If I needed to fill in defects these days, I'd use something like: http://www.pelikan-shop.co.uk/shop/Pulsar/en_GB_SHOP.ShopTwo.displayShop.89486./518--30-ml-17-black One could always try some black electrical tape over the roundish damaged areas to see if blackening has any effect in these circumst...

I expect that you know this, but you can minimize flare caused by the damaged areas by blackening them. What do you use to blacken them? I've heard of people using a black thin-line Sharpie, but what I've used is Krylon Ultra Flat Black spray paint, as suggested by Richard Knoppow. Spray into a pla...

I expect that you know this, but you can minimize flare caused by the damaged areas by blackening them.

What a great test! The results match my experience with epoxy, which is that it's not reliable for a structural load, at least not with a butt joint.

I had in mind using only one of the lenses for the larger coins, stopping down if it helps. Generally, starting with the simplest solution to set a benchmark seems like a good idea. That way you can tell if the added complexities are worth the trouble.

Just to fill some space until Rik has his coffee, for those larger sized coins, are you stacking? My guess is that you don't have to for them. If so, then for them telecentricity wouldn't be important. It's helpful for stacking, especially if the subject has a fair amount of height.

Yes. Sorry about that. Here's a link to a reseller: https://www.cheetahstand.com/A-New-Bare-Bulb-Flash-Arrives-p/cl-180pcombo.htm With regular speedlights, the flash tube is in the main plastic housing. When the tube is fired, it heats up, and if this is done enough, the housing, and the stuff in it...

Godox bare bulb flashes, and the re-branded versions of these, are worth checking into. They are very resistant to over heading, and the lithium batteries are terrific. In addition, they are very easy to set. Adorama, Cheetahstand, and many others relabel these flashes. I have three of them that I u...

Fuji EX enlarging lenses are very high quality.

You might want to talk to John at http://www.microcarve.com/mcMV1.html . The gigamacro people used a version of one of John's older designs.

I use the non-micro 200f/4 AIS lens. It works fine, and it's cheaper than the micro lens. Since the tube lens is focused at infinity, I'm not sure that there'd be any advantage for this application with the micro lens.

Wouldn't vibration effects play a bigger role at slower shutter speed, say around 1 second to 1/15th of a second?

Great looking setup!

Kowa lenses were high quality. I've owned a couple for large format photography. They're worth giving a try.

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