Which objective.
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
-
austrokiwi1
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:53 am
Which objective.
My focus is coins. I have a range of camera lenses for 1-2 to 1-1 magnification and I have some cheap finite microscope objectives that with my rig can take me close to 20X magnification. For what I need, Photographically speaking, 20X is over kill. I think 5- 12 times magnification would cover every foreseeable imaging task( with coins). I have been quite happy with the shots I have been getting although the edges of the pictures suffer distortion etc. I would like to lift my game a little. I have searched this site looking for recommended microscope objectives but have just ended up confused. Could some one either post the link to the right thread that can enlighten me, or alternately recommend a suitable mid priced objective ( not more than €300-€400.00 would be preferable). I have a 210 large format enlarger lense that might work with an infinite objective my camera is full frame. Any suggestions greatly appreciated
Still learning,
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8
-
austrokiwi1
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:53 am
I managed to pick up a Nikon Plan Apo 2x 0.08 160. I am not sure I have done the right thing...I understand it is a finite objective so it will work on my bellows. I assume I will be able to get 10X magnification with this objective is that assumption correct. ( The objective is in the post)
Still learning,
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8
Austrokiwi1,austrokiwi1 wrote:I managed to pick up a Nikon Plan Apo 2x 0.08 160. . . . . I assume I will be able to get 10X magnification with this objective is that assumption correct.
I'd be very surprised if that lens delivers good results at magnifications much above 2x. (And even at 2x, you'll want to make sure it does not vignette.)
If you put this lens on a bellows, you probably could crank up the extension until this lens delivered nominal 10x magnification. But with the lens' tiny numerical aperture, I'd expect profound diffraction--so the additional magnification would be "empty magnification," with very poor resolution. And the lens would be operating far outside its designed intent, which is always risky.
If it's 10x you want, why not use a finite lens designed for 10x, with a much higher NA, that is well-known for delivering high quality at 10x? Such a lens that comes immediately to mind is the Nikon N Plan 10x/0.30.
Cheers,
--Chris
If it's the all black one (from Liverpool?) then I fear it may not be all you hope. Not only does it give a minimal image circle diameter, but the working distance is very short - 5.3mm iirc.
On a microscope it's parfocal of course, which with a lens of FL around 100mm, must be a design constraint.
I may be wrong but it doesn't sound ideal for coins
.
There was a Nikon plan achromat, NA 0.075 which had a WD about 11mm, which gives you a better chance to play with lighting.
By extending the "tube" you will get more magnifcation, but not much. The WD would be even less.
On a microscope it's parfocal of course, which with a lens of FL around 100mm, must be a design constraint.
I may be wrong but it doesn't sound ideal for coins
.There was a Nikon plan achromat, NA 0.075 which had a WD about 11mm, which gives you a better chance to play with lighting.
By extending the "tube" you will get more magnifcation, but not much. The WD would be even less.
-
austrokiwi1
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:53 am
Rats! "an investment in experience"
Ok at least I am getting a steer in the right direction now. The coins I deal with are large 39.5mm to 43mm in diameter. When imaging a whole coin I am working close to 1-1.2 ( Have I written that right? )
from time to time I want to image a specific part of a coin often the maximum magnification( about 3.7 - 1) that I can get out of my SK 50mm is perfectly adequate. Less frequently I need to compare tool marks, often to identify which coins were produced from the same tooling. these are 18th century coins and sometimes a specific engraver left tell tale marks on letter punches. Thats when my magnification needs jump to 10x - 12X. I have 10x generic objective Perhaps I should just be content with that. I will try the 2X out, but from what you guys are saying it going back on ebay.
Ok at least I am getting a steer in the right direction now. The coins I deal with are large 39.5mm to 43mm in diameter. When imaging a whole coin I am working close to 1-1.2 ( Have I written that right? )
from time to time I want to image a specific part of a coin often the maximum magnification( about 3.7 - 1) that I can get out of my SK 50mm is perfectly adequate. Less frequently I need to compare tool marks, often to identify which coins were produced from the same tooling. these are 18th century coins and sometimes a specific engraver left tell tale marks on letter punches. Thats when my magnification needs jump to 10x - 12X. I have 10x generic objective Perhaps I should just be content with that. I will try the 2X out, but from what you guys are saying it going back on ebay.
Still learning,
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8
Experience is what you get lots of when something goes wrong..
You can Return the objective, within 14 days. It'll only cost you the postage.
The 14 days starts when you receive it, and you have to dispatch it within the 14 days. It's a pain for the seller, but that's the rules.
if your 10x is a finite and you aren't happy with it, you could use the lenses you have with a 10x BE infinite (eg http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=27205) for 5x - 10x, give or take a little vignetting with some combinations.
You can Return the objective, within 14 days. It'll only cost you the postage.
The 14 days starts when you receive it, and you have to dispatch it within the 14 days. It's a pain for the seller, but that's the rules.
if your 10x is a finite and you aren't happy with it, you could use the lenses you have with a 10x BE infinite (eg http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=27205) for 5x - 10x, give or take a little vignetting with some combinations.