How To Connect CCTV To Computer Monitor?

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Pau
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Post by Pau »

ChrisR wrote:T3i =600D, I haven't noticed any difference for metering modes with/without the chip - though there's no aperture to control of course. "M" and "A" both work. I haven't used any of the "Scene" modes. AF confirm and Exif aren't important to me.
If ( I haven't fully tested it) TTL flash works better, that would matter but I think it works OK without the chip.
For the price difference, you might as well have an adapter with a chip though.
Usually the only issue without chip is that the live view image (both on screen or computer monitor if tethered) looks very dark and almost useless in M mode with this series of cameras (and with others like 7D when exposure simulation mode is enabled). Can you test it with your 600D and tell us?
Flash will work OK: A Canon E-TTL flash disables EFSC mode (and a non dedicated flash will not fire in LV silent mode).
Pau

Pau
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Post by Pau »

lvmnhien wrote:I am surprised that the 50D, the predecessor of the 60D, is better in term of reducing vibration. I think I will buy either the 50D or 7D. Do you think the following adaptor is sufficient or do I need to buy some extra extensions to suit my objectives of 160/-?
I was the first surprised:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=12203

With a 50D or 7D you don't need a chipped adapter as you can disable exposure simulation mode, but for few bucks I undoubtly would buy a chipped one.
But if it is just for microscope use I would buy a 600D: 50D has not video and the sensor is older, 7D is much more expensive (I use and love it, for general photography is better (water sealing, speed, AF, much better optical viewfinder, powerfull battery...)) but for microscope I don't see any significative advantage.
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ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

In M mode there's only one display mode - "ExpSIM", so it's dark or light in accordance with the exposure set, versus the light being offered.
So if using flash, say, you can't see what you're doing.
Two solutions : the one I normally use is:
1) turn the Dial to "A" mode (the meter selects 20 seconds or whatever) otherwise
2) raise the built-in flash.
Both make the image bright.
It does exactly the same whether there's a Canon EF-S lens, a chipped adapter or no lens at all.

ANY flash disables EFSC. In fact anything at all shoved into the hotshoe (eg an RF receiver) depresses a switch which does it. And the contacts aren't enabled unless you press the switch - tried that too!
Unless using an external flash firing timer, to use flash in stacking, you can (only) turn Live View off and optionally use Mirror lock.

Living on a microscope/copy stand it's OK, but for general photography I find the camera's ergonomics and button-operations exasperating. It's mostly due to economies, ie not having a top-plate LCD, and only one "wheel", but I hate the way things stop working when you change modes and in "M" it's a button PLUS wheel to change aperture. And the battery life is poor and there's no high capacity option. And there's no native tiff files for stacking and the JPEG converter is lossy. And you can't control the meter timing which is far too short. And the image preview/review doesn't expand enough. And the viewfinder...ugh.
Apart from that it's Ok - below iso 500, unless you need more than a couple of frames per second.

Oh, the flappy rear LCD is handy. But on a stand it'll be the wrong way up if you want to see the top plate as well, and you can't change it.

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Post by Pau »

ChrisR wrote:In M mode there's only one display mode - "ExpSIM", so it's dark or light in accordance with the exposure set, versus the light being offered.
.......
It does exactly the same whether there's a Canon EF-S lens, a chipped adapter or no lens at all.
At least with my 7D with exp sim. on or with some other XXXD cameras this is not the same: With a EF lens in M mode the live image match the picture you take with the selected parameters (this is the sense of "esposure simulation") but if the camera doesn't detect a lens the LV image is MUCH darker than the actual picture: if you regulate the camera according the live image the picture will be badly overexpossed and if you regulate the camera to take the right expossure Live image will be VERY dark. This is why I asked you to test your camera without chipped adapter. AV or dedicated flash shows clear useful live image.
ChrisR wrote:ANY flash disables EFSC. In fact anything at all shoved into the hotshoe depresses a switch which does it. And the contacts aren't enabled unless you press the switch - tried that too!
Unless using an external flash firing timer, to use flash in stacking, you can (only) turn Live View off and use Mirror lock.
I have not tested a non EX flash in the shoe other than in manual with the optical viewfinder, but if i connect it to the X sync port as I do it doesn't fire in LV. Will test later.
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ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

if the camera doesn't detect a lens the LV image is MUCH darker than the actual picture: if you regulate the camera according the live image the picture will be badly overexpossed and if you regulate the camera to take the right expossure Live image will be VERY dark.
That doesn't sound familar, I'll check again...

