Adapter for Micro-Four-Thirds camera (GF1)?

[ktraphagen]

I have a Panasonic GF1 with several mFT lenses and an adapter to use some older Canon FD lenses. I'd like to know if there is an adapter for a microscope for the Micro-Four-Thirds cameras and if anyone has used one for microphotography?

Thank you,
Karyn

[rjlittlefield]

Karyn, welcome aboard!

I have no hands-on experience with any of the Micro-Four-Thirds cameras.

However, based on what I see in the technical descriptions and what I have seen with other cameras, the Micro-Four-Thirds should work well for photography through a microscope simply by pointing the camera's lens down a normal viewing eyepiece. See the discussion HERE, especially the setup illustrated at the bottom of that post.

There are other approaches that may also work, using the camera body with no lens, and letting optics in the microscope alone project an image onto the camera's sensor. Pros and cons of those approaches are discussed at the same link.

--Rik

[elf]

Adaptors definitely exist for Canon, so you can use your current adaptor to mate up with a Canon microscope adaptor. See this thread: http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... c.php?t=12

[OzRay]

Depending on your microscope, there are a number of adapters available for m4/3s cameras.

This is my E-P1 on a microscope using a C mount to m4/3s to scope adapter:



Here's a closer shot of the adapters:



Cheers

Ray

[ktraphagen]

Thank you, all, for the info and the photos of the setup. I'm encouraged to go ahead and try to put together a setup with my camera!

Karyn

[ktraphagen]

OzRay,

Where did you purchase those adapters? Thx

Karyn

UPDATE: Found some!

[ktraphagen]

Do you think I could use this field microscope with the c-Mount adapter?

http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatal ... uctid=1854

Thx
Karyn

[Charles Krebs]

Karyn,

Hard to say without looking at it or having better diagrams. I tend to doubt it.

If you are looking for a very simple, highly portable, single magnification microscope I think there is a much better way to go. (If you are willing to give up the "telescope" capability of the item you referenced.)

You could use T-mount or C-mount tubes and the appropriate adapters to make a single tube "microscope" that would take standard RMS objectives. (See Edmund NT54-868 for an idea of what I mean). Then you could add any (RMS threaded) objective you wish.

C-mount would be OK for 4/3, but if I were "building" this I would use T-mount tubes, as they have a larger diameter and could then be used with just about any SLR. (BTW... 4/3 T-mount adapters are very common now... less than $10 on eBay. In general DSLR camera body T-mounts are more readily available than the C versions.) Such an arrangement, with a decent low priced objective, could be assembled for about $70 less than the 25X Portable you referenced. (And I strongly suspect the image quality would be better.)

There are also a couple of very basic, bullet-proof microscopes made that consist of a standard 23mm brass tube, (RMS threaded at one end) in a cast metal base with a simple flat stage. They have a plexiglass light "pipe" to direct light through a subject. Somewhere I have a link but a quick look did not turn it up. I'll check again later if this sounds like it might be of interest.

Might be best if you gave us an idea of your desired use and subject matter.

[ktraphagen]

Charles,

I already own a Brock Optical Magiscope (the field microscope with the brass tube and plexiglass light pipe). I thought of trying to use some of those components, but the brass tube is not threaded on the eyepiece end.

I'm completely open to suggestions.

I was thinking of going the way you mention with the single "tube" microscope using just a standard RMS objective, but I thought the image quality would not be good enough if I didn't also pair the objective with an eyepiece.

What would I need to adapt my GF1 to the Brock Magiscope eyepiece?

WHich would you do... the Brock Magiscope, or the T-mount method you describe? Or some combination of the two?

Thanks,
Karyn

[rjlittlefield]

Might be best if you gave us an idea of your desired use and subject matter.

Yes, please.

The more we know about what you need, the better assistance we can give. There is a world of difference between shooting live protozoa, prepared slides, and 3D subjects like flower parts.

--Rik

[ktraphagen]

OK, I'll describe a little of what I'd like to do.

