I am just getting into macro photography of small flowers and bugs in the field. It has became obvious to me that I need to add a focus slide/rail to my tripod to facilitate my camera alignment to a subject and in the future, for taking multiple images for use with the Halcyon software.
I am looking for recommendations and comments about the advantages/disadvantages of various models of slides. What is the minimum focus range that is recommended for this type of photography? How important is the cross slide direction? Does one just rely on the tripod adjustment for vertical adjustments?
Price is of some concern but not critical for I plan to keep this item for a long time and one never saves money by buying an item that is not up to the task. One will just have to upgrade in the future after a period of frustration.
Some slides that I have looked:
Manfrotto, Valbon, Novoflex,
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/723/ ... Rails.html
Adorama
http://www.adorama.com/MCFRS.html?searc ... item_no=22
I am sure that there are other options that I do not know about but so far I am leaning toward the Adorama focusing rail. It looks like a solid design and has a cross slide. It also looks like the center of gravity of a camera setup (mounted by means of a lens mount) would be nominally over the center of the slides which would add to stability.
My current macro equipment: Canon 40D, Canon 100 mm lens, Canon 1.4 extender and a set of extension tubes.
Thanks for you thoughts.
Bob
Help - slide/rail tradeoff
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rjlittlefield
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Bob, welcome aboard! 
You've come to the right place for advice.
I'm going to break with tradition, though, and not offer much of my own, at least at the moment. Most of my own work is tabletop with a stacking setup, not tripod based. We have other members who have much more experience in macro shooting from tripods.
While you're waiting for their specific comments, you might want to search the forums. especially the Equipment Discussions, for terms like "Novoflex", "rack", "rail", and "slide". There's one topic at http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... php?t=3337 that looks particularly on point for your interests.
Again, welcome aboard! We hope to hear & see a lot more from you in the future.
--Rik
You've come to the right place for advice.I'm going to break with tradition, though, and not offer much of my own, at least at the moment. Most of my own work is tabletop with a stacking setup, not tripod based. We have other members who have much more experience in macro shooting from tripods.
While you're waiting for their specific comments, you might want to search the forums. especially the Equipment Discussions, for terms like "Novoflex", "rack", "rail", and "slide". There's one topic at http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... php?t=3337 that looks particularly on point for your interests.
Again, welcome aboard! We hope to hear & see a lot more from you in the future.
--Rik
Thank you for your reply.
I had already tried the searches you recommend prior to my posting and had located the one you referenced (which I found very helpful). It was, in fact, the high quality of the info I found during my searches on this site that convinced me to join this group.
I also found that I have a lot to learn on this subject and that there is some fantastic talent on this site. I look forward to getting more involved in this aspect of photography.
Thanks again for you taking the time to respond.
Bob
I had already tried the searches you recommend prior to my posting and had located the one you referenced (which I found very helpful). It was, in fact, the high quality of the info I found during my searches on this site that convinced me to join this group.
I also found that I have a lot to learn on this subject and that there is some fantastic talent on this site. I look forward to getting more involved in this aspect of photography.
Thanks again for you taking the time to respond.
Bob
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rjlittlefield
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Bob,
Great -- thanks for the clarification.
It's a good question you ask, about the vertical adjustments.
There do exist geared tripod heads, such as http://www.adorama.com/BG3275.html?sear ... &item_no=3 . In theory, those provide fine control of pan and tilt, to complement the focusing rail's control of camera-to-subject distance. In practice, I don't know because I've never worked with one.
I do own one of the Adorama dual-axis rails. It's a competent piece of equipment, with reliable movements down to 1/2 mm or less, about 9 cm total motion.
For vertical adjustment on tripod, I've always relied on the tripod head combined with some slight jockying of the tripod feet to make minor adjustments. But I've never really felt like that was a very good technique, and I'll be interested to hear how the gurus like Charlie do it.
--Rik
Great -- thanks for the clarification.
It's a good question you ask, about the vertical adjustments.
