Zerene is amazing

[Simon W]

Just downloaded the demo Rik, it is very easy to use (but I think rather challenging to Master).

As usual this won't mean much to you pros, but I was amazed at how much the stacking adds to the detail of a formerly fuzzy image. Started playing with editing, quite intriguing to see some of the artefacts and shadows, but it'll take me awhile to rewatch the videos. Not sure what the streaks are to the lower-right, maybe dust? I'll find out next image! Easy enough to stamp them out though.

So thankyou Rik for this great tool, I'll be buying!


Sugar, taken through 10x eyepiece, 20x objective, homemade oblique lighting, ISO 100, stack of 36

Ver 2 after Rik's suggestions and my removing 2 out of focus images that may have been exacerbating the fuzzy look. Still not great, but I think it's a 'better' starting image, esp. the lower left and those spots on the right aren't diverging. I did darken & play with the first image a bit, so in my opinion the second is a better starting point.

[Craig Gerard]

Simon,

The BH2-TR30 head has three settings (the rod on the right-hand side). If you are shooting these images through a viewing eyepiece do you have the 'rod' pushed in, the other eyepiece masked or shielded from the room lights or ambient and the photo-eyepiece masked? Something is taxing your contrast. My guess is extraneous light.

Also keep in mind that the 20X SPlan Achromat is expecting a cover-glass.

Those 'streaks' could be dust on the sensor or debris on the background, either way, not too much to worry about from what I can see here; but if not attended to they can get rather intense over time and can become a real concern when focus stacking.

Have you attached the Adapter L to the trinoc port? What is the distance from the camera mount of the adapter to the start of the NFK?


Craig

[rjlittlefield]

Simon,

Thank you for the kind words.

The four dark streaks at lower right could be dust in the sensor or optics, but in that case it's a little odd that they're not almost perfectly parallel given that they are very close together. I suggest to explore the issue using the methods described in the Zerene Stacker FAQ for detecting movement. If they are dust, then the non-parallel nature of the tracks suggests that you might want to tweak the alignment options. For high mag microscopy, it often works best to turn off both Rotation and Scale. You might try also turning off X and Y shift, since I think the BH focus mechanism should be moving straight along the optical axis. And finally you might try turning off Brightness correction as well. That can affect your contrast also, particularly if the ends of the stack happen to be low contrast because most everything is out of focus.

Hope this helps!

--Rik

[Simon W]

Simon,

The BH2-TR30 head has three settings (the rod on the right-hand side). If you are shooting these images through a viewing eyepiece do you have the 'rod' pushed in, the other eyepiece masked or shielded from the room lights or ambient and the photo-eyepiece masked? Something is taxing your contrast. My guess is extraneous light.

Also keep in mind that the 20X SPlan Achromat is expecting a cover-glass.

Those 'streaks' could be dust on the sensor or debris on the background, either way, not too much to worry about from what I can see here; but if not attended to they can get rather intense over time and can become a real concern when focus stacking.

Have you attached the Adapter L to the trinoc port? What is the distance from the camera mount of the adapter to the start of the NFK?

Craig

Craig, yes I had the split pushed right in for 100% eyepiece. I should have made it clearer this was really just a test shot for Zerene, I didn't intend it to be perfect. You're observant though, I'm sure I took the pic in a fairly bright room, and as these are only quick test shots, certainly no tape/light spill protection. I'll save my serious attempts for when the Canon to M adapter comes.

Finally got around to attaching that L adapter, as I said it's mint and looks nice:



Did a quick, simple test of the focus situation, was able to just leave the SLR body on the M fitting, with no adapter, just don't knock it!

At all mags, the camera image was perfectly focussed with the eyepieces, I'm very happy! To take this image of a kitchen sponge, I used my $30 1000 lumen LED torch, it seem very effective for above objective lighting. A cheap small tripod now needed to hold it steady:



Contrast better.

so not happy with the sensor, I can spot a few items that'll need cleaning. Oh god, more questions, I'll have to google now for sensor cleaning. How much does an average white-room cost?

[Simon W]

Simon,

Thank you for the kind words.

The four dark streaks at lower right could be dust in the sensor or optics, but in that case it's a little odd that they're not almost perfectly parallel given that they are very close together. I suggest to explore the issue using the methods described in the Zerene Stacker FAQ for detecting movement. If they are dust, then the non-parallel nature of the tracks suggests that you might want to tweak the alignment options. For high mag microscopy, it often works best to turn off both Rotation and Scale. You might try also turning off X and Y shift, since I think the BH focus mechanism should be moving straight along the optical axis. And finally you might try turning off Brightness correction as well. That can affect your contrast also, particularly if the ends of the stack happen to be low contrast because most everything is out of focus.

Hope this helps!

--Rik

Thank YOU for your suggestions and the great program.

Ok I'll try all these suggestions in my next round. I suspect I'll spend more time with Zerene and photoshop than the scope! But still amazing, to see such clear images when, I spose, they were impossible previously.

[Simon W]

reprocessed zerene image posted to the top of this thread for comparison. I think your suggestions worked Rik, maybe not fixing the atrocious light issue, but other items have improved. My homemade oblique patch probably doesn't help the quality, but I'll find out for sure once the SLR is properly mounted.

[Pau]

At all mags, the camera image was perfectly focussed with the eyepieces, I'm very happy! To take this image of a kitchen sponge, I used my $30 1000 lumen LED torch, it seem very effective for above objective lighting. A cheap small tripod now needed to hold it steady:

Well, because your L adapter has a Olympues OM bajonet mount, I think all you need is a OM to EOS adapter to couple the camera to the microscope (it's easy to find and inexpensive on eBay). No need of tripod.
If you use Live View Silent mode you likely aren't going to have vibration issues.
And if you theter the camera to the computer via USB and run Canon Utilities you can check focus and control the camere from the computer screen

[Pau]

At all mags, the camera image was perfectly focussed with the eyepieces, I'm very happy! To take this image of a kitchen sponge, I used my $30 1000 lumen LED torch, it seem very effective for above objective lighting. A cheap small tripod now needed to hold it steady:

Well, because your L adapter has a Olympus OM bajonet mount, I think all you need is a OM to EOS adapter to couple the camera to the microscope (it's easy to find and inexpensive on eBay). No need of tripod.
If you use Live View Silent mode you likely aren't going to have vibration issues.
And if you theter the camera to the computer via USB and run Canon Utilities you can check focus and control the camere from the computer screen

[Simon W]

Sorry Pau, I meant the tripod for the torch, yes the L adapter will hold my cam real steady I hope.