4 Harley
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
4 Harley
Hello everyone,
Inspired by Robert, I have assembled new tube for my LU Plans.
It bases on the Harley clamps:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/49mm-Turn-Sign ... 5t&vxp=mtr
These clamps match to the cheap M42 macro-rings :-)
And the whole tube looks like follows:
This tube has a built in helicoid in order to be able to focus the LSA to the infinity.
The iris has been placed close to the LSA but I don’t know if this is the ideal position.
And installed on the slat looks like that:
BR, ADi
Inspired by Robert, I have assembled new tube for my LU Plans.
It bases on the Harley clamps:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/49mm-Turn-Sign ... 5t&vxp=mtr
These clamps match to the cheap M42 macro-rings :-)
And the whole tube looks like follows:
This tube has a built in helicoid in order to be able to focus the LSA to the infinity.
The iris has been placed close to the LSA but I don’t know if this is the ideal position.
And installed on the slat looks like that:
BR, ADi
Nice construction!
Maybe an independent support for the motor will avoid transmitting its vibration to the camera.
Maybe an independent support for the motor will avoid transmitting its vibration to the camera.
If you want it to stop the system the best position would be as close as possible to the objective. IMO placing it at the tube lens could be useful to cut glare but not to gain DOFThe iris has been placed close to the LSA but I don’t know if this is the ideal position.
Pau
Hello Pau,
Vibrations are good for the cleaning of the sensor :-) but usually I flash on the second curtain.
Yes, the position of the iris is my problem.
I have already tested the iris in some positions but I haven’t realized any advantage
BTW, inside of the tube, between the microscope-lens and the tube-lens I have inserted the flocked light trap from Protostar.
BR, ADi
Vibrations are good for the cleaning of the sensor :-) but usually I flash on the second curtain.
Yes, the position of the iris is my problem.
I have already tested the iris in some positions but I haven’t realized any advantage
BTW, inside of the tube, between the microscope-lens and the tube-lens I have inserted the flocked light trap from Protostar.
BR, ADi
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2017 10:24 am
- Location: Freiberg, Germany
-
- Posts: 3432
- Joined: Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:40 am
- Location: Santa Clara, CA, USA
- Contact:
- rjlittlefield
- Site Admin
- Posts: 23603
- Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:34 am
- Location: Richland, Washington State, USA
- Contact:
A very nice solid setup! Thank you for the link to the clamps.
The iris should be positioned immediately behind the objective, as close to the objective as possible. In that position it can serve to reduce the effective NA of the objective, giving greater DOF although less resolution. This can be useful especially at the end of a stack with a deep subject, by making the far background less blurred so that it remains recognizable. See http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 7644#57644 and the surrounding thread for discussion.
A simple test for whether you have the iris close enough to the objective is to monitor the image brightness while stopping down. If stopping down the iris causes the entire image to darken equally, then the position is OK. If the corners darken more than the center, then the iris is acting partially as a mask and will be less effective. If the center does not darken at all, then it is acting entirely as a mask and will have no effect on DOF. In any of the latter cases, the iris should be moved closer to the objective.
--Rik
The iris should be positioned immediately behind the objective, as close to the objective as possible. In that position it can serve to reduce the effective NA of the objective, giving greater DOF although less resolution. This can be useful especially at the end of a stack with a deep subject, by making the far background less blurred so that it remains recognizable. See http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 7644#57644 and the surrounding thread for discussion.
A simple test for whether you have the iris close enough to the objective is to monitor the image brightness while stopping down. If stopping down the iris causes the entire image to darken equally, then the position is OK. If the corners darken more than the center, then the iris is acting partially as a mask and will be less effective. If the center does not darken at all, then it is acting entirely as a mask and will have no effect on DOF. In any of the latter cases, the iris should be moved closer to the objective.
--Rik
Hello Lou,
Yes, I have already tested the iris close to the microscope-lens.
Unfortunately it hasn’t had any influence on the picture I expected.
Neither increasing of the DOF nor improving of the contrast (only vignetting if closed).
So, I have moved it behind the LSA in order to reduce the reflections.
But I don't have any reflexion at all :-)
BR, ADi
Yes, I have already tested the iris close to the microscope-lens.
Unfortunately it hasn’t had any influence on the picture I expected.
Neither increasing of the DOF nor improving of the contrast (only vignetting if closed).
So, I have moved it behind the LSA in order to reduce the reflections.
But I don't have any reflexion at all :-)
BR, ADi
-
- Posts: 3432
- Joined: Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:40 am
- Location: Santa Clara, CA, USA
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:23 pm
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:23 pm
- Contact:
Hi Adalbert,Adalbert wrote:Hi Ray,
Sorry, I have forgotten to mention it
As you probably can see, there are some white rings between the clamps and the macro-rings.
These are the felt-pads I have stuck to the rings.
You have to choose the thickness you need.
BR, ADi
Nice rings, how do you attach them to the clamps?
Best,
Research is like a treasure hunt, you don't know where to look or what you'll find!
~Mike
~Mike