180mm, 1/160th second @ f10
DaveW
Still have problems
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Still have problems
Still having problems getting both wings sharp with yet another fly by available light as I have not got around to sorting out my flash set up yet. I could really do with the little extra DOF from a smaller aperture that flash allows. Is anybody using available light plus hand holding and managing to get both a fly's wings sharp, or is it just me that cannot manage it? Bees being larger don't seem to be as much a problem!
180mm, 1/160th second @ f10
DaveW
180mm, 1/160th second @ f10
DaveW
Hi Dave. As you know, I am new at photography but I have been getting some decent results lately using the following settings (as advised by Karl), know where near what some of these other chaps are doing, but a giant leap for me.
Handheld, Manual focus 60mm macro lens, ISO 200, Shutter 200, f/16, pop-up flash (deffused with a couple of layers of kitchen towel held in place with an elastic band)
Sadly, I am up to my eyes in bathroom tiling at the mo so not able to get out so often.
I have posted a recent result here.
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 5868#15868
Handheld, Manual focus 60mm macro lens, ISO 200, Shutter 200, f/16, pop-up flash (deffused with a couple of layers of kitchen towel held in place with an elastic band)
Sadly, I am up to my eyes in bathroom tiling at the mo so not able to get out so often.
I have posted a recent result here.
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 5868#15868
Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday... and all's well!
Soooo glad it's working for you Phil....now you need to practice more and take the shot as soon as you see the eye's in focus....
I don't think taking macro shots with available light is advisable, i was advised to use a flash all the time, and can freeze the slightest movement even in a breeze.
I know there are very experienced macro toggers here and most will probably use a flash set up some sort....
I don't think taking macro shots with available light is advisable, i was advised to use a flash all the time, and can freeze the slightest movement even in a breeze.
I know there are very experienced macro toggers here and most will probably use a flash set up some sort....
Last edited by karl-m on Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
Believe when you see it, the camera never lies...
DOF is something that many worry about Dave. I'm use to seeing shallow DOF and honestly expect it. So for me, its not a big deal. I actually like this because of the top view and looking directly down. Thats different Dave and different is a darn good thing. I love the colours of these and the way the light cuts on them.
Mostly I use flash in one form or another Dave, so can't really help there. Next time I get a chance, I'll take a shot straight down and have a look at the wings for DOF.
All the best Dave and IMO, good shot.
Danny.
Mostly I use flash in one form or another Dave, so can't really help there. Next time I get a chance, I'll take a shot straight down and have a look at the wings for DOF.
All the best Dave and IMO, good shot.
Danny.
Worry about the image that comes out of the box, rather than the box itself.
Yes, main trouble in using available light hand holding Danny is having to use higher ISO's and I do not like the grain (noise) this produces. I like to keep it at ISO 200 or below, but have had to use ISO 400 at times. We are not blessed with the same light intensity in the UK as those in the US have.
This is an advantage at times as it produces a softer less contrasty light, but you do run into troubles with slower shutter speeds and insect movement during the exposure.
I used to use a twin manual flash set-up before converting to digital and even used Kodachrome 25 or 64 with that and got a reasonable DOF and pin sharp pictures. I guess I am going to have to return to flash so I can use far smaller apertures as the subjects get smaller. Still I suppose using available light is a good exercise in hand holding!
DaveW
This is an advantage at times as it produces a softer less contrasty light, but you do run into troubles with slower shutter speeds and insect movement during the exposure.
I used to use a twin manual flash set-up before converting to digital and even used Kodachrome 25 or 64 with that and got a reasonable DOF and pin sharp pictures. I guess I am going to have to return to flash so I can use far smaller apertures as the subjects get smaller. Still I suppose using available light is a good exercise in hand holding!
DaveW
K25 is where my flash usage comes from Dave. IMO, still the best there has ever been in film. K64 I didn't like the greens for some reason 
so flash and K25 became the std. I never go over ISO 50. I've tried 100 but I always go back to 50. Sometimes I use just the pop up flash with a white card held out in front of it, bent so as the direct light downward. So in reality, its bounced flash. Other times I'll use twin flash units fired with slaves from the inbuilt flash. Harsh lighting, yes sometimes for real mate. Other times it seem to work well.
Mark Plonsky has an excellent twin flash setup that worked superbly with the Canon "G" series. I think hes now using a macrolite with his DSLR.
Anyway, DOF or lack of it is just something we get used to I guess. Well for me anyway.
All the best in the UK Dave.
Danny.
so flash and K25 became the std. I never go over ISO 50. I've tried 100 but I always go back to 50. Sometimes I use just the pop up flash with a white card held out in front of it, bent so as the direct light downward. So in reality, its bounced flash. Other times I'll use twin flash units fired with slaves from the inbuilt flash. Harsh lighting, yes sometimes for real mate. Other times it seem to work well. Mark Plonsky has an excellent twin flash setup that worked superbly with the Canon "G" series. I think hes now using a macrolite with his DSLR.
Anyway, DOF or lack of it is just something we get used to I guess. Well for me anyway.
All the best in the UK Dave.
Danny.
Worry about the image that comes out of the box, rather than the box itself.
For some strange reason Danny ISO 100 is the lowest ISO on the Nikon D200. I have noticed that a lot of the cameras with smaller sensors have a lower ISO range than many of the larger sensored DSLR's, so I can only assume it is to allow for the greater enlargement of the image from a smaller sensor without enlarging the grain (noise) too much. Why they cannot provide these lower ISO's on the larger sensors for even better quality I do not know?
DaveW
DaveW