Advice needed for metal repair

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AndrewC
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Post by AndrewC »

Planapo wrote:Thanks guys for your further support!

Right Andrew, I will start with the simple approach first. Unfortunately the nut is screwed on quite tight, I think something like NU showed is needed.

But I do appreciate to learn a bit about metal work, so thanks for mentioning the "pin vise", elf. Do I get this right that these holes are drilled by hand with this "pin vise"? I had thought one would need a drill press. But I still can't figure how it is operated be hand to get the lots of rotation though... Maybe like the Brownie Scout's way of fire making with dry sticks? Doesn´t that give one blisters until the hole is done? (If you ever want to know how to knit socks or a jumper, feel free to ask me :lol: ).

Nonetheless things are still getting a little more annoying: Just tried to screw off the broken base of that mounting block but none of our hex/Allen wrenches wanted to fit in these screw heads ... :smt017
:smt119 Dang! All of these screws and threaded holes on that table seem to be non-metric! ](*,)

Hope the local screw dealer has such exotic non-metric hex wrenches... last time I got ripped off there when buying whitworth threaded screws to fit in 1/4" or 3/8" threaded holes of camera gear..

--Betty :smt109 - having fun :roll:
It's always nice having a metric and imperial set of tools. I've lived both sides of the pond so I've two sets of spanners, drills, hex keys etc but still can never find the one I want. Luckily hammers and vice grips are universal :)

Have you tried something as simple as grabbing the nut with a pair of pliers ?

Pin vices can be used for holding small drill bits and hand drilling by twirling it between your fingertips. In my experience works fine on soft wood but good luck trying to drill a hole in metal with it. You're better off with a Dremmel and some safety glasses.

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

Betty,

I once tried to loosen one of those retaining rings on a Newport micrometer and it was really on there! Wasn't coming off without a spanner wrench.

I wouldn't worry about dis-assembly if you are going with the "superglue" approach. Just make sure the pieces mesh nicely first (brush or blow out any loose particles) and you should get a good result.

However if you are like me, after holding the pieces together to set, you will spend the next 10 minutes trying to free your fingers from the metal! :roll:

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Charles Krebs wrote:However if you are like me, after holding the pieces together to set, you will spend the next 10 minutes trying to free your fingers from the metal! :roll:
:smt043 Been there, done that -- more times than I want to think about! :smt043

I agree, no disassembly needed. Just glue it where it sits. Carefully, of course -- you don't want to get any glue in the slide either.

Practice several times putting the parts together and holding them for a minute or two, until you can do it reliably while keeping your fingers away from the joint. You want to have the procedure down pat before you put the glue in.

--Rik

augusthouse
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Post by augusthouse »

Betty,

Is there a model number on the Newport linear translation stage?

Craig
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"

Planapo
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Post by Planapo »

Thanks guys!

Yeah Charlie, that minimally invasive approach is really a good idea. If it works, I will only need the glue and a non-metric hex wrench to get off that huge loop of a lens holder that is still ontop of the stage. Will need that non-metric hex wrench later anyway to screw my stuff ontop of the stage using the non-metric threaded holes.
Jeez boys, :wink: :wink: why can´t you finally get civilized over there and adopt the metric system! :wink: :wink: :) Really, these inches and fractions of inches are so annoying!

And regarding the cyanacrylat or epoxy glue I'm gonna get me the clear runny stuff, that will nicely go in a thin layer between the crystals of the facture, and not such glue with metal bits in it, like in some of the "cold-weld" glues because that´s to thick and paste-like, right?!

Craig, it´s the 426.