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

I use T-mounts and have no chipped adapters.

Pau:
but if the camera doesn't detect a lens the LV image is MUCH darker than the actual picture: if you regulate the camera according the live image the picture will be badly overexpossed and if you regulate the camera to take the right expossure Live image will be VERY dark.
Not with my T3i. The live-view exposure "simulation" (which can't be turned off) gives a pretty close view of what the image will look like. If you are trying to photograph something really dark and your shutter speed is really slow (I think about 4 or 8 seconds or more) then the exposure simulation does not work well (perhaps at that extreme it can't provide enough gain to the LCD after a certain EV value... don't know).

ChrisR:
So if using flash, say, you can't see what you're doing.
Only if it is a non-Canon flash. With a Canon flash the LCD screen shows a proper exposure "simulation" since the camera knows there is a flash attached and powered on, and anticipates that the flash will provide correct exposure.
ANY flash disables EFSC. In fact anything at all shoved into the hotshoe (eg an RF receiver) depresses a switch which does it. And the contacts aren't enabled unless you press the switch - tried that too!
Not so. The only thing that disables EFSC is if a Canon flash is attached and turned on. Then the camera senses the flash and will revert to the "close shutter/open shutter" operation which provides the flash sync signal. If you put a non-Canon flash on the hot-shoe the camera operates as if it is not there at all, whether the flash is powered on or off. The non-Canon flash will not fire from live-view because EFSC is still on, and no sync signal is given when EFSC is operational.
Unless using an external flash firing timer, to use flash in stacking, you can (only) turn Live View off and optionally use Mirror lock.
You can use a Canon flash and stay in live-view. It can be attached to the camera directly or via a dedicated flash cord.
Oh, the flappy rear LCD is handy. But on a stand it'll be the wrong way up if you want to see the top plate as well,
What information and settings can you not see even more clearly on the LCD (compared to the top plate) when you have the LCD display the "Qiuick Control Screen"?

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Post by Pau »

First I want to clarify again that we are speaking about M mode.
Charles Krebs wrote:I use T-mounts and have no chipped adapters.

Pau:
but if the camera doesn't detect a lens the LV image is MUCH darker than the actual picture: if you regulate the camera according the live image the picture will be badly overexpossed and if you regulate the camera to take the right expossure Live image will be VERY dark.
Not with my T3i. The live-view exposure "simulation" (which can't be turned off) gives a pretty close view of what the image will look like. If you are trying to photograph something really dark and your shutter speed is really slow (I think about 4 or 8 seconds or more) then the exposure simulation does not work well (perhaps at that extreme it can't provide enough gain to the LCD after a certain EV value... don't know).
My words were based in direct experience with 50D and 7D and some posts of other members that had a similar issue with xxxD cameras.
So I have just retested LV function of my 7D (I tend to not rely very much in my memory and for good reasons :? , and I tend to rely in your experience for good reasons too :D )
The quick test has been performed just with a EF lens both fully mounted and just turned to left to avoid electrical contacts to work

Now I think I've discovered the cause of our discrepance: If before "removing" the lens the diaphragm was set to a closed position (LV image matching the picture) LV doesn't work OK, being much darker than the actual image: despite marking "00" it seems to retain the former aperture value for the exposure simulation but of course the camera is unable to close the diafragm if the lens isn't fully mounted.
But if I regulate the camera to the maximum aperture (f2.5 in this test) before dismounting the lens the exposure simulation works OK, and because the very same reason :idea:

I would like to see if the same behavoir applies to your camera.
Pau

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Post by ChrisR »

This is resurrecting an old thread, but I noticed a discrepancy. Charles reported:
ChrisR wrote:ANY flash disables EFSC. In fact anything at all shoved into the hotshoe (eg an RF receiver) depresses a switch which does it. And the contacts aren't enabled unless you press the switch - tried that too!
Not so. The only thing that disables EFSC is if a Canon flash is attached and turned on. Then the camera senses the flash and will revert to the "close shutter/open shutter" operation which provides the flash sync signal. If you put a non-Canon flash on the hot-shoe the camera operates as if it is not there at all, whether the flash is powered on or off. The non-Canon flash will not fire from live-view because EFSC is still on, and no sync signal is given when EFSC is operational.
Well, mine's not the same as Charles', then! Mine IS so! I can confirm that on my 600D, anything pushed into the hot shoe, disables EFSC.

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