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My Studio Macro Rig, A Project and Work in Progress
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Pau
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Joined: 20 Jan 2010
Posts: 4842
Location: Valencia, Spain

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rylee Isitt wrote:
I've been looking for a good copy stand for nearly two years

Rylee,
Perhaps you don't need an of the shelf stand, there are many approaches to do this work posted in this fora (as you probably know)
A very good compilation:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7298
don't miss the links inside this thread
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=55311#55311

About the vibrations if the camera and subject are rigidily clamped there are more chances to suffer camera induced vibration
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Rylee Isitt



Joined: 13 Apr 2012
Posts: 475
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NikonUser's setup is similar to what I might end up doing with long Arca rails.

But at the moment, I'm working on something more similar to Charles Krebs' free-standing setup. It's an approach that can start humble and be built up if needed.

A off the shelf stand is just a nice-to-have. I'll keep looking, but not finding it isn't going to be a huge deal.
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psychoanalyst_god



Joined: 18 Apr 2010
Posts: 23
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA

PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Craig Gerard wrote:
Avi wrote:
But I can't seem to find 1/4-20 male-male adapters.
Are you referring to these? (they are available in various lengths)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300699439935

There is also this option but you will require an additional AS clamp with the long shaft: (check the depth on the 1/4-20 holes on the 430. Some models have shallow holes and require a shorter bolt than those supplied with the adapter).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330661487331

One of these bidirectional AS plates work well with the PB-4 (the ridge prevents 'twist'):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230721489879


Craig


Hi Craig,

Thanks!

So I would essentially need the two parts above (the adapter and the AS plate) as well as an AS clamp?

So it would be (top to bottom): PB4-AS plate-AS clamp-newport adapter-Newport430?

And I need to verify with the seller if the adapter would be compatible with the Newport 430. The ad specifically mentions model 423.

Thanks.

avi
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Craig Gerard



Joined: 01 May 2010
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Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So it would be (top to bottom): PB4-AS plate-AS clamp-newport adapter-Newport430?

Yes, that is correct. If you were using an AS clamp outfitted tripod head the addition of an AS plate to the base of the Newport stage would complete the adaptation.

Also need to clarify, do you have the M-430 (M=metric) or the 430? Do 1/4-20 screws attach to the stage without any problem?

The Hejnar Photo adapter plate is compatible with most Newport stages. The important feature to note is the center distance between holes. Those distances do not change with Newport's lineup. All such stages I own have a large number of holes spaced @ 1" centers to oneanother.
http://www.hejnarphoto.com/ebay/pictures/N423/N423_drawing.jpg

The reason I mention that particular AS plate is it will fit the PB-4, has a ridge for 'anti twist' and is bidirectional.

You may need shorter screws when attaching the Hejnar Photo Newport adapter to the 430. Some of the Newport stages including those that use cross rollar bearings as opposed to ballbearings do not have sufficient depth of thread for attaching the adapter using the screws that come supplied. You would need shorter screws. The depth of the threaded hole is easily measured by putting a match in the hole, marking the depth on the match and then measuring. Add a few mm for the adapter plate. Hejnar Photo can supply screws compatible with your Newport Stage.

If ordering the AS clamp, ask the seller about the screws which come supplied with the AS clamp. You need all three screws, not just the center 1/4-20.




Craig
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psychoanalyst_god



Joined: 18 Apr 2010
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Location: Atlanta, GA, USA

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to attach the PB4 to the Newport stage using 1/4-20 headless screws. Works quite well and holds the setup pretty firmly.

The AS option would have been nice, but my macro setup has sucked me dry (financially) already and I did not want to spend any further!Smile



Sorry for the poor resolution. The iPad2 camera is the only other digital camera I have. More pictures can be seen here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/smiling_buddha/sets/72157629749550294/

Now to start chasing the critters!

Thanks.

Avi
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Craig Gerard



Joined: 01 May 2010
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rylee Isitt wrote:
NikonUser's setup is similar to what I might end up doing with long Arca rails.

But at the moment, I'm working on something more similar to Charles Krebs' free-standing setup. It's an approach that can start humble and be built up if needed.

A off the shelf stand is just a nice-to-have. I'll keep looking, but not finding it isn't going to be a huge deal.

Regarding long rails. Newport make rails with good dovetails, much wider than the AS rails and available in various lengths. Search for Newport PRL. The rails are designed for connection to optical breadboards.
Platforms or carriers attach to the rails (Newport PRC-3) and these can be positioned at any point along the rail. The PRC-3 carriers provide connectivity via 1/4-20 threaded holes. Newport PRX Indexing Blocks make good end stops for the rails, but can also be used for....indexing. The PRL rails and PRC combo is intended for course positioning, linear translation stages are intended to provide 'fine' positioning.

I've used the above components to build a new setup which has a number of features, including horizontal, vertical and tilt camera assembly positioning capabilities. I'm intending to upload specific details in a separate thread. Currently test driving and finalising some components; but wanted to mention the Newport rails and associated attachments as they are relevant to the direction of this discussion.