I want to carry the field microscope (or whatever rig I build) with my camera and lenses (and my bag of other "necessaries"... binoculars, Moleskine, water, etc.) out to get some micro shots of things like, parts of insects, parts of flowers, parts of feathers, moss, lichen, bark. Also, fossils and some rocks (maybe... these may fall more into the macro category).

I'll also be looking to do some macro shots of similar subject material.

Eventually, I'd like to get some water critters, but I can wait and work toward that.

I know that DOF will be an issue, and that doing field work as opposed to in the lab/office will limit the ability to do things like "stacking" (which I've only read about and am not at all ready to try, I don't think). Although, I suppose I could bring samples back to my office to have more control.

I'm looking for the intersection of art and science, so I'm not trying to "document" as much as find ways to present images that allow viewers to enter a different world and give me an opportunity to discuss the science behind the subject. I am interested in textures, patterns, and symmetry.

And some day, I'd like to be confident enough to produce something worthy of submitting to the Nikon Small World contest. I know that is a long way off, but goals are good.

Does that help... or is it too broad?
Karyn

[rjlittlefield]

Thanks, this helps a lot. Somehow I had missed the thought that you wanted to use this setup in the field. That's another aspect that matters.

Since you already have a Brock Magiscope, the first thing to try is to simply point the lens of your camera down the eyepiece of the Magiscope, essentially substituting the camera lens in place of your own eyeball. The camera will have to be close to the eyepiece, just as your eye would be.

If you have multiple lenses for your camera, then try them all to see which works best. Some may vignette worse than others. In all cases, set your camera so the lens is wide open.

I think this quick test is likely to give a reasonable result.

If it does, then I would pursue a simple mechanical linkage to help keep things lined up. That way you can go into the field with a working Magiscope, a camera that takes regular pictures, and a way to take pictures through the scope without exposing the camera's sensor to contaminants like dust and water.

You're correct that DOF will be an issue -- probably a big one. With the Magiscope, you can get best DOF by using the low power objective and just cropping the frame later to however big the subject is.

Play with all this on the desktop, of course, before venturing into the wilds.

--Rik

[Charles Krebs]

Brock Optical Magiscope

That's it! I actually have one packed away somewhere!

Since you already have the Brock I would get a micro 4/3 T-mount. I forgot that the micro 4/3 mount is physically smaller than the 4/3... but it seems like you can get a T-mount adapter for it...eBay 160411293152 (unless the dealer is mistaken). Then I would get a T-mount microscope adapter like eBay 390186590749. This gets your camera body onto the Brock tube. You can try it with the eyepiece in place, as intended, or try it as "direct projection" with no eyepiece. (With no eyepiece you would have more "extension" than the objective was designed for, but with 4X-20X objectives there should be little negative effect on image quality.)

The Brock stand base may be more bulky and heavy than you want to carry around in the field. If so...

I would get a small focus rack (eBay 260506057831 looks like a perfect candidate). Attach the Brock tube to it... Brock has an accessory part that could be used, or, if you contact them they would likely sell you another of the holder brackets that is attached to the base. Get a 1/4-20 hole in the base of the focusing rack and you could attach it to your tripod. You could have some fun with that. (I would use a 4X or 10X objective. Higher powers would be tough.)

[ktraphagen]

Thanks! This is really helpful.

I'll look for a micro 4/3 T-mount and adapter, and continue to play around with things to see what works best. What is the difference between using a C-mount and a T-mount with my micro 4/3 GF1?

Tonight I'll play around with my lenses and the various objectives on for the Magiscope and see what seems to work best.

Once I get some images, I'll post them here for your critique.

Karyn

[OzRay]

OzRay,

Where did you purchase those adapters? Thx

Karyn

UPDATE: Found some!

The C mount adapter came from eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/16mm-C-Mount-lens-E ... 563b475e39

The microscope adapter came from eBay as well: http://stores.ebay.com/MicroscopeNet__W0QQ_fsubZ5441295

Cheers

Ray