There do exist geared tripod heads, such as http://www.adorama.com/BG3275.html?sear ... &item_no=3 . In theory, those provide fine control of pan and tilt, to complement the focusing rail's control of camera-to-subject distance. In practice, I don't know because I've never worked with one.
I do own one of the Adorama dual-axis rails. It's a competent piece of equipment, with reliable movements down to 1/2 mm or less, about 9 cm total motion.
For vertical adjustment on tripod, I've always relied on the tripod head combined with some slight jockying of the tripod feet to make minor adjustments. But I've never really felt like that was a very good technique, and I'll be interested to hear how the gurus like Charlie do it.
--Rik
Well, you could just make your own: http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... php?t=3830
In practice, I've found my tripod isn't as stable as I thought when I purchased it. The pano head is stable, but the legs aren't. I need to wait from 5 to 10 seconds after touching the camera or pano head before taking a shot. For me the biggest problem isn't focusing, but having enough light (either natural or flash) to be able to stop the subject motion.
In practice, I've found my tripod isn't as stable as I thought when I purchased it. The pano head is stable, but the legs aren't. I need to wait from 5 to 10 seconds after touching the camera or pano head before taking a shot. For me the biggest problem isn't focusing, but having enough light (either natural or flash) to be able to stop the subject motion.
Elf,
It certainly looks like versatile setup. I started out as a machinist but that was a lifetime ago and I no longer have access to any equipment (I spent my last 33 years as a nerd Optical Engineer.) As for the tripod, I have a Gitzo G-2257 from my more conventional photography that I think (hope?) will be adequate as long as I can find a good mounting surface for the legs. I have also started using a cable release with mirror lockup and a 2 second shutter delay.
As for lighting I made an adapter for my external flash that breaks the light two beams and pipes the beams around so they converge onto the subject from each side and slightly above. So far it seems to work quite well but, as I stated before, I am very new to the world of macro photography and have a lot to learn. I will send the details of this adapter to the forum next week for comments and thoughts on how to improve its design.
Bob
It certainly looks like versatile setup. I started out as a machinist but that was a lifetime ago and I no longer have access to any equipment (I spent my last 33 years as a nerd Optical Engineer.) As for the tripod, I have a Gitzo G-2257 from my more conventional photography that I think (hope?) will be adequate as long as I can find a good mounting surface for the legs. I have also started using a cable release with mirror lockup and a 2 second shutter delay.
As for lighting I made an adapter for my external flash that breaks the light two beams and pipes the beams around so they converge onto the subject from each side and slightly above. So far it seems to work quite well but, as I stated before, I am very new to the world of macro photography and have a lot to learn. I will send the details of this adapter to the forum next week for comments and thoughts on how to improve its design.
Bob
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Charles Krebs
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Bob,
Welcome!
People find different solutions with which they are comfortable. For me, equipment that I carry around and use outdoors needs to be simple but effective. It can be quite different from what I like to use indoors on a tabletop setup in a "static" situation. Outdoors I've never really felt the need to have a focus rail that provided travel in two directions. (I imagine if stereo photography is of interest this could be different). If you've looked over the link Rik mentioned, you know my preference for the Novoflex illustrated there.
I'm actually more concerned with having a very solid and stable configuration for outdoor use. Inside, in controlled conditions with a stationary subject, I can use mirror lock-up, long exposures, and a variety of techniques to deal with the vibration issues that arise with an SLR when used for higher magnifications. But outdoors I am often forced to watch through the viewfinder and wait for a very brief lull in the breeze, or the fraction of a second when a subject pauses or moves it's head into just the "right" position. In these cases I often need to shoot without using a mirror lock-up or an other delay. So I want things to be locked down as effectively as possible to minimize the effect of mirror/shutter vibrations.
All of my tripod heads, fittings, and rails are selected or modified so that all connections are "metal-to metal", and maintain as low a profile as possible. I used to teach outdoor workshops. Occasionally you would work with someone with a tall tripod head (like the Bogen pistol grip models). They would have a quick release clamp on that. On top of that would be a two axis focus rail with the attached quick-release plate on the bottom. (And perhaps even a quick release clamp on top of that to receive the plate that was attached to the camera body!). This raised the camera a huge amount up from the tripod apex (where the legs meet). There might have been 4 (or more!) surface connections that had cork or rubber "pads"... each allowing a little "give" and movement. A disaster.
