... that's not me btw 
...ErgoBall - Microscope Specimen Manipulation - White Plastozote or Magnetic version
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ErgoBall-Micr ... 25993aac1a
The ErgoBall [specimen gadget] is back online ...
Moderators: Chris S., Pau, Beatsy, rjlittlefield, ChrisR
The ErgoBall [specimen gadget] is back online ...
I've seen some nice DIY versions on here ... but this is for the connoisseurs' among us ... that's not me btw ...
ErgoBall - Microscope Specimen Manipulation - White Plastozote or Magnetic version
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ErgoBall-Micr ... 25993aac1a
... that's not me btw ...ErgoBall - Microscope Specimen Manipulation - White Plastozote or Magnetic version
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ErgoBall-Micr ... 25993aac1a
Canon 550D(T2i) ML (Nightly Builds) | Canon 5D MKII | Raynox 250 | Palinar 35mm f2.8 (reversed) | EL-Nikkor 50mm f2.8 N | EL-Nikkor 50mm f4 N | EL-Nikkor 50mm f4 | Bellows | Objectives: LOMO 3.7x 0.11 : 8x 0.20 : 40x 0.65
RiG II - 'Bamboo': Olympus CH Focus Block with Inverted Arca/Swiss | Canon 430 EX (x2) | Olympus T20 flash (x2) | Youngnuo YN-622C Wireless triggers (x3) | Ikea Jansjo 3W LED Lighting (x3)
Stepper Motor Focusing System (Helicon Remote)
RiG II - 'Bamboo': Olympus CH Focus Block with Inverted Arca/Swiss | Canon 430 EX (x2) | Olympus T20 flash (x2) | Youngnuo YN-622C Wireless triggers (x3) | Ikea Jansjo 3W LED Lighting (x3)
Stepper Motor Focusing System (Helicon Remote)
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rjlittlefield
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£42.00 for a device that can't even keep the subject centered as it turns??
Compare with Bioquip's gimbal-type 6188 Microscope Stage.
--Rik
Compare with Bioquip's gimbal-type 6188 Microscope Stage.
--Rik
Re: The ErgoBall [specimen gadget] is back online ...
I've seen some DIY projects here that were similar in design (to the ErgoBall). I remember reading the user having good results with it. [edit] Both sure beat what I just paid for a 6 axis stage. 
Last edited by abpho on Sat Nov 15, 2014 9:34 am, edited 2 times in total.
I'm in Canada! Isn't that weird?
Yes I forgot to say a tad expensive for what is does ... but thought someone might find it useful ... 
In BioQuips' version, I presume there's friction in the handle mechanism to stop gravity pulling on the holder? ... but still not easy for rotating it on the 2nd axis (at base level) ...
The best DIY specimen stage I've seen is Johan's gimble ... but trying to find a boat 'gimble bracket' at a cheap price is hard though ...
I'm currently using a cheap microscope X-Y stage for up-down, left-right movement that works very well ... just need to put that on a panoramic stage to rotate it and I've got my 3 axis' ... tilt? ... maybe ... but then we're getting into the really expensive multi-goniometer territory ...
Gem
In BioQuips' version, I presume there's friction in the handle mechanism to stop gravity pulling on the holder? ... but still not easy for rotating it on the 2nd axis (at base level) ...
The best DIY specimen stage I've seen is Johan's gimble ... but trying to find a boat 'gimble bracket' at a cheap price is hard though ...
I'm currently using a cheap microscope X-Y stage for up-down, left-right movement that works very well ... just need to put that on a panoramic stage to rotate it and I've got my 3 axis' ... tilt? ... maybe ... but then we're getting into the really expensive multi-goniometer territory ...
