Flash lighting for macro

[JKT]

Very nice setup!! The mounting of the flashes base and the black manifold are clever, did you make these yourself?

Thanks!

Yes I did. The flash base is just sawed-to-shape plywood, but the manifold I designed and had printed at Shapeways. It would likely work better, if the edges came lower, but I wanted to keep it symmetrical. The top of pin (pinned insect samples) also has to fit under the rim so I can slide the sample in place. The light also allows photgraphing samples up to 120 mm wingspan with 35 mm macro and APS-C camera.

I had many mis-fires with various Yonguno flashes mentioned, some were battery related (I was using Enloops too!), but many were not. Also had an output power variability, again some battery related and some not.

Could that be also due to heating? I don't think I have that many misfires, though power variation does happen. In my case the normal power setting is 1/64 with 3 s pause between flashes. The batteries get warm, but that's all. The flashead doesn't feel even that. Besides, in my case the critical part of the stack is usually relatively short (wings) - anywhere else loosing a picture, won't kill the stack. So for me these suffice.

[mawyatt]

Very nice setup!! The mounting of the flashes base and the black manifold are clever, did you make these yourself?

Thanks!

Yes I did. The flash base is just sawed-to-shape plywood, but the manifold I designed and had printed at Shapeways. It would likely work better, if the edges came lower, but I wanted to keep it symmetrical. The top of pin (pinned insect samples) also has to fit under the rim so I can slide the sample in place. The light also allows photgraphing samples up to 120 mm wingspan with 35 mm macro and APS-C camera.

I had many mis-fires with various Yonguno flashes mentioned, some were battery related (I was using Enloops too!), but many were not. Also had an output power variability, again some battery related and some not.

Could that be also due to heating? I don't think I have that many misfires, though power variation does happen. In my case the normal power setting is 1/64 with 3 s pause between flashes. The batteries get warm, but that's all. The flashead doesn't feel even that. Besides, in my case the critical part of the stack is usually relatively short (wings) - anywhere else loosing a picture, won't kill the stack. So for me these suffice.

Heating could be the cause, but suspected some RF problems (like when microwave oven was on). I needed more power (lots of diffusion) so usually around 1/4~1/8 power and routinely do long stacks (I'm running a ~2000 image S&S Session right now!), so the flashes were really abused. This is not what they are intended to do, so not fault on the flash.

Best,

[Deanimator]

You would do well to follow Mawayatt's advice. I did and got much better results.

After using Amazon Basics manual flashes for a year or so, I recently purchased a couple of Flashpoint R2 studio strobes. Even only using one of them, I'm getting better images. At the same time as I purchased the strobes, I purchased several mounting options. Since I recently built a purpose built macro table, extensible stands mounted on flat metal plates work very well. I have one sitting on the table top directly in front of my macro rig. I have yet to use the modeling light on the strobe. Instead, I use the 300w equivalent CFLs which I use for continuous lighting. I have them mounted on microphone boom arms.

The foam cup diffuser really does work and is highly adaptable. If necessary, you can take several of them, cut them apart and assemble them into a bigger structure.

[dolmadis]

Flashpoint R2 studio strobes.

Calling on those members who are in the UK and Europe and you purchased these where was your source please?


Thanks

John

[Deanimator]

Flashpoint R2 studio strobes.

Calling on those members who are in the UK and Europe and you purchased these where was your source please?


Thanks

John

Unless I'm mistaken, those are rebranded Godox products.