Quote:
The PRL-24 Precision Dovetail Rail is an easy to use 24 inch rail compatible with PRC Series Carriers. The rail/carrier system is designed to provide maximum versatility in minimum table space. The PRL-24 is compatible with English or metric table hole patterns. It is made from precision-machined anodized aluminum for excellent linearity and smooth carrier translation. The compatible PRC Series carriers are also easy to use and may be removed or installed at any point on the PRL-24 rail. The aluminum carriers ride on extra-hard polymer pads, selected for low friction, resistance to cold flow, and long life. The overall nominal height of a carrier mounted on to a rail is 1.256 in. (31.9 mm). Convenient thumb-adjust lock knobs securely clamp the carriers in place anywhere on the rail.

http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/newportcorp/resource2011/#/964

Craig
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Chris S.
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd concur with Craig's advice. While Arca-Swiss-style fittings are hugely useful in making our rigs modular, there are better alternatives to using a long A-S style rail for rough camera placement in a studio setup. I speak from experience—if you check the "Bratcam" link in my signature, you'll see that I used A-S style rails to rough-in the camera placement. The first iteration used a fairly long A-S rail; the second, an even longer, thicker, custom-made rail by Chris Hejnar. These rails did work—they are very nice pieces of equipment. But for this particular job, it turns out that there are better alternatives.

The Newport rails that Craig mentioned look very good. For another approach, I (just yesterday) replaced my long A-S rail with a 4-inch wide Velmex UniSlide with the Rapid Advance feature. Upon using it, my impression was, "Where has this been all my life?" (By the way, it was a suggestion from Craig that got me looking at replacing my long A-S rail with a Velmex unit—as usual, he was right on the money.)

Like Craig, I find myself with something I intend to post out eventually—but am also in the test-driving stage. That said, my first test was a 100x stack under continuous light, which turned out decently and with far less hassle than before—so my initial impression is positive.

On another note, are we taking Rich's documentation of his interesting rig off on a tangent? If so, perhaps we should start another thread.

Cheers,

--Chris
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Craig Gerard



Joined: 01 May 2010
Posts: 2877
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris S. wrote:
On another note, are we taking Rich's documentation of his interesting rig off on a tangent? If so, perhaps we should start another thread.

Chris,
That's one for Rich to call, but I share your concerns; like yourself, I tried to include some thoughts in summary without intending to digress too far from Rich's ongoing project. Rich did mention earlier in the thread he had another Velmex unit he was considering incorporating, so your comments are timely. Rylee was asking about rails, so I felt it was an appropriate time to offer some input regarding other possible options.

I recently mentioned, in a separate thread, a near disaster with a 1/4-20 on the Nikon PF-4 Copy/Repro stand and keep looking at the Novoflex stand in Rich's setup with concern wondering if it may possibly be at risk of overloading when in an upright position.

Quote:
I was intending to put up a report on a bad experience I recently had with a 1/4-20. Thankfully, the problem was spotted before disaster; in brief, the 1/4-20 threaded rod was pulling away from the large plastic knob, both of which were only connected by a thin, internal pin.



Craig
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MiB



Joined: 18 Dec 2012
Posts: 64
Location: Vienna

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:27 pm    Post subject: screws used for Olympus BHMJ Reply with quote

Richard,

Could you tell me which screws you have used for the Olympus BHMJ focusing block (4 screws on the rail; 1 screw on the back that holds the rod)?

I bought a BHJM focusing block, but do not know which kind of screws I could use and I don´t want to destroy the block by trial and error;
I guess they are metric;

Many thanks,
Michael
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Rylee Isitt



Joined: 13 Apr 2012
Posts: 475
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MiB,

On my two BHMJs, the four smaller screws on the moving platform are M3x0.5 socket head cap screws.

The one on the back is M6 on one of my blocks, and 1/4-20 on the other... the one using M6 appears to be the original, while the other block has been modified.
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naturephoto1



Joined: 13 Nov 2011
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Location: Breinigsville, PA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry,

I took a hiatus from the site. As to the rear screw for the BHMJ Focus Block that I received from Chris S. I believe that the screw to attach to the post is a 1/4-20 screw. I would have to check the other screws. But, I don't have a gauge to check them.

Rich
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MiB



Joined: 18 Dec 2012
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Location: Vienna

PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for your prompt answers!!!

Tomorrow I will go and buy the screws. It would make sense if they are metric, because Japan has the metric system. Now I can write the possible screw sizes down and show them (I don´t really speak Japanese). Hopefully I´m allowed to test them in the shop and hopefully they have long ones because I want to mount it to wooden parts (horizontally);
The screw on the back will go through the base plate and on the slider there will be mounted some wood to screw a Manfrotto 357 Pro Quick Release Adapter onto the wood.

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Michael
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naturephoto1



Joined: 13 Nov 2011
Posts: 509
Location: Breinigsville, PA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MiB wrote:
Many thanks for your prompt answers!!!

Tomorrow I will go and buy the screws. It would make sense if they are metric, because Japan has the metric system. Now I can write the possible screw sizes down and show them (I don´t really speak Japanese). Hopefully I´m allowed to test them in the shop and hopefully they have long ones because I want to mount it to wooden parts (horizontally);
The screw on the back will go through the base plate and on the slider there will be mounted some wood to screw a Manfrotto 357 Pro Quick Release Adapter onto the wood.

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Michael


Michael,

As we have found though the rear screw can vary from unit to unit. I would suggest that you bring the BHMJ Focus Block with you to confirm the fit.

Rich
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Last edited by naturephoto1 on Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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MiB



Joined: 18 Dec 2012
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Location: Vienna

PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich,

I had the Block with me and it was M3 and M6 screws;already have my screws and try to build a fixed rig now;

Many thanks again for your help!
Michael
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