Mitutoyo + raynox and olympus omd em 1 mk2 (crop x2)

pu5z3k · Post by **pu5z3k** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:27 am

Hello,
I start using mentioned setup in topic for my studio photography, but i found out that i have problem with photo resolution/sharpness

Now i try two methods (both raynox dcr 150 mounted reversed)
1. lens raynox (tube lens) close as possible to the mitutoyo and 200mm bellows
2. tube lens mounted in distance 50mm between raynox and mitutoyo, and aprox 150 of bellows ?

This way of stacking is okay ? or should i change something in fact that i am using 2x crop factor sensor ?

i am a bit confused thats why i try to find answer.

Maybe the better way is to don't revers the raynox ?
Help pls :-)

SebastianFg · Post by **SebastianFg** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:36 am

Hello,
There can be varoius reasons for unsharp pictures.
The most common one is stability (Vibration issues).
Maybe a picture that shows your setup and one picture that show your issues can help to better understand where the problem is.
Best regards,
Sebastian

pu5z3k · Post by **pu5z3k** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:57 am

no no for 100% we can exclude the vibration problem

the problem for sure is with setting up the tube lens and lenght of the mitutoyo

with sony a7rII problem is less visible
maybe the problem is now that in fact of the crop i have 20x magnification on 10x lens ?
here u can find my diy setup:

horizontal, and vertical

Pau · Post by **Pau** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 9:54 am

pu5z3k wrote: Now i try two methods (both raynox dcr 150 mounted reversed)
1. lens raynox (tube lens) close as possible to the mitutoyo and 200mm bellows
2. tube lens mounted in distance 50mm between raynox and mitutoyo, and aprox 150 of bellows ?

In all cases the best position of the tube lens is the one where it is focused to infinite. Do it without the objective focusing a distant object.
It will be approximately from the center of the tube lens to 208mm of the sensor, not to the camera mount, but better do it focusing.
The distance between the objective and tube lens is less critical although there may be a sweet spot.
There are lots of threads on this subjects at the forum, some relevant ones:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 999#218999
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 556#236556

Lou Jost · Post by **Lou Jost** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 11:40 am

Another great reference is Robert O'Toole's blog post:
https://www.closeuphotography.com/raynox-tube-lens

SebastianFg · Post by **SebastianFg** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 11:52 am

10x magnification stays 10x magnification, doesn’t matter which sensor you use. Just the recorded field of view is smaller using M3/4.
To be honest, your setups look really unstable with lots of possibilities where vibrations can be a real issue. A tube lens does not have to be at infinity (Robert shows that quite impressively)
But always calculate the distance from sensor to tubelens.
Best regards,
Sebastian

ChrisR · Post by **ChrisR** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 3:10 pm

About the only way to be sure that there are no vibrations is to try with short-duration flash and look for a difference.
If you tell us your camera/exposure details, they may be relevant too?
You may be missing something, it's easy to do.

The distance between the objective and the "tube" lens only makes small differences in most cases, visible only in comparisons.

pu5z3k · Post by **pu5z3k** » Fri Mar 15, 2019 1:25 am

ok thanks for your support

and yeah you right i double check the vibration problem and its fine with it
(compared between flash and cont. light) - only difference is in contrast.

Yesterday i order flock but just in case of any light "inside" the setup.

One month ago i play with changing position raynox and is change resolution very visible - thats why now i am confused.

Usually i didnt think about this - but now i just wanna make sure that i use my setup in 100%

i try to catch some insect (propably fly) and will present some test and than you can judge there is problem or not

ChrisR · Post by **ChrisR** » Fri Mar 15, 2019 2:14 am

In that case, I hope you don't have the problem of a bad Mitutoyo, such as here:
Another Mitutoyo returned: www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=244532

mawyatt · Post by **mawyatt** » Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:33 am

Nice setups. Looks like you have 3 Arduino controllers in the box, is this for 3 axis control?

The Wemacro Vertical Stand is a nice vertical stand I use often. I've modified mine to improve the vertical bar stiffness to help with vibration by adding a long bolt and washer. The bolt mounts thru the bottom plate, which has a hole drilled to align with the center of the 40mm square vertical bar. The bar center hole is then threaded for a deep thread for the long bolt. This doesn't cost much and works well.

Best,

iconoclastica · Post by **iconoclastica** » Sat Mar 16, 2019 11:15 am

Is it the consensus now that the Raynox be used in non-reversed position?

Wim

pu5z3k · Post by **pu5z3k** » Sun Mar 17, 2019 4:02 am

thanks for reply,

yes i have also WeMacro table and setup - but i made my own one (much stable in my opinion ofc

)
so in this moment i have two tables

and yes i made my own XYZ arduino subject positioner - i can share pcb making and arduino code

there is keyboard for fast and slow changing position with 3 directions

getting back to the point i did a test what Chris told me to check

and result are smth like that:

so i order black flock to make sure there is no light inside ..

Mitutoyo + raynox and olympus omd em 1 mk2 (crop x2)

Mitutoyo + raynox and olympus omd em 1 mk2 (crop x2)

Re: Mitutoyo + raynox and olympus omd em 1 mk2 (crop x2)