Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Good idea. I have some Canada Balsam from Quebec that they claim is 100% pure filtered resin. Should I dilute this with Xylene to some degree and/or heat the joint to some temp to hasten drying?try to re cement (maybe reversibly)
Like I said, if the half silvered portion is mucked up, it's junk. It's not worth trying to re-silver it, hoping to get the rario correct, especially when good ones are cheap and plentifull.Retro wrote: Upon inspection it was observed that only one surface was defective. Do you suppose the octagonal prism was once a half-silvered mirror? If so will the performance of the bino-head be seriously affected without the ion deposit?
Jim
Paulo, can you post a photo of the Nikon Q head you're referring to? I'm sure I've been through one , but don't recognize the designation. For the Optophot Labophot series?PauloM wrote: Also, does anyone know how to remove the optical path selection knob on a Nikon Q head (I'm assuming the procedure would be the same for other Nikon trinoc heads with a knob/rod selector). Trying to unscrew the knob gets me nowhere, as the knob turns and turns but remains attached, and without removing it I cannot have proper access to the bottom prisms and lenses.
P
What you said in that post went right over my head I thought you were referring to the diagonal mirror in the frame under the splitter. I had no idea there would be a pellicle mirror surface on the beam splitter itself.Is there a half silvered mirror beneath that looks mucked up? If that half silvered portion is damaged, it's dumpster fodder
If you have acces to the prisms, then using a film stripp off solution might be best. You also can leave the dried film until assembly and peel it off after assembly and dust blowing. It works really well.PauloM wrote:What's the safest way to clean those prisms? I've tried blowing the dust off with some success, but there are some stubborn specs that look like they won't come off unless some liquid is used.
Me too. I have Wild M20 which needs at least one prism resilvered. I found someone to do that but they will not remove or refit the prism.Retro wrote:Fantastic! That is the type of practical information I can use Gene.
It is I who should be apologizing for having cut in your thread.Retro wrote:Excuse me for cutting in PauloM...
That's a good idea. I was familiar with using those solutions for cleaning DSLR sensors, but had never thought about applying them to prisms or mirrors.lothman wrote:If you have acces to the prisms, then using a film stripp off solution might be best. You also can leave the dried film until assembly and peel it off after assembly and dust blowing. It works really well.
Oh, thats not good. Yes the Optiphot Labophot series trinoc heads all have the same selector rod design; namely screwed into the aluminium prism mount, which slides on a dovetail mated to the bottom mounting plate.No way to remove the bottom plate for cleaning acess, unless the rod is unscrewed. Furthermore, that rod is glued into the block with "Three Bond" or clear nail polish type glue. A heat gun on the rod softens the bond so it can be unscrewed. However, yours has stripped the aluminium prism mount threads. Either through overtightening, or forcing it without softening the glue and forcing the removal, the threads have been striped internally, not allowing the rod to unscrew. The rod itself has a relief in diameter between the end threaded portion, and the actual rod dia itself that is smaller than both. So the threads are holding the glued on stripped aluminuim from the prism block, but it can't unscrew past the intact part of aluminium block threads where the relief of the rod is.. You can try heat on the rod to soften the glued on remnats of aluminium, then pulling while unscrewing, but the sad fact is, the prism block is stripped. If you get it apart, and everything gets cleaned up and cleaned out, you might be able to cement the rod back in with some Araldite epoxy, but then you're done, it's not coming apart, ever again. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I've seen this twice before, and the correct fix is to buy a new prism mount, and remount the main prism in it, but don't plan on these still being available from Nikon any longer.PauloM wrote: My first thought was that I would have to turn it to "unscrew" it. But, turn as I may, it stays put. Also, when the knob's in the OUT position it feels rather wobbly, not sure if that's the expected behavior.
I see what you mean about the compatability. Although, in theory, because this is an infinity system we're dealing with, the position of the tube lens in the head should make no difference whatsoever. But you and I both know what they say about theories.Retro wrote: What you said in that post went right over my head I thought you were referring to the diagonal mirror in the frame under the splitter. I had no idea there would be a pellicle mirror surface on the beam splitter itself.
That AO head you pointed out looks great (Series 10 I think) but there might be a problem with compatibility... some pic's
After looking at that nice head you linked, I started pouring over the schematics for the Series 10 and the 150 for a couple of hours. They are pretty ambiguous because they include the linkages for the trinocular configurations all mixed in. The series 10 splitter mount does not have the 45° frame section. It's very difficult to see how the mechanism works but it occurred to me that when the tube prism swings out of the way the eyepiece light has to be blocked. So... that might be the reason for the splitter mirror.I believe the internal part you need is the same
