DaveW wrote:I did ask a week or two ago if stacking worked OK for t two or three image stack and I believe it was Rik who said it did.
Yep, that was me.
Seeing your images here, I think you may want to use a few more.
Here's some quick theory. Suppose you want an image that has a circle of confusion of size N pixels. Look in your current single frame and estimate the size of the blur circles at the closest and farthest distances that you want to be in focus in your stacked image. Divide the current blur circle size by your N-pixel requirement, and that's how roughly how many frames you'll need. Example: Suppose you want no more than 2 pixels blur circle, but you currently have 10 pixels blur at front and back. Then you'll need 10/2=5 more frames in front, same in back, 11 frames total. It's hard to judge from these web-sized images, but for your first picture I'd guestimate something like 5-7 frames to get all the petals tack-sharp.
Two other things come to mind.
First, stark black backgrounds are particularly vulnerable to halo, and last I checked, Helicon Focus was more vulnerable than CombineZ5 (now superseded by CombineZM, by the way). Be prepared for some messing around, to get the same clean subject-background transitions that you're used to in single frames.
Second, alignment of frames within a stack can be a problem if the entrance pupil of your lens moves too much and thus changes the perspective. For magnifications much less than 1:1, as you have, it's best to shoot the stack by turning the lens focus ring, as opposed to locking the focus ring and sliding the camera along a rail. Example: Suppose you want to stack 4 inches deep. Sliding the camera along a rail, the entrance pupil would move by 4 inches. But turning the focus ring, it'll move by only a fraction of an inch -- much better.
These are beautiful flowers, and beautiful pictures. I'd say that you're adapting to digital just fine!
--Rik