Macro_Cosmos wrote: ↑Sat Aug 29, 2020 1:53 amSince it's the corners, I'm not sure if that's even 3% extra.nielsgeode wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:07 pmYes and no. I'm looking for good image quality, but I don't need or want to bother to squeeze out the last 3% with a large amount of effort or costs.
Stitching is a thing for me. On the one hand it's tempting to make super high-resolution images. On the other hand it takes so much time and I'm almost never able to make a proper stitch out of the individual output stacked files I make (in the attempts I have done in the past). The problem is that I stack crystals with perfectly straight lines and even the tiniest of mismatch in the frames during stitching is obvious from a mile away.
My other main reason for stitching is when the magnification is slightly off, for example an 8mm crystal with my fullframe sensor and 5x magnification (7.2mm fov). However, given the amount of stacks I want to do it's best to not be too picky for most of them and only put a lot of time/effort in the very best onces.
I think the best is to get the cheaper (annoying) clamps and make a fixed setup with the tubes, clamps and arca plate. For that one I mount the ITL in normal orientation. If I ever want something else I will get a second clamp, tubes, arca plate so I can swap the entire 'thing' at once. Should be much more practical.
For crystals, yeah I would avoid stitching. There's lots of very fine and thin crystals, software hates it. I assume you won't need edge-to-edge sharpness then. I know a someone who does excellent crystal stacks, most of his time is spent cleaning up the tiny dust particles and imperfections in post. He uses a 10x, a Canon 5Dmk2, and a Sony a6300.
Another method that just sprung to my mind is simply reversing the entire thing. Get yourself a short-ish A-S rail, like this one: https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/MPR-113-SOAR-rail
If you ever want to mount the ITL200 in retro, just swap the entire thing around. Add tubes to the front and take ones from the rear. Just make sure the tube assembly is clamped with the ITL200 sandwiched in the centre of 2 collars.
Here's mine. I personally use the long rail to coarsely focus. Simply rearrange the collars a bit. Focus can still be adjusted with the variable tube by loosening the collar.
itl.jpg
Thanks for all the info! I'm wondering if there are cheaper alternatives to some of the parts in the Thorlabs m52 setup. For example the ring collars or the stackable tubes themselves. They are not that fancy and I think Chinese tubes flocked or painted will work just as good?