FAQ: How can I hook a microscope objective to my camera?

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Moderators: ChrisR, Chris S., Pau, rjlittlefield

Pau
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Post by Pau »

Yes, I forgot about live view (my camera is a 20d that has not it). With a 50d liveview is fine except in M mode where it meters OK but the live image is dark (someone did comment in the forum that it will work fine if you disable the simulated exposition mode). I think that Rebel series only have simulated exp. mode.
Both 20d and 50d do eTTL flash OK without chip.
Pau

ChrisLilley
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Post by ChrisLilley »

Given the various discussions about exposure, chipped adapters, and camera systems I am coming to the conclusion that this aspect is complex and would, if developed, obscure the central point of this FAQ.

So I withdraw my earlier suggestion to address it here. Instead, I think it merits its own FAQ on metering in photomacrography. Then, this FAQ should merely say 'be sure that the lens you have chosen gives you metering, flash capability and (if applicable) live view on your camera'. And, after that other FAQ is written, this one could be once more edited to link there for further details.

ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

Good post :D - a couple of comments:
I get horrible flare from my "Beljan" conical adapter, it has to be flock-lined to be usable. I believe AndrewC wrote a post about that. The flat disc adapter doesn't have the problem.

Covering 24 x 26mm frame with the infinite set-up isn't as straightforward as I think is implied. I don't posess a 200mm lens which does that, though 300mms are OK for higher magnification, and a few 135mm primes for lower. Zooms only ever seem to work very near the long end, many don't work at all..

The infinite set-up is much harder to hold steady than a finite objective on a bellows, expecially with long camera lenses.

Edit ::
I now have a Manual focus Nikkor 200mm f/4 which works well with some infinite lenses on a full frame camera. They're also quite solidly made, and sell for around $100 to £100. They aren't huge but really would benefit from a supporting tripod collar. I expect to be able to find one, or line a larger one with hard rubber. It also works well on a Canon with a normal adapter. Though not the latest design it still rates "Very Good" as a telephoto. 52mm filter thread.
Last edited by ChrisR on Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:23 am, edited 2 times in total.

ChrisLilley
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Post by ChrisLilley »

ChrisR wrote:Good post :D - a couple of comments:
I get horrible flare from my "Beljan" conical adapter, it has to be flock-lined to be usable. I believe AndrewC wrote a post about that. The flat disc adapter doesn't have the problem.
I got the same with my jinfinance cone. I flocked the inside with protostar light trap.

I also plan to do the same with my flat adapter.

soldevilla
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Post by soldevilla »

Two notes:

When you say x10 magnification at the beginning of this post, what magnification on the chip is achieved? If I want to photograph 3mm FOV with my 350D I need x10 on the chip, more or less ...

About the flares, all surfaces behave a bit like a mirror when the light is almost parallel to the surface. I have found a great and inexpensive material to avoid reflection, but I do not know if I am able to explain it in English ...

Here in Spain, to waterproof terraces of houses we use a black butyl sheet 1 mm thick, with an etched surface. I have several remains and I cut a piece, rolled up and introduce it into the tubes. The result is absolutely great. And do not mess the lenses with "hairs" like the velvet sheet.

Reflexions inside the optical tube before butyl sheet...

Image

ChrisLilley
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Post by ChrisLilley »

soldevilla wrote: When you say x10 magnification at the beginning of this post, what magnification on the chip is achieved? If I want to photograph 3mm FOV with my 350D I need x10 on the chip, more or less ...
10x. Magnification is strictly geometric, size on the sensor (or film) compared to size of the object. Of course there will be additional magnification when the image is actually displayed on a screen, or printed, but this is not taken into account when reporting the magnification.

Which can be a problem, because some older lenses (Zeiss, Leica, Nikon) with high rated magnifications (20x, 50x) can give poor results on modern equipment. They were intended for use on medium format film, with little subsequent magnification after the film was developed.
soldevilla wrote: About the flares, all surfaces behave a bit like a mirror when the light is almost parallel to the surface. I have found a great and inexpensive material to avoid reflection, but I do not know if I am able to explain it in English ...

Here in Spain, to waterproof terraces of houses we use a black butyl sheet 1 mm thick, with an etched surface. I have several remains and I cut a piece, rolled up and introduce it into the tubes. The result is absolutely great. And do not mess the lenses with "hairs" like the velvet sheet.

