Trinocular head for PZO dic ?

[pjoris]

I bought a PZO DIC set here and luck would have it that at the same time there was a PZO Biolar for sale at ebay. So I have a reasonably priced dic-scope of PZO. I'm enjoying what I'm seeing, but would like to photograph with it too. Currently the only vaguely acceptable way I succeeded was holding a panasonic compact at the eyepiece:


The plan was to use the trinocular head I ordered for my olympus bh2. In theory this was a good plan - the olympus head fits the pzo stand - in practice the handle to choose the prism is in the way of fitting the head. Here you see that the PZO binocular head fits just, but the olympus head is bigger.



Now what would be other options:
1) best would be of course that somebody tells me the secret way to remove the handle (it seems quite fixed so I'm not hopefull this works)
2) I let somebody with metalworking skills fit a lower handle (this seems difficult, though there seems to be a version with another, lower handle: http://daniel.nardin.pagesperso-orange.fr/PZOBiolar.htm)
3) I put another trinocular or photohead on it. But here I'm a bit lost. Given that olympus heads fits, which other brands would fit (i.e. have a similar sized dove-tail) ?
- lomo ? (for example http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/LOMO-Micro- ... 1c211614b6 or the lomo trinocular head)
- meopta, older olympus ?
- zeiss ? The binoculars seem OK for size, but the trinoculars have an extending part which may or may not fit it.
- any of the recent chinese brands ?

Any suggestions would be helpful. (Also if somebody has a pdf PZO dic manual, this would also be welcome ...).

Thanks,

Joris

[Litonotus]

lowering the handle may be very easily done - it needs some metalwork but it requires basic skills. I may post my idea later if you want.

[pjoris]

Thanks - indeed that should be the best solution. I will try to find somebody with metalworking experience/tools. My idea was that it would requiring sawing of the handle, putting a new thread on the remaining part, and adding a lower handle. Let me know if you have other ideas.

I opened up the analyzer (I managed to block the horizontal movement in an area with a purple background - but that was easily fixed by opening it) and the handle seems hard to reach from the inside, certainly with all the heavy grease/oil in the machinery.

I see very little changes changing the vertical position of the prisms (maybe slightly more even background at lower position and stronger DIC effects in the higher postition) - what is the use of this movement?

Joris

[Litonotus]

I would do something like this:



cut the long handle. after that make a square shape head, and fix on it new handle with a square hole. all you need is a metal file (square shaped) and a drill. making a thread is much more difficult.

[pjoris]

Indeed, that's much easier - even within my skills and no need to have specialized tools. Thanks, Joris

[Smokedaddy]

I realize this is a old message thread. I purchased a PZO Biolar and PZO DIC (MPI5 if I understand correctly). It hasn't arrived yet so hopefully the journey will be a safe one. I was wondering if a Olympus BH-2 Binocular with Trinocular Port will adapt to the PZO easily since I wish to mount my Canon 50D to the Trinocular Port. Has anyone tried this with success? I know the language translation is difficult to understand on both ends of the conversation.

http://www.pbase.com/smokedaddy/pzo&page=all

-JW:

[dolmadis]

Hi

PZO Biolar Head Dovetail is 43mm.


HTH


John

[zzffnn]

Tube length (optical distance from lens to sensor) may not be correct, if you use a head from a different brand, even though mounting fits.

[JohnyM]

That cutting handle is very bad idea. Turn that big black ring in the middle of device to figure it out.

[Smokedaddy]

Tube length (optical distance from lens to sensor) may not be correct, if you use a head from a different brand, even though mounting fits.

So are you saying it will not work even if the dovetail fits? Has anyone tried to make it work with the BH-2? Is the tube to long or to short? Can the tube be modified so the optical distance is correct?

Regards,
-JW:

[JohnyM]

Thats how I modified olympus BHB for PZO UPI:
https://get.google.com/albumarchive/110 ... Wu0qxuPTDA

(both eyepieces adjustable, so tube lenght is not a problem)

[zzffnn]

It will work at low NA, at high NA it depends on how many mm you are off (for example, at dry NA 0.65, you want to be less than 5mm off): https://www.google.com/search?q=tube+le ... 7JuOCzrb9M:

Of course, if you know exactly how how to compensate (cut short or extend), then it would be OK. I wonder how you measure how many mm to compensate though - I think you need to do a "star test" of spherical aberration. JohnyM, was that how you determine how much to compensate, or you just eyeball it?

[JohnyM]

I measured magnification on micrometer slide.

[Ichthyophthirius]

Hi,

The tube length of the Olympus head is 7 mm longer (120 mm) than that of the PZO Biolar (113 mm). It's OK for low NA objectives but for high NA it's a bit too much.

You'd have to find out if the Olympus eyepiece tubes can be adjusted by those 7 mm. If that works it would be a great solution! Johnny's case is a little bit different because he used an Olympus base (120 + 40) while you're planning to use a PZO Biolar as base with an Olympus head (120 + 47).

Regards, Ichty

[zzffnn]

I measured magnification on micrometer slide.

I don't think magnification changes significantly when you are off by around 10mm. But 10 mm can affect dry NA 0.65 and oil NA 1.25 and add SA. Though not by a lot and probably not too significant visually.