One of the first butterflies in the spring here in Sweden - Green Hairstreak (Callophrys rubi).
I just got my "new" Nikon BD plan 10x 0.25 and wanted to see how it performed in darkfiled. Reflective surfaces was difficult (I tried with an ant (formica) and did not get any good results). The non reflective parts of the Green Hairstreak turned out like I wanted it (see second picture). The reflective surfaces round the eye looked better with Dmap. But there was a lot of purple CA that dissapeared with Pmax but not with Dmap, so in this case the entire picture is Pmax.
The third picture is the same subject but with diffused LED light and the Nikon 10x 0.30.
Canon 6D, Canon DPP and Zerene Stacker.
Regards
Jörgen
Green Hairstreak
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Wow. The detail is amazing. Good work.
Magenta chromatic aberration is easily corrected in post. As long as your subject doesn't contain any magenta. Otherwise a masking layer will be required. Just use the hue/saturation tool and turn down the saturation for the magenta channel. I have to do this a lot.
Magenta chromatic aberration is easily corrected in post. As long as your subject doesn't contain any magenta. Otherwise a masking layer will be required. Just use the hue/saturation tool and turn down the saturation for the magenta channel. I have to do this a lot.
I'm in Canada! Isn't that weird?
Thanks for the nice comment Jacek.
Thanks for the nice comment abpho and for the advice about CF removal, I have not tried that method yet but I am going to. I usually remove CF with Canon DPP before converting from RAW to TIF. But in this case I was afraid that pre-stack removal of CF would destroy some of the colors that I wanted to preserve.
Would be nice to have a foolproof workprocess for CF-removal that preserves the real colours. It is to easy to accidently end up with "false" colours. Actually it is difficult or almost impossible to know the "true" colours due to method of lighting etc. If I want to express my artistic intentions with the pictures It's OK, but If I want to make a more realistic picture I do not want to end up with a "pink elephant" or in this case a picture like the one below...
Some of these days I probably modify my old Optiphot so I can use the Mitutoyo plan apo's instead. Has anyone done this and how did it go?
Regards Jörgen
Thanks for the nice comment abpho and for the advice about CF removal, I have not tried that method yet but I am going to. I usually remove CF with Canon DPP before converting from RAW to TIF. But in this case I was afraid that pre-stack removal of CF would destroy some of the colors that I wanted to preserve.
Would be nice to have a foolproof workprocess for CF-removal that preserves the real colours. It is to easy to accidently end up with "false" colours. Actually it is difficult or almost impossible to know the "true" colours due to method of lighting etc. If I want to express my artistic intentions with the pictures It's OK, but If I want to make a more realistic picture I do not want to end up with a "pink elephant" or in this case a picture like the one below...
Some of these days I probably modify my old Optiphot so I can use the Mitutoyo plan apo's instead. Has anyone done this and how did it go?
Regards Jörgen
I've realized that myself. It is frustrating. I usually come up with a few alternative edits that all look correct, but are different from one another. However, an image true to life can be a little dull. Tweaking contrast, saturation, curves, etc can make for a much more stunning picture.JH wrote:It is to easy to accidently end up with "false" colours. Actually it is difficult or almost impossible to know the "true" colours due to method of lighting etc.
I'm more the artsy type, so I can get away with this.
I'm in Canada! Isn't that weird?
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