Here's the essence of the problem. Unlike other Olympus arms such as the CHA, here on the CHT the condenser block and the focus block are largely made of a single piece of metal. In this picture I've tinted it blue so you can see what's involved.

In the end view, it's easier to see some parts of the construction. One track is machined into the big blue integrated block. The other track is machined into a small block that is bolted to the big one. At this end there's an adjustment screw (not shown) that runs down and threads into that tapered brass nut you can see at image center. The tapered nut forces the two blocks apart, and a locking screw then holds the two blocks in place. At least I think that's how it works. I haven't disassembled everything to be sure, and I don't have a manual for this one. By the way, what looks like a horizontal joint in the blue block is really just a mold line. In a moment we'll see the other end, which is machined differently to make it obvious where there are not joints.

The other end of the blocks has the same arrangement, with the two screws shown here in what would normally be the front view with the condenser holder removed.

Here at the upper end of the assembly you can see more clearly the big and little blocks that project back into the arm to form the tracks. It's clear on this polished end that there's no joint between the big block and one of the tracks.

This arrangement is very different from the CHA, and not nearly as friendly for repurposing. With a CHA, the condenser block just screws off leaving a nice flat threaded face on the focus block. But to get to a similar state with this CHT would seem to require slicing completely through that big block. That's not an easy task and you'd want to completely disassemble the block first to avoid damaging the ball bearing tracks. Alternately, one could remove the condenser tracks and bolt an additional spacer up there to clear the stage mounting tabs that stick out, or perhaps just hack off the stage mounting tabs while solidly clamping the big block to protect the races. But either of those last two approaches still leaves a big chunk of metal that's basically just taking up space.
On the back side of the arm things are lovely. There's just a plastic cover that pops off ...

...to reveal lots of places where the block could be attached to a new mounting plate.

Questions, comments?
--Rik