Advice for watch photography

[johan]

Really interesting thread! One thing I'm noticing about the difference between that fine cloudfront shot and all the other pictures is the uniform and unambiguous high key white background. In terms of visual appeal of the shot, I think that has a lot to do with it. It's been a while since I used my light tents but I do recall that was one of the effects of throwing light from flashes all round the tent

[rjlittlefield]

I notice that your image does not show significant reflections from the glass, and I am curious to know why that is.

With coins you specifically want reflections from the flat metal surfaces that are perpendicular to the line of sight.

I believe that is an American approach and is used to highlight features of American coins in manner that matches the USA coin grading system. When Photographing European coins( particularly medieval and gold) I try to avoid such reflections ( I dislike them)

OK, that would explain the absence of reflections from the glass.

So then, I think what's happening in your lighting setup is that the illuminators are aimed so as to strike the white reflector fairly far from the lens, producing bright spots that meet ChrisR's requirement of "think what the angle is of the glass to the camera sensor, and make sure there's NO light hitting the glass from double that angle."

--Rik

[Grahame]

austrokiwi1,
Amazing what you learn on this site.
That was a coin I hadn't heard of before.
For anyone interested here a bit about this unusual New Zealand coin.
http://www.australian-coins.com/coin-ne ... s-5c-mule/

[macroring1]

Thanks again for all the help.

I have ordered a bigger softbox and I am also trying to make a glass enclosure where i will put 1-2 bulbs and put this as a stand, this way light will go from there as well. I was thinking make a square out of glass, put 2 bulbs and seal it, and put a soft diffuse material on top where the watch will go. Is this a good idea?

I found a very nice photo for which I think the author gave its best knowing how difficult it is to make a photo from the face, so he turned it a bit to the side but I guess he exposed it to a lot of light?

http://www.moonwatchonly.com/wp-content ... 012-67.jpg

I like the details and I wonder if he just used a lot of light source to get that effect? Also how would he be able to set the watch in such position, with some holder or something like that?

Thanks again

[Grahame]

Perspex is far easier to work with than glass.
Comes in a variety of thickness and opacity.
Easy to cut with a hacksaw.
Is heat bendable with no more tools than hot water and a hair drier.
Is easy to join with either contact glue or super glue.
If your wanting to make a cube shape have a look in your local 2$ shop or your local equivalent.
Something like a post it note holder might be what you are looking for (just beware they may have a subtle colour cast)
Cheep and no need to muck around creating it ( unless your like me, then the tinkering bit is as much fun as using it)
As always with bulbs heat is a problem, even low power led's give of a surprising amount.

[macroring1]

Grahame you are a life saver, I think that is exactly what I need to make a similar photo, I can see the piece of plastic hidden behind the bracelet on the last photo I added. I am sure they use the same setup.

I've ordered few pieces of this acrylic and I will make some models where I can position the watch as floating object.

I've done more progress here in 6 days using the forum compared to the 16 months of learning by myself.

[macroring1]

After few try outs, I find it very difficult to expose light from the front without the horrible glare, even behind a diffuser.

I am also constrained in terms of space, I have a adjustable desk where all these lights are and I guess my setup is not really working due to the space

I was thinking to buy on of these, they are a lot of money but are they any good? Would something like this eliminate the glare and give consistent good light shots?

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/light ... ccessories

It seems to have 5500K lights all around including the front. I think the only downside is it's small and I can't play too much with the position of the watch, but I guess every possible side will have adequate light inside, much better than making a DUY diffuser from top bottom side which takes 10x the space.

Anybody has any experience with these or to recommend something else? Thanks

[ChrisR]

That seems expensive - I didn't find specs on the lights.
One of these would be a start - ebay 222075899701 40cm cube white light tent.

I think light coming off the glass can only because the angles are wrong, though.

[macroring1]

That seems expensive - I didn't find specs on the lights.
One of these would be a start - ebay 222075899701 40cm cube white light tent.

