


Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Unfortunately no, i accidentally deleted the files when making room on my hard drive! Luckily there are tons of lichen everywhere right now so I’ll try to find some different textures to photograph.rjlittlefield wrote: ↑Wed Mar 02, 2022 1:24 pmGood job with the stereo!
Any chance of doing the other two stacks also?![]()
--Rik
(BTW, there was a duplicate of this thread, so I deleted the other copy. The duplication was probably caused by some issues we've been having with server connectivity.)
How did I forget I made that one first! I didn’t like how it turned out because I didn’t include any background in the photo, I also forgot to crop before doing the stereo as wellSym P. le wrote: ↑Wed Mar 02, 2022 4:41 pmThere is another stereo on Flickr but it could be trimmed down in width.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/134685632 ... ateposted/
If you mean the pollen image that’s white and orange, I’ll check if I still have the files to make a stereo version. It was 308 total photos so it’ll take quite a while to process. If anyone is familiar with the process in zerene, how many version should I have zerene make for me to select from? I might be having it make too many but I’m not sure what everyone else does
I wrote Zerene Stacker and I make stereo from almost every stack I shoot. Here is what I recently wrote about the process of making stereo:If anyone is familiar with the process in zerene, how many version should I have zerene make for me to select from? I might be having it make too many but I’m not sure what everyone else does
After I make a stereo pair in Zerene Stacker, I run that through StereoPhoto Maker to push the depth back as needed for pleasant viewing. Then I crop in StereoPhoto Maker, sharpen and adjust contrast in Photoshop, and use Photoshop to add a properly contrasting frame to help with the side-by-side fusion.The method described by Pau, stepping shift from -5% to +5%, works well even when I don't know values for magnification and step size. It is the method that I used to use all the time.
However, what I do now for most studio stacks is to use the Stereo Calculator, described at https://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker/d ... wing_angle . That way I just enter values for sensor size, magnification, step size, number of frames, and a desired viewing angle, and the calculator crunches the numbers to come up with the corresponding percent shift. Typically I use plus and minus the shift value for 4 degrees angle off axis. That gives me 8 degrees between eyes, which corresponds to what a typical stereo microscope would give.
For some flattish subjects I increase the shift value so as to accentuate depth, and in case of troublesome subjects sometimes I decrease the shift value to reduce stacking artifacts. But most of the time I'm happy with what the calculator gives for +-4 degrees.
Ah ok, thanks for all the info! I just checked and I don’t have the original images to create a new stereo image of it, but I’ll make some with the new images I take. And I was using a value of +-4% for the stereo images which I think worked well toorjlittlefield wrote: ↑Wed Mar 02, 2022 6:14 pmI wrote Zerene Stacker and I make stereo from almost every stack I shoot. Here is what I recently wrote about the process of making stereo:If anyone is familiar with the process in zerene, how many version should I have zerene make for me to select from? I might be having it make too many but I’m not sure what everyone else does
After I make a stereo pair in Zerene Stacker, I run that through StereoPhoto Maker to push the depth back as needed for pleasant viewing. Then I crop in StereoPhoto Maker, sharpen and adjust contrast in Photoshop, and use Photoshop to add a properly contrasting frame to help with the side-by-side fusion.The method described by Pau, stepping shift from -5% to +5%, works well even when I don't know values for magnification and step size. It is the method that I used to use all the time.
However, what I do now for most studio stacks is to use the Stereo Calculator, described at https://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker/d ... wing_angle . That way I just enter values for sensor size, magnification, step size, number of frames, and a desired viewing angle, and the calculator crunches the numbers to come up with the corresponding percent shift. Typically I use plus and minus the shift value for 4 degrees angle off axis. That gives me 8 degrees between eyes, which corresponds to what a typical stereo microscope would give.
For some flattish subjects I increase the shift value so as to accentuate depth, and in case of troublesome subjects sometimes I decrease the shift value to reduce stacking artifacts. But most of the time I'm happy with what the calculator gives for +-4 degrees.
--Rik
Quite possibly you were not far off 4 degrees.Biollantefan54 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 02, 2022 7:13 pmI was using a value of +-4% for the stereo images which I think worked well too