platform because of the T slot, while it is hard to do so for granite, unless I am being ignorant.

I am building a rig to do stack and stitch with 50x objective, this is going to be very interesting.

Glue a piece of steel sheet metal onto the granite, then use magnets to position things. This is much more flexible than t-slots.