How to mount lens tube for vertical use on a Velmex 4000?

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Peter De Smidt
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How to mount lens tube for vertical use on a Velmex 4000?

Post by Peter De Smidt »

I'm using a Velmes A40 Unislide for the z-axis of my film scanner. Currently, I use a crudely machined aluminum spacer and a Arca-style screw clamp to mount the camera to the Unislide:

Image

I would like to mount an optical tube from Edmunds or other source using ring clamps to the Velmex slider. It has 4 10-32 threaded holds:

Image

I'm thinking of using 2-3" diameter optical tubing, as that'll allow easy positioning of masks and flocking in the tube to minimize flare. It should also provide a more stable mount. Finally, it'll hopefully mean that I won't have to align the system before every scan.

The main issue is that the ring clamps I've seen, from Thorlab and others, don't have provision for 10-32 bolts.

I'd be grateful for any advice as to a good way to proceed.

ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

All that comes to mind immediately is a Nikon PN-11.

Chris S.
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Post by Chris S. »

Peter,

One easy approach that comes to mind: Make an aluminum adapter plate that mounts between the Velmex Unistage’s slider and the tube clamps/ring mounts. The adapter plate could be approximately the same length and width as the slider, and be cut from 1/2” diameter or similar aluminum stock. Plan to affix this plate to the slider by drilling four untapped holes, counterbored for 10-32 screws, arranged over the existing threaded holes in the slider. But before attaching this plate to the slider, add some more holes for attaching the ring mounts.

If using Thorlabs’ SM3TC (3-inch) or SM2TC (2-inch) tube clamps, which come with counterbored mounting holes sized for 8-32 or M4x0.7 cap screws, drill and tap additional holes of this size in the adapter plate. Then place the screws downward through the holes in the tube clamp and thread them into the adapter plate. Then screw the adapter plate to the Velmex slider.

If using Edmund Optics T-Mount ring mounts (stock number 52-304 imperial or 63-978 metric), which come with either a ¼-20 or M6 tapped hole, drill the appropriate counterbored holes from the underside of the adapter plate. Then thread the screws from underneath, up into the ring mounts.

I’ve found that it’s a good idea, when making adapter plates such as these, to make the unthreaded holes and counterbores slightly oversized or elongated to permit axial alignment. And when calculating the size of the counterbores, include not only room for the head of the screw, but also for a lock washer.

Sorry if this was a complicated description of a simple item. My fabricator, Don Wilson, would likely sketch this out in less time than it takes to read what I just wrote.

The adapter would be somewhat similar to the adapter labeled "L" here--except made from flat aluminum stock, rather than right angle stock.

Cheers,

--Chris

Peter De Smidt
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Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:10 am
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Post by Peter De Smidt »

Thank you for the ideas. I hadn't seen a PN-11 before. It would be very useful in the field. I had been thinking along the lines that Chris S. suggests, probably because I had seen his builds at some point. This does sound like an extremely secure way to go, although it's pricey.

ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

There's an Olympus OM version you may not have seen:
http://www.alanwood.net/photography/oly ... -tube.html

At the camera end, Olympus OM to Canon is easy, Nikon hard.

At the lens end, one fairly useful option is a Reversing Ring. Olympus made these with 49mm thread, though 52 etc ones are available. I got one from China costing 1.99 including post - I have no idea how they do that!

With all Olympus adapters, double check you're getting OM and not OM4/3.

Peter De Smidt
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Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:10 am
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Post by Peter De Smidt »

I picked up a PN-1 extension tube, a precursor to the PN-11, along with an M2 extension ring. I'm very happy with that pair. Everything is well-machined, and together with a t-mount/f-mount adapter and a step down ring, my Rodagon D, with it's 39mm Leica thread, mounts easily.

The M2 has a nice interior baffle, which should help cut down on flare.

Luckily, the combination puts my lens at 1:1, which is right where I wanted it. Even without using the lens collar, the setup is stronger than what I had before.

Thank you for all of the suggestions!

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