I am using very basic stuff at the moment-a Lolam Russian instrument that I got relatively inexpensive while at uni many years ago. The camera is a Nikon D300s and mounting stuff I have fabricated.
New to digital photomicrography
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georgetsmurf
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New to digital photomicrography
Hi everyone. I have done some photomicrography for research papers in the past but never really got around to looking at the suject seriously. I am now having a go. I will continue to experiment and see what happens.
I am using very basic stuff at the moment-a Lolam Russian instrument that I got relatively inexpensive while at uni many years ago. The camera is a Nikon D300s and mounting stuff I have fabricated.
I am using very basic stuff at the moment-a Lolam Russian instrument that I got relatively inexpensive while at uni many years ago. The camera is a Nikon D300s and mounting stuff I have fabricated.
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Craig Gerard
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rjlittlefield
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georgetsmurf
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georgetsmurf
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These images were from a camera (Nikon D300S) coupled directly to the microscope. The microscope used was a Russian LOMO-Biolam using direct-from-above dichroic lighting (about 40 degree off horizontal). The objective in this case also a Russian one. For my more recent post on Depth of Field I used a Nikon 1970's polarising microscope without polarising equipment mounted and with Nikon objective with same lighting. I also placed a curved white card directly behind the objective to reflect light back and reduce harsh sadows. I have not yet experimented with flash as my flash equipment is not available at my current address, however I will be doing that in the new year. I have heard about Photo Stacking and Zerene got a mention. Would be interested to know about that. Cheers George.rjlittlefield wrote:These images look good -- sharp and no obvious CA (chromatic aberration, color fringes).
Next step: focus stacking.
I am curious about your equipment. Are you using flash illumination or continuous? How do you have your camera coupled to your scope?
--Rik
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rjlittlefield
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George,
I can tell you about Zerene Stacker. I'm the fellow who wrote that one, after I got tired of wrestling with the other packages.
I suggest poking through the online documentation, starting at http://zerenesystems.com/stacker/. There are several tutorials. For microscopy, a good way to start is to just accept all the defaults and use the PMax method. After you have some practice, you may want to adjust some of the alignment controls and use DMap or some combination via retouching.
As I commented in your other post about DOF, there really is no substitute for focus stacking in this regime. If you try to get sufficient DOF by stopping down, you'll lose too much sharpness to be happy.
Given that you're using a Nikon, you'll probably get better sharpness at the pixel level after your flash equipment arrives. The more recent Canon DSLRs have a clever way to make exposures with essentially no vibration, but Nikon hasn't picked up on that trick yet.
--Rik
I can tell you about Zerene Stacker. I'm the fellow who wrote that one, after I got tired of wrestling with the other packages.
I suggest poking through the online documentation, starting at http://zerenesystems.com/stacker/. There are several tutorials. For microscopy, a good way to start is to just accept all the defaults and use the PMax method. After you have some practice, you may want to adjust some of the alignment controls and use DMap or some combination via retouching.
As I commented in your other post about DOF, there really is no substitute for focus stacking in this regime. If you try to get sufficient DOF by stopping down, you'll lose too much sharpness to be happy.
Given that you're using a Nikon, you'll probably get better sharpness at the pixel level after your flash equipment arrives. The more recent Canon DSLRs have a clever way to make exposures with essentially no vibration, but Nikon hasn't picked up on that trick yet.
--Rik