Hello folks,
Finally set aside the time and space to clean my 30yr old microscope and accessories. Lots of small screws, springs, bolts, etc. with old hardened oil/grease.
Goal is to remove the old oil, add a drop or two of new oil/grease where needed. Want all parts to work smoothly and without sticking. All parts are metal, mostly alum/steel/chrome steel/spring steel. Some parts are painted gray. No plastic parts or brass parts being cleaned.
Looking for a good degreaser that won't leave a residue. So far I have received recommendations of WD40, Liquid Wrench, and diesel, (if I don't mind the odor.)
Your recommendations/comments would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Hokan
What to use to clean old grease/oil my 30yr old microscope
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
often old grease can be solved with oily fluids like WD40, then you can rinse it in a solvent like benzine or even acetone (will probably also remove paint).
There are also a lot good soap liquids for ultra sonic cleaners, which do a great job when used with hot water.
Watchmakers in former times used a mix of soap (today dish cleaner), water and ammonia to solve old oil residues. I only tried that once
then bought an ultra sonic cleaner with heating.
There are also a lot good soap liquids for ultra sonic cleaners, which do a great job when used with hot water.
Watchmakers in former times used a mix of soap (today dish cleaner), water and ammonia to solve old oil residues. I only tried that once
then bought an ultra sonic cleaner with heating.
) and then just bunging them in the dishwasher. -
rjlittlefield
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Hokan, search the archives of the Yahoo Microscope group. They have frequent discussions of cleaning, with lots of what works and what to avoid (silicone, if there's the slightest chance it might work its way onto glass).
One thing that I've not seen mentioned in other discussions is to beware of black bushings. Quoting from my own description HERE:
One thing that I've not seen mentioned in other discussions is to beware of black bushings. Quoting from my own description HERE:
--RikCAUTION: the side bearing surfaces of the worm's brass enclosure are coated with some plastic material that can absorb oil, causing it to swell and jam up solid. This happened to me once -- the scope worked fine right after reassembly, was stiff by the next day, and on the second day was stuck so tight that it had to be disassembled by impact using a wooden dowel. After soaking overnight in solvent, followed by complete drying, the parts could be reassembled but were still too stiff to operate well. I ended up chucking the brass enclosure in a metal lathe and carefully shaving about 0.0005" off the plastic bearing surface, before everything worked well again. Next time, I lubed those surfaces with Nye Hobby Grease and made sure there was no liquid oil around.
Everything posted so far is good advice. Especially Riks'
I won't use silicone on any piece of optical gear after having occasion to work with it in an epoxy context and having it explained to me by the professors whose research was the context. I try not to use it at all except in situations where it is specifically indicated.
There is a non silicone product called Kroil that is $15 for a spray can in the US. It penetrates very well. I have found the price to be worth spending because it will loosen frozen bolts better than WD40. Almost any strong solvent can be used.
I had an old movie camera objective , made by Kern whose 30+ year old grease had corroded the barrel to the point that it could not be removed. After the optics carrier had been removed even soaking the corroded sleeve in methylene chloride did not free it (after a proper sequence of less aggressive solvents.) I was amazed at that. The two metal surfaces must have had highly interdigitated corrosion. It generated a tight interference fit.
After you have gotten the pieces apart you will want to relube them with something that will either not solidify,oxidize,polymerize or will do so very slowly.
The recommendation for Nye lubricants is a good one too. They used to make the oils used by watch and clockmakers. They are a New England company and their oils were generally based on whale oil which will not polymerize nor solidify at any temperatures normally encountered.
It might be possible to find a synthetic oil with similar characteristics.
I have used some teflon grease designed for use in high vacuum systems for lubing microscope ways that are very tightly fit. This material is not the best there is in terms of lubrication but it is probably the most stable material you can get. Google teflon grease.
I never use three in one oil for anything. I don't think it is resistant enough to oxidation and polymerization. And WD40 and liquid wrench are designed to penetrate and displace water but not to lubricate. They do not lubricate very well. You need to remove them completely. The ultrasonic is a good method. You can also use a steam cleaner which are now available very cheaply almost everywhere. I have a monster one and it will blow most seams open if you shoot steam into them. Never tried that on the Kern objective mentioned above but I think I will try it if I still have the frozen part.
I won't use silicone on any piece of optical gear after having occasion to work with it in an epoxy context and having it explained to me by the professors whose research was the context. I try not to use it at all except in situations where it is specifically indicated.
There is a non silicone product called Kroil that is $15 for a spray can in the US. It penetrates very well. I have found the price to be worth spending because it will loosen frozen bolts better than WD40. Almost any strong solvent can be used.
I had an old movie camera objective , made by Kern whose 30+ year old grease had corroded the barrel to the point that it could not be removed. After the optics carrier had been removed even soaking the corroded sleeve in methylene chloride did not free it (after a proper sequence of less aggressive solvents.) I was amazed at that. The two metal surfaces must have had highly interdigitated corrosion. It generated a tight interference fit.
After you have gotten the pieces apart you will want to relube them with something that will either not solidify,oxidize,polymerize or will do so very slowly.