Gem
Canon 550D(T2i) ML (Nightly Builds) | Canon 5D MKII | Raynox 250 | Palinar 35mm f2.8 (reversed) | EL-Nikkor 50mm f2.8 N | EL-Nikkor 50mm f4 N | EL-Nikkor 50mm f4 | Bellows | Objectives: LOMO 3.7x 0.11 : 8x 0.20 : 40x 0.65
RiG II - 'Bamboo': Olympus CH Focus Block with Inverted Arca/Swiss | Canon 430 EX (x2) | Olympus T20 flash (x2) | Youngnuo YN-622C Wireless triggers (x3) | Ikea Jansjo 3W LED Lighting (x3)
Stepper Motor Focusing System (Helicon Remote)
RiG II - 'Bamboo': Olympus CH Focus Block with Inverted Arca/Swiss | Canon 430 EX (x2) | Olympus T20 flash (x2) | Youngnuo YN-622C Wireless triggers (x3) | Ikea Jansjo 3W LED Lighting (x3)
Stepper Motor Focusing System (Helicon Remote)
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rjlittlefield
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Yes. The unit that I received was manufactured and assembled a bit crudely, but it cleaned up OK with some fine abrasive cloth and careful reassembly.GemBro wrote:In BioQuips' version, I presume there's friction in the handle mechanism to stop gravity pulling on the holder?
I suppose it depends on the size of one's fingers. I find that there's adequate space even in the worst configuration:but still not easy for rotating it on the 2nd axis (at base level)
As always, it's a matter of tradeoffs. The Bioquip holder is an off-the-shelf thingie that provides a lot of flexibility in a small package at a relatively low price. For precision control I'll fire up my goniometers, but that's a very different class of equipment.
They do play together, by the way. If you look closely you'll see a steel plate glued to the bottom of my Bioquip stage. That's to allow mounting it with magnets on the end of my goniometer stack.
--Rik
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Sam Droege
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- Location: Patuxent Wildlife Research Center
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Ping Pong Ball Specimen Manipulator
Gary Alpert of Antweb fame once showed me a clever and cheap device for holding specimens for photography. Take a ping pong ball. Drill a hole in it. Fill with plaster of paris. Drill a hole in the plaster of paris in the same hole and fill with plasticene clay. Put ping pong ball on top of appropriately sized piece of pipe cut to whatever length you like....stick specimen on pin in clay and rotate away. sam
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rjlittlefield
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RobertOToole
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As a higher priced alternative to the BIOQUIP unit the Dino-lite unit pretty hard to beat. I picked one up for $45 but it seems like the price went back up to $69 before I could share the discount link.
Note that the unit comes with 4 different clips and the clip mount section, shown here at 45 deg, can rotate 360 deg and the section movement is dampened.
Dino-Lite MS16C Versatile multi-positioning specimen holder
Note that the unit comes with 4 different clips and the clip mount section, shown here at 45 deg, can rotate 360 deg and the section movement is dampened.
Dino-Lite MS16C Versatile multi-positioning specimen holder
Chris, it looks a lot like some "gem jewel tweezers" that I picked up as a sale part on microscope bits a couple of years ago. There's one on eBay but pricey - or look for a dino-lite specimen holder. Trouble is neither is just the clip which is all we really need, rather than the extra bits and markup.
added - this is a bit more reasonable. Also, alligator clips seems to be on the right lines. As opposed to crocodile clips I guess. This is a potential US supplier of clips like this.
added - this is a bit more reasonable. Also, alligator clips seems to be on the right lines. As opposed to crocodile clips I guess. This is a potential US supplier of clips like this.
My extreme-macro.co.uk site, a learning site. Your comments and input there would be gratefully appreciated.
I am working on an article and web page for the Quekett Microscopical Club on home-made cup stages and ball tables, and here are some examples with similar functionality to the ErgoBall:
I find 30mm balls a bit too small, so these use 40mm cork and wooden balls.
The one of the left requires no DIY skills at all - the base is the inner part of a roll of sticky tape, and the cork ball just sits on it.
The centre one has a wooden ball with a hole drilled in it and filled with Plastazote. The base was cut from a length of acrylic tube, using a small hacksaw.