Reflexions inside the optical tube before butyl sheet...

Image
An interesting suggestion (and well explained). I think in the UK this is called tarpaper.

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

Flare is a very real concern not only due to interior adapter surfaces, but also the very shiny ring on the outer edge of many objectives. This needs to be addressed as well:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... php?t=9758

Two products that are always good to have on hand:

http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm

And Krylon Camouflage Black (Product # 4290)
Krylon Ultra-Flat Black used to be the best flat black around, but they changed the "formula" :cry: and now call it simply Flat Black, and it is not as good for reducing reflections. This new "Chamouflage Black" is the best I've found since that change.

ChrisLilley
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Post by ChrisLilley »

Any alternative suggestions for the matt black? Krylon list a number of online retailers on their site; on all but one, a search on gave no results. The one positive result at ThePaintStore.com had a big red warning This Item Can NOT Be Shipped Internationally. Also, as a pressurised aerosol, it can't be put in carry-on or checked luggage so buying in the US and taking it home is also an issue.

Its also on amazon.com and they would ship it, apparently, but

Items: $4.47
Shipping & Handling: $45.35

Sylvain
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Re: FAQ: How can I hook a microscope objective to my camera?

Post by Sylvain »

rjlittlefield wrote: Here are the components that go into this setup:
Image

B: a mechanical adapter from the "RMS" thread of the objective to a standard M42x1 Pentax screw thread
Where to find part B ?
I found something looking identical from Beljan but this was RMS to T2.
Does somebody have the email adress of this company ?
This should be working as well probably working towards a Nikon D90 body.

Craig Gerard
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Post by Craig Gerard »

If the Beljan cones are available I'd recommend purchasing one.

The jinfinance RMS to M42 cone can be found at link below:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RMS-Thread-M42- ... 0352400700

Nikon M42 adapters are easy to find on eBay, so too Nikon T2 adapters.

Does this information answer your question?


Craig
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"

Pau
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Post by Pau »

Be aware of the ChrisR post about that this cone adapters may induce flare and need to be flocked with light absorbing materials Protostar or a circular stop.
Last edited by Pau on Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pau

Sylvain
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:08 am

Post by Sylvain »

Craig Gerard wrote:If the Beljan cones are available I'd recommend purchasing one.

The jinfinance RMS to M42 cone can be found at link below:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RMS-Thread-M42- ... 0352400700

Nikon M42 adapters are easy to find on eBay, so too Nikon T2 adapters.

Does this information answer your question?


Craig
Looks good ! Thank you.
Why still to give the impression of preference to Beljan ?
I am completely new in this topic and all those different adapters are like a jungle.

Craig Gerard
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Post by Craig Gerard »

Sylvain,

The Beljan has a more refined design and some people prefer the T2 thread; but the RMS to M42 is just as good and more readily available.

Both cones do introduce internal flare and this should be controlled, as Pau mentioned, using a light trap material like Protostar, a good quality mat black paint or by other methods. We can help you address the flare issue.



Craig
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"

Sylvain
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:08 am

Post by Sylvain »

Craig Gerard wrote:Sylvain,
The Beljan has a more refined design and some people prefer the T2 thread; but the RMS to M42 is just as good and more readily available.
Both cones do introduce internal flare and this should be controlled, as Pau mentioned, using a light trap material like Protostar, a good quality mat black paint or by other methods. We can help you address the flare issue.
Craig
Does somebody have photograph showing such flare
And if possible also the result after control with such material to show the difference.

Sylvain
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Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:08 am

Re: FAQ: How can I hook a microscope objective to my camera?

Post by Sylvain »

Image

How crucial is it to have exactly 150 mm ?
I already found the objective and it is on its way to Belgium. :D

I can buy the cone shaped adapter and extension tubes.
It seems that the distance I have is 146.5 mm with these parts.

I am not taking in account the "chipped" adapter that accepts M42x1 threaded optics on the lens side, and presents an interface to the camera.
It seems that for Nikon this is less suitable and not really needed.

To me it looks OK, but as explained I am brand new in this & would like to receive confirmation that it is indeed the way to go.

Thank you for a quick reply.

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