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New to me Zeiss Standard
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Choronzon



Joined: 21 Feb 2010
Posts: 384
Location: Chicago USA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would consider anything more than 1/3rd of the field of view unacceptable. The nosepiece objective mounts being scrambled is the culprit.
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75RR



Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 679
Location: Estepona

PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I would consider anything more than 1/3rd of the field of view unacceptable.

Thanks
Quote:
The nosepiece objective mounts being scrambled is the culprit.

Scrambled?
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Choronzon



Joined: 21 Feb 2010
Posts: 384
Location: Chicago USA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed from the factory alignment
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Ichthyophthirius



Joined: 07 Mar 2013
Posts: 887

PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I agree, 1/3 is acceptable, on the original nosepiece. But if you put the DIC intermediate slider holders in, it can be more. Your Standard tube head is centered by the factory (the two pins next to the large screw!) - so everything should be in its original setting and you don't have to worry.

Zeiss usually performs better than 1/3! There are three things you can do:

- rotate your objectives around the four nosepiece positions until you find the combination that works best
- use very thin pieces of paper (cigarette paper) in between the nosepiece and the objective to achieve parcentricity (means you can't change the objectives all the time)
- carefully check that the top of the objectives and the corresponding plan area on the nosepiece are clean

The top of the objectives and the plan area on the nosepiece are very sensitive surfaces. They are finished with very high precision to achieve parcentricity.

Don't ever use abrasives to clean them as it would damage the surface. I wouldn't use anything harder than a soft cloth.
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75RR



Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 679
Location: Estepona

PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips Ichthy - good to know.
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75RR



Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 679
Location: Estepona

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting closer. Thought I would show my Optovar+Cube and my Camera Stand.
Olympus OM Focusing Rail and Stage, two Magnetic Bases (had to extend the vertical steel bars) and a metal plate for them to grab on to.

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Eddie



Joined: 18 Oct 2012
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's looking good Glen! Is the camera well supported with just the two vertical rods and cross rod?

It looks like you have a 25X Neofluar Pol objective. You know that objective is centerable by twisting the two knurled rings on the objective.
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75RR



Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 679
Location: Estepona

PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
It's looking good Glen!
Thanks.
Quote:
Is the camera well supported with just the two vertical rods and cross rod?
Think it might be alright. The magnetic bases grip very strongly. Still setting things up.
Do you know of a test that will show up excessive vibration?
Quote:
It looks like you have a 25X Neofluar Pol objective. You know that objective is centerable by twisting the two knurled rings on the objective.
Had it for a little while now. It was driving me crazy at first until I figured that out. Am careful now not to move the knurled rings when I put it on and take it off!
Tis my favorite lens now.
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Eddie



Joined: 18 Oct 2012
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure there are ways to see how much vibration you may get with your configuration, but I'm not the one to ask. There are plenty here who would know though.

On the Optovar, I got so frustrated with the hard turning focus ring for the Bertran lens, I started taking it apart but didn't need to go to far.

-First the two screws on the bottom, to remove the whole unit.
-Then loosen the set screw from the lever which controls the ring stops at each power and remove the lever with the ball bearing in the end.
-Then unscrew the center screw which lets you lift out the whole rotating unit, careful not to touch the lenses. I was able to clean between the two rings better by sliding the shim dipped in alcohol between them and also cleaned around the pivot point where the Bertand lense rotates and moves up and down...there was build up green crud there too. I probably could have left them dry but I applied a tiny bit of some light Nye oil on the outter edges of the two rings and worked them back and forth a few times. All the lenses are in their own settings and not part of the focus ring so there is no way the oil can seep into them unless you flood the area. Also a tiny bit of oil from the end of a pin onto the pivot point. Put everything back together and now everything turns and moves like if they were new!
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Ichthyophthirius



Joined: 07 Mar 2013
Posts: 887

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An excellent description of common errors when dealing with the Optovar.

- Irreparable loss of the optics centering (you may have done it, but the MOST important step is not listed in the description)

- Zeiss optics were NOT compatible with alcohol (ethanol) until at least the 1980s. NEVER use ethanol on older Zeiss microscope optics.

- NEVER use oil in the Optovar. It will form fog and smears inside the Optovar optics and over the years on eyepieces and objectives. There are specialist lumbricant greases for that purpose (I think still available from Zeiss)
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Eddie



Joined: 18 Oct 2012
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips Ichthy.
It's not for the faint of heart. All the optics are mounted in their own settings above the two rotating rings and were not disturbed. Alcohol wasn't used anywhere near the optics and neither was the oil. I've use Nye synthetic greases and oils for quite some time and it's probably the best that I have used in lubricating microscopes...probably as good or better than the Zeiss products. The areas that I applied the oil had been oiled or greased before and it had hardened causing the mechanism to not function properly. It needs to be completely removed and relubricated, or it will continue to seize and be difficult to use.
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75RR



Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 679
Location: Estepona

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Eddie,
Quote:
Then loosen the set screw from the lever which controls the ring stops at each power and remove the lever with the ball bearing in the end.

I take it you marked the position and were able to match it accurately afterwards?

Quote:
I'm sure there are ways to see how much vibration you may get with your configuration, but I'm not the one to ask.

While attempting to make a bipod / tripod comparison I realized that the tripod does fit on the trinocular (had assumed it would not), so now have a steadier if more cluttered setup.


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