The right-hand one has a wooden ball with a hole drilled in it to accept the end of a crocodile clip. I filled the hole with plaster of Paris, but I could have pushed in a couple of matchsticks to hold the clip firmly.
The balls and the tube can be bought in various sizes on eBay or from shops that cater for people who make models.
Alan Wood
I find 30mm balls a bit too small, so these use 40mm cork and wooden balls.
The one of the left requires no DIY skills at all - the base is the inner part of a roll of sticky tape, and the cork ball just sits on it.
The centre one has a wooden ball with a hole drilled in it and filled with Plastazote. The base was cut from a length of acrylic tube, using a small hacksaw.
The right-hand one has a wooden ball with a hole drilled in it to accept the end of a crocodile clip. I filled the hole with plaster of Paris, but I could have pushed in a couple of matchsticks to hold the clip firmly.
The balls and the tube can be bought in various sizes on eBay or from shops that cater for people who make models.
Alan Wood
I like the cork ball, one could pin into it for a background, gobos, reflectors, etc
Brass nuts from compression plumbing fittings make for smooth, heavy rings in a range of sizes. The holes go 10, 15, 22, 28, 35, 42, 50... mm
(You can have stainless steel or chrome or plastic, too.)
As for balls,
One idea I saw recently - was it here...?
1) Take table tennis ball, drill a hole, fill with plaster of paris, drill a socket for
Or from somewhere, I may have dreamt it up:
2) Take table tennis ball, drill a hole, fill with lead shot leaving a space for cork/Plastazote, pour some thin glue in just to hold the shot.
I always have a lot of ideas for such things rolling around in my head ..
Brass nuts from compression plumbing fittings make for smooth, heavy rings in a range of sizes. The holes go 10, 15, 22, 28, 35, 42, 50... mm
(You can have stainless steel or chrome or plastic, too.)
As for balls,
One idea I saw recently - was it here...?
1) Take table tennis ball, drill a hole, fill with plaster of paris, drill a socket for
Or from somewhere, I may have dreamt it up:
2) Take table tennis ball, drill a hole, fill with lead shot leaving a space for cork/Plastazote, pour some thin glue in just to hold the shot.
I always have a lot of ideas for such things rolling around in my head ..
Well found Jörgen, we need an index!
There are other useful posts, with concave dishes, etc.
Alan
(replying to a pm really)
You need a nut long enough that the bottom of the ball doesn't hit the "table".
If you have a Pipe radius P and
Ball radius B
the length you need is = B - sqrt( B² - P²)
So with a 40mm diameter ball,
with a 35mm pipe fitting you need 10.3mm.
with a 28mm fitting you need 5.7mm.
A 35mm nut is 17.5mm long. No sums there, I just measured the one on the left...
The t t ball is sitting in a "stop end" which is better, because it has a flat heavy base. (That was what I bought it for )
35mm compression stop end & nut, 22mm and 15mm nuts.
--
The box (eBay) they're sitting on contains the following, which have obvious possibilities. The knurled parts are strong magnets, which are quite heavy, therefore stable when sitting down. (The metal disc is a fridge magnet.)
There are other useful posts, with concave dishes, etc.
Alan
(replying to a pm really)
You need a nut long enough that the bottom of the ball doesn't hit the "table".
If you have a Pipe radius P and
Ball radius B
the length you need is = B - sqrt( B² - P²)
So with a 40mm diameter ball,
with a 35mm pipe fitting you need 10.3mm.
with a 28mm fitting you need 5.7mm.
A 35mm nut is 17.5mm long. No sums there, I just measured the one on the left...
The t t ball is sitting in a "stop end" which is better, because it has a flat heavy base. (That was what I bought it for
)35mm compression stop end & nut, 22mm and 15mm nuts.
--
The box (eBay) they're sitting on contains the following, which have obvious possibilities. The knurled parts are strong magnets, which are quite heavy, therefore stable when sitting down. (The metal disc is a fridge magnet.)