Hello Guys,
Am considering moving up from the DSLR attached to bellows and Mitotoyo objectives to a Nikon Labophot 2 or Optiphot, second hand of course. I think the Optiphot might be better as objectives will have greater working distance.
But what I really want to know is, if I attach DSLR to an eye piece and can rule out the dreaded vibration will that give me magnification of the objective plus magnification of the eyepiece??? Or do all such devices necessitate removal of the 10x eye piece?
Best wishes,
Bob
From Macro to Micro
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rjlittlefield
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I'm interested in knowing what "moving up" means, when starting with Mitutoyo objectives. If those are M Plan Apo's, you'll find their combination of optical quality and working distance very hard to beat in any competing product.Am considering moving up from the DSLR attached to bellows and Mitotoyo objectives to a Nikon Labophot 2 or Optiphot
What advantages are you hoping to get from the Labophot or Optiphot?
No. Consider two possibilities:But what I really want to know is, if I attach DSLR to an eye piece and can rule out the dreaded vibration will that give me magnification of the objective plus magnification of the eyepiece???
Mode 1. You remove the eyepiece and let the objective (and tube lens if any) project directly onto the camera's sensor. In this mode you get the magnification marked on the objective.
Mode 2. You retain the 10X eyepiece and set up the camera in afocal mode looking through the eyepiece, choosing a focal length on the camera lens so as to match field of view with mode 1. Because the field of view is the same, what you get then is just the magnification marked on the objective. The magnification of the eyepiece and the fractional magnification of the camera lens exactly cancel out, so that all you've accomplished is to relay the image from in front of the eyepiece onto the sensor.
In mode 2, you can tweak around with the eyepiece magnification to make minor changes in the magnification. But if you're thinking that a 10X objective and a 10X eyepiece means 100X on sensor, then no, it's not like that at all.
--Rik
Hello Bob
I use an older Optiphot for a lot of my pictures without a coverslip (and for all of my pictures with a coverslip). I recomend a trinocular tube with a 2,5x lens. That will give you 2.5x the microscope lens magnification eg a 10x will give you 25x on the camera sensor.
Another option is to remove the microscope head and use direct projection. With direct projection a 10x lens gives 10x magnification on the camera sensor. (Note: Some lenses will vignette with direct projection.) If you use a bellows you can change the distance between the microscope lens and the camera. This will give you the freedom to change magnification. (Note: This will affect the working distance of the microscope lens, wich is a problem with lenses with short WD.)
If you buy an Optiphot make sure that the fine focus is functioning.
If you are into focus stacking I recommend attaching a stepper motor to the fine focus.
Regards Jörgen
I use an older Optiphot for a lot of my pictures without a coverslip (and for all of my pictures with a coverslip). I recomend a trinocular tube with a 2,5x lens. That will give you 2.5x the microscope lens magnification eg a 10x will give you 25x on the camera sensor.
Another option is to remove the microscope head and use direct projection. With direct projection a 10x lens gives 10x magnification on the camera sensor. (Note: Some lenses will vignette with direct projection.) If you use a bellows you can change the distance between the microscope lens and the camera. This will give you the freedom to change magnification. (Note: This will affect the working distance of the microscope lens, wich is a problem with lenses with short WD.)
If you buy an Optiphot make sure that the fine focus is functioning.
If you are into focus stacking I recommend attaching a stepper motor to the fine focus.
Regards Jörgen
From macro to micro
Hello Rik,
Many thanks for putting me straight on the magnification issue.
I had seen some photos taken through microscope of tears. Yes, that's right tears and they looked quite fascinating. Realised that mag would be beyond my Mitutoyos and perhaps microscope objectives + photo tube therefore the thoughts on photographing through the eye piece. Now I know that doesn't work!
I did write to the photographer to try and find out what magnification they were taken at but understandably she did not want to pass on that gen.
Hello Joergen,
Many thanks for the info on using the phototube with a 2.5 lens. That I didn't know.
Yes, a stepper motor on the fine focus is great have one from Prior.
Thanks again and Best wishes,
Bob
Many thanks for putting me straight on the magnification issue.
I had seen some photos taken through microscope of tears. Yes, that's right tears and they looked quite fascinating. Realised that mag would be beyond my Mitutoyos and perhaps microscope objectives + photo tube therefore the thoughts on photographing through the eye piece. Now I know that doesn't work!
I did write to the photographer to try and find out what magnification they were taken at but understandably she did not want to pass on that gen.
Hello Joergen,
Many thanks for the info on using the phototube with a 2.5 lens. That I didn't know.
Yes, a stepper motor on the fine focus is great have one from Prior.
Thanks again and Best wishes,
Bob
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rjlittlefield
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Re: From macro to micro
That sounds like a "water droplet microscope" with a catchy marketing spin. See http://laser.physics.sunysb.edu/~scott/liquid-lens/ for some discussion on the physics, and http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/intro/histo.html for a historical discussion.MacroB wrote:I had seen some photos taken through microscope of tears. Yes, that's right tears and they looked quite fascinating.
--Rik