Vibration free photomicrographs

benjamind2014 · Post by **benjamind2014** » Mon May 11, 2015 3:11 pm

So I discovered that my Samsung NX300m doesn't have EFCS features that would remove one source of vibration.

Is there any way to avoid vibrations from affecting the image quality with cameras that do not have the EFSC features?

I know there is the option of using long exposure times and perhaps using a flash. How does this method work? What magnifications can they work with? I would be planning on going to 600x dry (no immersion) so being able to take photographs without the blurriness or loss of detail caused by vibrations would be wonderful.

I have actually been considering giving away the NX300m or relegating it to normal day to day photography and just buying a tried and true model that is known not to have vibration issues ie. from Canon or Nikon. I want to be using Darkfield so want a model without major noise issues when using Darkfield.

Is there an afocal method I can use by just resting the camera lens above the microscope eyepiece and taking the photos that way? Would that work well in my case?

Charles gave me some advice in a previous thread but since I'm away from home I won't be able to test anything out until I get back home. But I do hope I didn't waste any money on the NX300m. Last year I purchased this camera and I also purchased a microscope adapter for this model from an eBay so I am sure it can be used but I am just not sure how it is done with such an adapter being designed specifically for these cameras. It makes me wonder if these cameras work provided that certain things are done, certain settings etc are used. Hopefully it can be possible.

Any advice here would be appreciated.

Charles Krebs · Post by **Charles Krebs** » Mon May 11, 2015 3:52 pm

The newest Samsung cameras NX-1 and NX-500 offer EFSC with a very large caveat... you can only use it when a Samsung lens is attached. This means that the only way it could really be used with a microscope is in an afocal arrangement. I'm pretty sure the NX-300 did not offer this.

If you need to use a camera that can produce deleterious mechanical vibrations there are only a few tried and true options. They'll work OK for any magnification you will use.

One is to securely mount the camera, (typically on an external stand) so that it does not have any physical or "hard" contact at all with the microscope. (I did this for quite a long while... http://micropix.home.comcast.net/~micro ... index.html and http://www.krebsmicro.com/microsetup2/index.html)

Another is short duration electronic flash.

Another is long exposure times.

benjamind2014 · Post by **benjamind2014** » Mon May 11, 2015 6:03 pm

How does the flash option work? I am a bit confused as to how using a flash would work.

I may have to look into a used Sony NEX-5N.

What I can't believe, Charles, is that an adapter for the NX300 would be sold. I'm not sure what the point of using an adapter is when this camera does not have EFCS.

Pau · Post by **Pau** » Tue May 12, 2015 6:33 am

About afocal:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 9265#99265

About electronic flash
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=26185

About EFSC, most Canon EOS cameras provide it and also a very nice (and free) computer tethering software. There are some exceptions like the 60D that, despite having EFSC, does produce some significative vibration.
Some Sony NEX and alpha models also have nice EFSC but tethering is less convenient. The only Nikon with this feature is for now the full frame D810

This is a long topic to discuss, best to do it on some more specific models.

I would be planning on going to 600x dry (no immersion) so being able to take photographs without the blurriness or loss of detail caused by vibrations would be wonderful.

I suppose you mean 600X visual magnification equivalent (about 90X on APSC sensor). Even so, this is a lot of magnification with a dry objective, you need a very good high NA one to make sharp pictures.

discomorphella · Post by **discomorphella** » Tue May 12, 2015 4:32 pm

With long exposure times (e.g. > 1 to 1.5 seconds) for "still" specimens and flash for fast movers you can still take very nice micrographs with your current setup. You'll need to invest in a set of neutral density filters or dimmer controls for your illuminator for the >1s exposures. Flash integration has been described in many posts on PMG.net. I used both techniques for many years prior to obtaining my D810. You can also use Charlie's "decoupled mounting" for your DSLR; that method also takes beautiful micrographs without degradation from shutter vibration. So don't despair, you're not that far from sharp pictures....

David

benjamind2014 · Post by **benjamind2014** » Thu May 14, 2015 4:37 am

I'm making major progress. First thing I did was switch off OIS.

Then I set it to either the 3 or 7 second timer.

The images are much better. However I have another issue which isn't too bad. I cannot zoom to the actual pixels to really get a good look at the focus before taking the photo. I guess it's good enough but I would really like to see a 1x1 pixel to get a better idea of the quality of the image and to compare it to the image actually taken.

I suppose I could use a remote shutter and maybe this camera's WiFi mode allows the 1 to 1 pixel view to be possible. I'm not sure, I'll have to work something out but I'm a long way ahead from where I was.

Charles Krebs · Post by **Charles Krebs** » Thu May 14, 2015 12:22 pm

I cannot zoom to the actual pixels to really get a good look at the focus before taking the photo. I guess it's good enough but I would really like to see a 1x1 pixel to get a better idea of the quality of the image and to compare it to the image actually taken.

Ultimately (once you get some of the initial issues settled), it is really nice to finely tweak your setup so that your camera is exactly parfocal with the viewing eyepieces. It might be helpful to know what your microscope and adopter are?

benjamind2014 · Post by **benjamind2014** » Thu May 14, 2015 7:44 pm

I recently purchased an Olympus GB monocular horseshoe type microscope.

But then discovered that with camera connected it that it loses focus over time and I have to pull the focus back up to refocus.

It is one of those microscopes where the microscope tube moves to focus as opposed to the stage. I don't think these horseshoe type microscopes are appropriate for photomicrography. Maybe I am wrong on that, but I think it is going to be a struggle to keep parfocality if the focus keeps drifting forward over time. I think I will need to spend real money and acquire a serious instrument to do what I want to do.

I wanted to ask another question. With an analyzer slide and a polarizer over the illumination is it possible to get images like this or would I need a more complex setup (ie. a dedicated polarizing setup?).

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ind ... rian3.html

Charles Krebs · Post by **Charles Krebs** » Fri May 15, 2015 1:28 am

Wow... a good old GB... nearly as old as I am

The concept of simultaneous "parfocality" of camera and eyepieces, at least as I referred to it earlier, does not really apply here, since when the camera is attached there is no eyepiece viewing. However, when you focus with the eyepiece and then remove the viewing eyepiece and attach the camera you should ideally be very close to accurate focus in camera. You don't want to need to alter focus much to get the camera in focus.

I really don't know, but there must be some way to adjust the tension on the tube dovetail so that it does not "drift" down under the weight of the NX-300 (It's not the lightest camera, but not that heavy either).

If you get a polarizer under the slide, and one above (not between objective and subject, but somewhere before the camera sensor) you should be able to get polarized shots like the one you referenced. (You need to be able to rotate at least one of the polarizers).