--Betty

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

Betty,
why can´t you finally get civilized over there and adopt the metric system!
Oh yeah! :wink:

Well my 426 is full of these stupid 6mm metric holes. None of my 1/4-20 stuff fits! :roll:

NikonUser
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Post by NikonUser »

Betty:
Remember "over there" does include some civilized folks; heck Canada (that's the big bit above the smaller bit on the map) has been metric for years. It did take us Brits quite a while to work out if a weather forecast of 18C was going to be a warm or a cold day.
NU.
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Quote – Holmes on ‘Entomology’
” I suppose you are an entomologist ? “
” Not quite so ambitious as that, sir. I should like to put my eyes on the individual entitled to that name.
No man can be truly called an entomologist,
sir; the subject is too vast for any single human intelligence to grasp.”
Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr
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rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

NikonUser wrote:It did take us Brits quite a while to work out if a weather forecast of 18C was going to be a warm or a cold day.
I still have two 45-minute lectures built around that question! :D

--Rik

NikonUser
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Post by NikonUser »

rjlittlefield wrote:I still have two 45-minute lectures built around that question!

--Rik
I suspect the answer is neither. Warm and cold are anthropomorphisms. (There you go Rik, just saved you 90mins of lecturing).
Actually, 18C is a pleasant temperature.
NU.
student of entomology
Quote – Holmes on ‘Entomology’
” I suppose you are an entomologist ? “
” Not quite so ambitious as that, sir. I should like to put my eyes on the individual entitled to that name.
No man can be truly called an entomologist,
sir; the subject is too vast for any single human intelligence to grasp.”
Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr
The Poet at the Breakfast Table.

Nikon camera, lenses and objectives
Olympus microscope and objectives

AndrewC
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Post by AndrewC »

Planapo wrote:"cold-weld" glues because that´s to thick and paste-like, right?!
A trick with lots of epoxies is to warm them slightly with a hair dryer, or dunk the tubes in a cup of hot water for a few minutes before mixing - they get very thin and runny and can be used for fine joints. If you do that use a slow set epoxy as warm quick set will set very, very quickly

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Speaking of epoxies, I was surprised yesterday to read in the Wikipedia article that white vinegar is a good solvent for cleanup.

I tried it against some epoxy smeared on my fingers. Seemed to work pretty well on the thin film left after I wiped off as much as I could. Didn't do much against a thicker layer, though.

In your experience, what's the best way to clean up?

--Rik

AndrewC
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Post by AndrewC »

rjlittlefield wrote:Speaking of epoxies, I was surprised yesterday to read in the Wikipedia article that white vinegar is a good solvent for cleanup.

I tried it against some epoxy smeared on my fingers. Seemed to work pretty well on the thin film left after I wiped off as much as I could. Didn't do much against a thicker layer, though.

In your experience, what's the best way to clean up?

--Rik
Vinegar ? Never tried that but if memory serves me correctly about the one thing most domestic epoxies are not good for is acetic acid resistance. Just checked the Devcon data sheet and it confirms that. I'm plasma physicist not a chemist so god knows why ! Interestingly Devcon don't say how to clean up residue and neither do a couple of other manufacturers I just checked. IPA or lots of soap and water seems to work sometimes but I usually try and remember to wear latex gloves and not touch anything.

Harold Gough
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Post by Harold Gough »

But why white vinegar? Surely any will do.

Harold
My images are a medium for sharing some of my experiences: they are not me.

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Seems like it. On second look, the Wikipedia article says "white vinegar" in only one place; all the others are just "vinegar".

Google on "epoxy cleanup" turns up lots of hits that recommend vinegar over acetone because of absorption issues.

The boat-builders also caution against getting sensitized to the stuff -- seems you'll never work with it again if you ever do. Probably not a problem with once-a-year contact of a small drop, but regular contact with very much seems like a bad idea.

--Rik

Harold Gough
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Post by Harold Gough »

NikonUser wrote: It did take us Brits quite a while to work out if a weather forecast of 18C was going to be a warm or a cold day.
"Mild" is a special case and always has to have the season and prevailing temperatures factored in before it can be understood. :roll:

Harold
My images are a medium for sharing some of my experiences: they are not me.

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