1. Two linear polarizers needed.
2. One below the subject one above.
3. At least one of them I must be able to rotate, doesn't mater whether the one above or below the subject.
I think for now I'll keep my eyes open for the next several weeks and see if I can get the whole setup at once off the ebay. If not, will explore DIY route.
Yesterdays ecstasy sort of faded away and again I'm not liking my darkfield. Took several shots with and without the diffuser filter:
Yesterday I got much better results with the diffuser filter trying to diminish the appearance of the light blobs. They don't travel with the stage so it would suggest that whatever it is is not on the stage. I started taking things apart and cleaning the dust but it hasn't helped. Any ideas?
Daniel is right, chromatic aberrations are awful, not visible through the binocular but obvious on the image. This is the near center 100% crop, photographed at ISO 400:
Is it possible that it is the result of image plane being not parallel to the camera sensor? I'm asking because I use one of my "awesome" DIY camera to photo tube adapters (I didn't want to spend $250 on a piece of metal tube). And I can say with 100% certainty that the camera sensor is not parallel to the image plane. And I can't make it parallel because of "awesome" workmanship:
Another idea of mine is the incorrect distance of camera sensor to the photoeyepiece. I don't know if it matters. Also perhaps the quality of the photoeyepiece. This is what I have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Microscop ... 41558bf101
I think I have an alright objective that should not display such a severe case of chromatic aberrations. This is the exact objective I have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-10X-CFN-P ... 41632b6b68
the image you saw was before I centered the bulb, it's much better now.Pau wrote:the posted sample image doesn't seem centered at all. Maybe you need to aling all the illumination components.
As soon as I start lowering the condenser the resolution disappears and the view becomes muddy gray. And I can raise the condenser only by a few millimeters as it hits the slide. When condenser is focused it is very close to the slide. I haven't tried yet with condenser top lens removed for 4x objective. Will be interesting to try.Pau wrote:To obtain good DF at low magnification you can play with the condensor heigh.