Connecting Olympus BH-2 microscope and E-3 DSLR

[g4lab]

I am sorry I have come into this thread rather late.

You should probably just buy an E-3 to C mount adaptter which should be available for $10 or similar.

The Diagnostics coupler you have is very high quality and is focusable. So you will be able to carefully parfocalize the setup so that you can focus with the oculars. It probably is not a bad idea to have a video feed from the camera for the last bit of fine focusing but the DI coupler should make it quite simple to get them very close.

These couplers were designed for use both with 35mm cameras and also with video cameras that people used to use prior to the widespread arrival of digital cameras. Accordingly ones like the one illustrated above have less magnification than relay lenses needed for full frame sized sensors.
But with smaller sensors they can work exactly as originally intended.

The DI line of couplers was the most comprehensive ever made. They wanted to have a coupler and a bottom clamp to fit any camera and any microscope and came very close to achieving that. Unfortunately they have vastly shrunk their product offerings , a casualty of economics and downturns in research spending.

They had versions of these couplers with adjustable compensating lenses that allowed you to select the first lens in the relay series so that you could
sort of dial out any residual color.

They also had an HRP series that were analogous to some relay lenses that the big companies used to offer. These would correct for higher NA lenses.

If you get this thing set up and there is residual color I may be able to swap you an HRP coupler. I only use them on stereos and don't expect to need any color correction.

A micro 4/3 camera or even a full sized 4/3 camera should work with a C mount with no problem at all. Especially with a DI focusing mount.

There are M42 lens to 4/3 camera rings available and probably C mount lens to M42 (harder to find and make sure you don't go backwards)

[Ichthyophthirius]

So this adapter, designed supposedly for 11 mm diagonale, can also generate an image covering the 21.6 mm diagonale, without a zoom optic, and has a range of image distances spanning 17 - 37 mm whilst maintaining the tube length, all at the same time? That would be great.

Actually, you can determine the image distance of the adapter yourself.

- Put a high-contrast object under the microscope (like a histology slide or similar) and focus while looking through the eyepieces.

- Put the adapter into the phototube.

- Hold a piece of paper above the photo tube and lower the paper until you see a sharp projection of the slide.

- The maximum distance between the C-mount thread (when lowered all the way down) and the paper is the maximum flange focal distance you can achieve with this adapter.

Ichthy

[g4lab]

That would be a very good thing to try. Usually works great.
The worst case is that you won't get parfocality but I think there is a pretty good chance you will be able to. Those things have a lot of travel.

[Ichthyophthirius]

An additional test you can do at the same time:

Draw (or print) two circles on the paper
- 21.6 mm diameter (diagonale of the 4/3 sensor)
- 15.9 mm diameter (diagonale of the Nikon 1 sensor)

Then see how well the projected image covers the two circles. This will give you an idea about the amount of vignetting you can expect; although you won't know how good the image quality will be towards the edges until you have taken some test images.

Ichthy

[allelopath]

When moving the paper up and down, the image is indeed crisper the closer the paper gets, but it could be that the light is weaker as you get further away, not necessarily because its out of focus.

With the circle test, it can fill either circle, just by moving further away.

I guess I will get a C Mount adapter for the E-3 and see what happens.

I don't know that one is available though. Several sites, for instance, here:
http://www.cowboystudio.com/product_p/c ... dapter.htm

it say out of stock.
But maybe this is it:
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-C-Mou ... 51437.html

[Ichthyophthirius]

Yeah, either will do. Just try it out!

When you attach the adapter, double-check that the inside if the adapter ring doesn't interfere with the mirror (the adapter was made for M4/3, so you never know).

And use the mirror-lockup function of the camera (I suppose it has something like that) to reduce vibrations. I read that the E-3 needs at least 2s to "calm down" before you can take an image on a microscope.

Ichthy

[g4lab]

Are the 4/3 and micro 4/3 the same flange with just a different back focal distance? I have never handled any of this particular series of gear.

[allelopath]

I ordered and received one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAS5SM/ref ... TE_3p_dp_1

It doesn't fit. It is too small. However, because it is too small I am able to, somewhat precariously, set the camera on top and take a photo. First I focus through eyepiece, then readjust the focus for the camera, using the 2.5" LCD. First photo here: http://imgur.com/xNBDgIk

So it appears to work.

To answer g4lab's question, it appears that there is a difference in the flange. The camera has a 4/3 Lens system and adapter is a micro 4/3. Perhaps that is the difference, but I see no "regular" 4/3 adapters available, only micro.
Anybody know what this is all about?

[The QCC]

Your 4/3 sensor camera is much superior to any dedicated microscope camera under $500.00

Your most economical solution is to buy a camera adapter with a 2x relay lens.
$80.00 Microscope camera adapter
The quality may not be equivalent to an Olympus Photo Eyepiece but is more than adequate for many microscopist and 1/3 the cost.

[Ichthyophthirius]

I ordered and received one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAS5SM/ref ... TE_3p_dp_1 It doesn't fit. It is too small.

G4lab is right, there is a difference between 4/3 and m4/3 lens fitting. This is really confusing!

I can't find a m4/3 lens to 4/3 camera adapter (because of the difference in back focal distance it wouldn't make sense).

Could you get a simple adapter for 4/3 www.ebay.com/itm/220876288206 and super-glue the c-mount adapter to it?? I have done this for my camera once, it's a semi-permantent solution (if it works out, you can drill some holes through the adapter and put screws in). Or buy (yet another) adapter M42 male to c-mount www.ebay.com/itm/220890093889 and screw the 4/3 to M42 and M42 to c-mount together for a safe connection.

[Ichthyophthirius]

Your most economical solution is to buy a camera adapter with a 2x relay lens.
The quality may not be equivalent to an Olympus Photo Eyepiece but is more than adequate for many microscopist and 1/3 the cost.

Hi, have you used the adapter yourself with good results? All the reviews I've seen are negative. The adapter doesn't correct for the Olympus-specific colour compensation, and the adapter isn't even capable of producing a flat image. This review shows the problems: http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 688097ff32

Regards, Ichthy

[The QCC]

I use this adapter for a Canon 1100D and sometimes with a Canon 5D MkII


These two images were taken with the 2x camera adapter.
Peridotite Plane Polarized light, 2x obj.


Peridotite Crossed polars, 2x obj.

[allelopath]

I have the adapter suggested by QCC. Here is first photo
http://imgur.com/a/5j2Qn

You can see the setup here:
http://imgur.com/a/CniJZ
Conveniently, the LCD on the E-3 (upper left of the photo) pivots such that I can look into the eyepiece and see the LCD from the same position.