buying/using a Nikon PB-6 bellows

[fishguy]

Hello,

I am about to purchase a PB-6 bellows but need some additional info. I don't have any experience using one. I have read that a D700 camera can mount directly to the bellows AND that an accessory is required. So which is it? I am starting with a Nikon 60 AFD lens in normal position and I believe this will mount directly as is. Several individuals seem to recommend replacing the tripod mount on the bellows with an arca plate. I would like to do this as I plan to mount the camera/bellows system vertically on a stackshot system. Anyone have recommendations on an arca plate and drilling into the bottom of the bellows?

Are there any other accessories for the bellows that I should look for (for my camera and lens combination)?

If I understand correctly, I set the desired aperture on the lens using the collar, adjust the bellows draw for desired magnification and frame by moving the entire system in relation to the specimen.

Thanks!

[Charles Krebs]

If you haven't seen this it might offer some help:

https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answer ... slr-camera

Do you intend to use electronic flash as your light source? When you put the StackShot on a vertical stand and then add a bellows unit onto that you really have a lot equipment hanging out over the base. Vibration will definitely be a problem if you were to try using a continuous light source. With electronic flash you should be OK. (I would still recommend using rear-curtain sync with a "longish" exposure. Just try to keep the ambient light subdued if possible and make sure it does not register an image when the flash is turned off).

The PB-6 is a fine bellows, but it does use "dovetail" mounts on the two standards and the base. When used horizontally, gravity tends to keep things in place when knobs are loosened and adjustment are made. On a vertical stand you will experience some "sagging" when making adjustments if you loosen the control locking knobs too much. Not a big deal really, but you might also have a look at the older PB-4 bellows that uses circular rails. If you can get one of those for less than the PB-6 it might be worth consideration.

[Chris S.]

Fishguy,

I can tell you with confidence that a Nikon PB-6 bellows will mount perfectly well on a Nikon D700 camera without any need for additional adapter or spacer, as I’ve done it many times. There are reports to the contrary on the Internet, but they are wrong. The key is to use the bellows’ rotational freedom (which kicks in if you depress a tab at the camera end of the bellows) while mounting the bellows. Once mounted, the camera can easily transition between portrait and landscape orientation.

Yes, your Nikon 60mm AF-D lens will mount directly on the front of the bellows (and it’s much better for this than the later AF-S version, which lacks an aperture ring). However, at magnifications greater than 1x, you’ll likely get better results by reversing the 60mm lens. For this, I’d suggest a Nikon BR2A reversing ring, in combination with a 52mm-62mm step-down ring from any decent manufacturer. (Note that this is quite different from a step-up ring.)

Several individuals seem to recommend replacing the tripod mount on the bellows with an arca plate. I would like to do this as I plan to mount the camera/bellows system vertically on a stackshot system. Anyone have recommendations on an arca plate and drilling into the bottom of the bellows?

I definitely recommend mounting your bellows on an Arca-style plate or foot. However, no drilling is required. The bellows’ tripod mount already has a standard ¼”-20 threaded hole that you can bolt the foot to. If I recall correctly, I used to use a plate with an anti-rotational ridge on it, which I liked pretty well. (I can’t lay hands on that mount at the moment so can’t check.

Are there any other accessories for the bellows that I should look for (for my camera and lens combination)?

One that I’d recommend—though it isn’t inexpensive—is a Nikon PB-6E extension set. This was designed to work with the PB-6 bellows, and provide additional extension. I don’t use the added extension very often, but this set comes with a much longer mounting dovetail, with three threaded ¼”-20 holes. This is the base I use with my PB-6 bellows at all times. You can see it illustrated here; in the fourth image down, this base is labeled “I,” while the Arca-style plate is labeled “H.”

Beware that in a quick eBay search just now, the single active listing I saw for a PB-6E has the wrong (shorter) base. It’s a well-illustrated listing, though, and does give provide a good look at the underside of the shorter base, showing why you won’t have to drill it. Item number is 152154608269.

If I understand correctly, I set the desired aperture on the lens using the collar, adjust the bellows draw for desired magnification and frame by moving the entire system in relation to the specimen.

Yep!

--Chris

[fishguy]

Thanks for the information. Charles, I did come across that info from Nikon, just today. Thanks. I plan on using flash. My current set up has the Nikon R1C1 with 3 flash heads around a custom diffuser, which works well. If the total weight of the gear on the copy stand starts to get too excessive I'll remove the lights and put them on stands or arms. The copy stand column (Bessler) is rated for up to 15 lb camera, but once I get all the components I'll look for vibrations and see what can be done, if anything.

Chris, Thanks for the info about the bellows. I'll be sure to try it with the 60 reversed. I have a few Arca plates so I'm sure I can find a suitable fit.

The parts start rolling in in about 1 week and a half. I'll be back once I have a chance to put it together.

[Lou Jost]

I just found my old PB-6 bellows after an absence of 20 years!! I love it. I think I may even be able to oosen the rear standard and attach a StackShot to the camera to do motorized rear-standard focusing to improve certain kinds of stacks.

I also love my 60 AF-D Micro-Nikkor. But as I learned from Rik, there is a trick to gettingthe best resolution out of it (though I know from your earlier post that you have limited time to fiddle when you are working with your fish parasites and you may prefer to just skip this advice). Many people leave the reversed lens focused at infinity, but that's wrong. You are not taking advantage of the lens's close-range correction system when you do that. It should be focused at 1/m where m is the magnification you are achieving. There is a convenient m scale on the lens so you can do this fairly easily. If you want to be more exact, you can adjust lens flange-to-subject distance so that it is exactly the same as the flange-to-sensor distance on a Nikon camera. Now you will be using the lens as it was designed to be used, with all corrections in play. And this lens is stunningly sharp when used this way.

This same advice applies to almost all modern reversed lenses.

[fishguy]

That is great information Lou! Thanks! I'll have to try it when all my gear arrives. Do you ever use your PB-6 vertically (on a stand or otherwise)? If so any working tips?

[Chris S.]

Per our forum's conventions, this thread likely fits best in "Beginner macro", not "Beginner micro." This is an arbitrary distinction, and nobody can blame Fishguy for posting here. But in our community, we generally reserve "micro" for questions involving traditional microscopes; and "macro" for open, non-traditional assemblies, even if they produce magnifications in the same range as those handled by off-the-shelf-microscopes.

So I'd suggest that I, or any member of the admin team, move the thead after everyone has a chance to see it.

Cheers,

Chris S.

[Lou Jost]

Fishguy, I have just started working with it again after the 20-year hiatus. I'll write something up if there is anything interesting, but I am sure that it will work just fine vertically using flash and a Stackshot.

[fishguy]

Gotcha Chris. I just chose micro because of >1x question. Thanks!