Visual difference between Raynox 150 and Raynox 250

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anvancy
Posts: 387
Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:57 pm
Location: India
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Visual difference between Raynox 150 and Raynox 250

Post by anvancy »

https://youtu.be/KjyRXZ_J3uU

Hi,

This is a short video I prepared to show the difference between the Raynox 150 and Raynox 250. Its kind of a non technical video where I compare the magnification difference when using a Raynox 150 against a 250. The 250 is heavily popular but at times difficult to use. The 150 can bridge this gap.

Recently I have been observing that the raynox 150 is a gem of an achromat to use in the field where the 250 gives too much magnification.

My setup was
Canon 80D
Canon 100mm
Venus Kx 800.

Hope you like this short video.

Thanks

Anvay
www.anvancy.com

Raynox 150|Raynox 250|Raynox MSN 202|Canon MPE 65mm|Canon 100mm.|Wemacro Rail

gardenersassistant
Posts: 190
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 5:21 am
Location: North Somerset, England

Re: Visual difference between Raynox 150 and Raynox 250

Post by gardenersassistant »

anvancy wrote:https://youtu.be/KjyRXZ_J3uU

Hi,

This is a short video I prepared to show the difference between the Raynox 150 and Raynox 250. Its kind of a non technical video where I compare the magnification difference when using a Raynox 150 against a 250. The 250 is heavily popular but at times difficult to use. The 150 can bridge this gap.

Recently I have been observing that the raynox 150 is a gem of an achromat to use in the field where the 250 gives too much magnification.

My setup was
Canon 80D
Canon 100mm
Venus Kx 800.

Hope you like this short video.

Thanks

Anvay
Interesting video.

I started using the 150 and 250 some years ago on 1/2.3" bridge cameras. I then used the 150 and 250 with a 70D and 55-250 STM several years ago for medium-sized and smaller invertebrates, moving from a single flash to the KX800 part way through this period. (I think the KX800 is another excellent piece of kit.) I found the less powerful (2 diopters) Canon 500D better for flowers and for larger invertebrates like butterflies (I tend to go for whole body shots and shots of the subject in its environment, so less magnification is better for that.)

Since then I have used the 150 and 250 (singly, and sometimes stacked, 150+250 or 250+250) and occasionally the more powerful MSN-202 and (hardly ever) MSN-505 on micro four thirds and more up to date 1/2.3" bridge cameras.

I have settled on using a 1/2.3" bridge camera with a 150 most of the time now for invertebrates, and micro four thirds with a macro lens for botanical shots.

Like you I think the Raynox 150 is an excellent and very useful close-up lens, and one that, depending on the magnification they want, a good one for newcomers to close-up/macro to start with, it being easier to use than the 250 because of its longer working distance and its being more forgiving as to the working distance.

(Incidentally, the 150 is 4.8 diopters not 4 diopters as mentioned in the video.)
Nick

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Journey since 2007

Rework and reposts of my images posted in this forum are always welcome, especially if they come with an explanation of what you did and how you did it.

anvancy
Posts: 387
Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:57 pm
Location: India
Contact:

Post by anvancy »

Thanks, Nick.

I also started using the raynox kit on my Fuji S6500FD from 2006/07. At first, I was in a typical mindset that magnification is everything. But slowly as I progressed in my hobby I understood that at those blink of an eye situation the 150 has better efficiency and outcome even if the magnification is less.

Now I use the 150 first for decent magnification and when I know the subject is co-operative, i shift to my MPE.

And yes, the KX-800 is a lovely flash to use.

Anvay
www.anvancy.com

Raynox 150|Raynox 250|Raynox MSN 202|Canon MPE 65mm|Canon 100mm.|Wemacro Rail

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