I think light coming off the glass can only because the angles are wrong, though.

The only spec on the lights I found is this:

3 adjustable fluorescent 5500 k lights; front light, back light and floor light

Now, the cube tent I already have, I put my 5500K bulbs around and that's how I shoot. Problem is the amount of light seems to be inconsistent. The problem I have with a tent like this is very difficult to place diffused light in front of the watch

[Grahame]

Do you have the tent closed on all 5 sides ?
You only want a "hole" to put the front of the lens through with the camera body on the outside.
Are all the lights the same wattage ?
Keep then as far back as possible to let the light cover as much area as possible.
Otherwise if you need to have them close because of space, diffuse the lights.
A couple of layers of Kleenex works well, many ideas for light diffusion on the forum.
A light from each side slightly forward of the watch and one from above the camera should be a reasonable starting point.
You don't want "hot spots" showing on the inside of the tent material when you look inside.
If you have, move the lights back or diffuse more.
Exposure length doesn't matter unless your rig is really vibration prone.
Remember to create your own white balance profile.
Light colour doesn't matter as long as they are all the same kelvin temp.
Actually you can mix colour temp, but that's a different story
Enjoy

[rjlittlefield]

After few try outs, I find it very difficult to expose light from the front without the horrible glare, even behind a diffuser.

I think light coming off the glass can only because the angles are wrong, though.

I want to further emphasize ChrisR's point. You get glare because the glass of the watch acts as a mirror, reflecting some bright area of the environment. The only way to get rid of that glare (while leaving the glass in place) is to make sure that the glass is reflecting a dark area of the environment. Inside a light tent, you may need to insert a piece of black paper or felt for the glass to reflect into the camera.

In my initial reply, near the beginning of this thread, I wrote:

you need light coming from pretty much all around the subject.

I should have clarified that "pretty much all around" must exclude the area reflected by the glass.

--Rik

[Grahame]

A completely different way of looking at it
http://www.thephotoforum.com/threads/wa ... os.411090/

Other thoughts polarising filter

[macroring1]

Other thoughts polarising filter

I just checked prices for my canon 100mm L macro, expensive! Which one should I get?

Something like this?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... r_Pol.html

I see some polarizing filters are 500 bucks... wow

[ChrisR]

I have a some very cheap $5 large Pol filters which came my way - nothing wrong with them! You don't need the ultimate in coatings I expect, nor the really thin mounts for wideangles which cost $$$.

I just stuck a watch under a couple of harsh phone lights at 45º each side - no reflections from the glass, just hotspots on the bezel.

A light tent will still be useful, for those highly polished flattish surfaces, which will reflect you a picture of whatever's there. You may have a hard time avoiding a reflection of the camera/tripod.

[Grahame]

Yep you can empty your wallet of beer vouchers pretty quick with high end filters.
But if your spending good $$ on nice glass why would you put inferior filters in front of it.
To sort of paraphrase Chris R, I'm sure there will be some good quality cheep Chinese filters out there.
But how many indifferent ones are you happy to buy before you find the gold ?
Hoya have always been good.
Interesting the one you linked to because I would always have gone for one with the MRC coating
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... 44842.html
Yet it's a couple of $$ cheaper, usually they are (or at least were ) more expensive.
Do you have other photographic interests other than watches ?
If so and you have a collection of lenses it may be worth thinking about buying into a Cokin or Lee style of set up from the start.
Then you can buy only one filter and use it across multiple lens threads.
Just a thought.
I never had any probs with Cokin, have never used Lee but they have a really good rep for nice glass.
Chris R, you mention the camera, tripod reflection, that's why I said the light tent should be closed on all 5 sides with just the lens poking through.
I used to shoot a lot of glass, I don't see watches being any different, the key was diffusion of the light source.
Unless stainless watch straps need something different.
Does anyone know if it does respond to circular polarization ?
Then add highlights, colour as needed.
Just the same as we do with our little invert friends.
Look at your light sky from your watches position.
Not yours