The recommendation for Nye lubricants is a good one too. They used to make the oils used by watch and clockmakers. They are a New England company and their oils were generally based on whale oil which will not polymerize nor solidify at any temperatures normally encountered.
It might be possible to find a synthetic oil with similar characteristics.
I have used some teflon grease designed for use in high vacuum systems for lubing microscope ways that are very tightly fit. This material is not the best there is in terms of lubrication but it is probably the most stable material you can get. Google teflon grease.
I never use three in one oil for anything. I don't think it is resistant enough to oxidation and polymerization. And WD40 and liquid wrench are designed to penetrate and displace water but not to lubricate. They do not lubricate very well. You need to remove them completely. The ultrasonic is a good method. You can also use a steam cleaner which are now available very cheaply almost everywhere. I have a monster one and it will blow most seams open if you shoot steam into them. Never tried that on the Kern objective mentioned above but I think I will try it if I still have the frozen part.
-
rjlittlefield
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I'm pretty sure Nye lubricants are all synthetic now. They stopped selling the whale-oil stuff around 1978. It's a fascinating story. I bought a copy of the book for my Dad a couple of years ago.g4lab wrote:They are a New England company and their oils were generally based on whale oil which will not polymerize nor solidify at any temperatures normally encountered. It might be possible to find a synthetic oil with similar characteristics.
--Rik
I had well oxidised grease on the slide of a 50year old microscope. I've usually used ipa and other solvent but picked up the wrong bottle without looking at the label. Rather silly thing to do but in this case it's proved useful. The bottle contained teepol. This is a standard laboratory glass ware cleaner - ie nothing other than a liquid soap. It removed the grease which had gone black easily. I used it neat. I usually use it diluted in an ultrasonic cleaner for things like carburettor jets and clock parts. It's very effective and can be easily wiped off with a damp cloth.
Some one mentioned clock cleaners with ammonia in them. Not so sure about that as these brighten brass. Lighter fuel is also used on watches but watch out for any effect on paintwork. The fumes are also explosive.
Re greasing has been something of a problem. Most greases and oils evaporate - not a good idea on a microscope. I've used a very thin smear of black castrol grease with moly in it without any problems so far but it's rather thin. I've intended to look at various fire arm and air gun related greases. It's important that some of these do not give of hydrocarbons for obvious reasons. One type is also used on air fittings on scuba diving equipment but may be silicon based. These creep. I've seen walls covered with silicon oil 6 or more feet away from a vat of the stuff - ceiling too. Marine greases may be of interest. They are usually thick and intended to stay put.
Where oil must be used clock oils have to be good bet. Even the cheap ones wont oxidise for many years but take care as many are very thin. The fully synthetic ones are rather expensive and very specialised.
As wd40 etc evaporates I've always removed all traces with a decent detergent. It tends to get every where and is bound to fog optics eventually.
John
Some one mentioned clock cleaners with ammonia in them. Not so sure about that as these brighten brass. Lighter fuel is also used on watches but watch out for any effect on paintwork. The fumes are also explosive.
Re greasing has been something of a problem. Most greases and oils evaporate - not a good idea on a microscope. I've used a very thin smear of black castrol grease with moly in it without any problems so far but it's rather thin. I've intended to look at various fire arm and air gun related greases. It's important that some of these do not give of hydrocarbons for obvious reasons. One type is also used on air fittings on scuba diving equipment but may be silicon based. These creep. I've seen walls covered with silicon oil 6 or more feet away from a vat of the stuff - ceiling too. Marine greases may be of interest. They are usually thick and intended to stay put.
Where oil must be used clock oils have to be good bet. Even the cheap ones wont oxidise for many years but take care as many are very thin. The fully synthetic ones are rather expensive and very specialised.
As wd40 etc evaporates I've always removed all traces with a decent detergent. It tends to get every where and is bound to fog optics eventually.
John
What to use to clean old grease/oil my 30yr old microscope
Folks,
Thanks for the suggestions. The situation I am now aware of is there are two or more types of microscope lubricating needs. The thicker axle grease type need and the more thinner type of "3 in 1" oil need. Right now I am using WD-40 to clean the old grease, oil from microscope parts. I then re-oil the "3 in 1" oil microscope parts with Nye Clock oil, (flows easily, doesn't evaporate or gum up, stays put). Working with my friendly Zeiss service tech. to procure some "microscope compatible grease" for use where appropriate. So far everything is working smoother, easier, and sometimes faster i.e. mechanized parts.
Advice much appreciated.
Hokan
Thanks for the suggestions. The situation I am now aware of is there are two or more types of microscope lubricating needs. The thicker axle grease type need and the more thinner type of "3 in 1" oil need. Right now I am using WD-40 to clean the old grease, oil from microscope parts. I then re-oil the "3 in 1" oil microscope parts with Nye Clock oil, (flows easily, doesn't evaporate or gum up, stays put). Working with my friendly Zeiss service tech. to procure some "microscope compatible grease" for use where appropriate. So far everything is working smoother, easier, and sometimes faster i.e. mechanized parts.
Advice much appreciated.
Hokan