I prefer a good solid ball-head with the Novoflex rail attached to it for outdoor tripod based macro work.
Charlie
Welcome!
People find different solutions with which they are comfortable. For me, equipment that I carry around and use outdoors needs to be simple but effective. It can be quite different from what I like to use indoors on a tabletop setup in a "static" situation. Outdoors I've never really felt the need to have a focus rail that provided travel in two directions. (I imagine if stereo photography is of interest this could be different). If you've looked over the link Rik mentioned, you know my preference for the Novoflex illustrated there.
I'm actually more concerned with having a very solid and stable configuration for outdoor use. Inside, in controlled conditions with a stationary subject, I can use mirror lock-up, long exposures, and a variety of techniques to deal with the vibration issues that arise with an SLR when used for higher magnifications. But outdoors I am often forced to watch through the viewfinder and wait for a very brief lull in the breeze, or the fraction of a second when a subject pauses or moves it's head into just the "right" position. In these cases I often need to shoot without using a mirror lock-up or an other delay. So I want things to be locked down as effectively as possible to minimize the effect of mirror/shutter vibrations.
All of my tripod heads, fittings, and rails are selected or modified so that all connections are "metal-to metal", and maintain as low a profile as possible. I used to teach outdoor workshops. Occasionally you would work with someone with a tall tripod head (like the Bogen pistol grip models). They would have a quick release clamp on that. On top of that would be a two axis focus rail with the attached quick-release plate on the bottom. (And perhaps even a quick release clamp on top of that to receive the plate that was attached to the camera body!). This raised the camera a huge amount up from the tripod apex (where the legs meet). There might have been 4 (or more!) surface connections that had cork or rubber "pads"... each allowing a little "give" and movement. A disaster.
I prefer a good solid ball-head with the Novoflex rail attached to it for outdoor tripod based macro work.
Charlie
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Charles Krebs
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Bob,
Recommending a ball head is tougher. Mainly because there are so many excellent ones available now. And the head I use most often is the same one I started using in 1975! It is the original Arca-Swiss Monoball. It is big, heavy, and I love it. It's been discontinued for a long time. Some of the newer ball heads are smaller, lighter and stronger, but I just like the "feel" and operation of this oldie.
A couple of things need to be considered first. What mounting "system" will you use... the 1/4-20 thread or a quick-release. If you are thinking of a quick-release, I strongly recommend the Arca-Swiss style. It is supported by a variety of companies now. Arca-Swiss (naturally. Great products. Readily available, but poor marketing). Really Right Stuff (excellent quality and range of products. When considering mounting hardware a visit to their site is a must!), Wimberley (known for their big lens gimbal heads, but also very high quality lens plates and other accessories).
Then you need to consider the largest (heaviest) camera equipment you will likely be using. I really like ball-heads for SLR's as long as I am not regularly using lenses larger than 300-400mm. Also consider the tripod legs are you using, and weight issues. Within reason, you want a head of a size and weight that makes sense on the legs you are using. (For example, the Arca Monoball I like is far too big to be a reasonable head on my Gitzo G1228).
Also, do you want a "panning" base that locks separately from the main ball? Often this is nice to have, most people prefer this. Sometime I actually prefer a single control knob that gives complete free movement all around.
Some heads have nice "in-between" tension. Others seem to be either "tight" or "loose" with little in between. Which is better? Depends what you like and what you are doing.
At the high end ($) now you might want to look at the Really Right Stuff BH-55 and BH-40. Also, the latest Arca-Swiss Z1 looks like a good piece. (I never really warmed to the Arca-Swiss B1 like so many did. The Z1 looks very similar, but there are some improvements). I have a Linhof Profi II, which is beautifully made, but I don't care for the way it locks up. If I was going to spend the big bucks, the RRS heads and the Arca Z1 would be the first two I would check out. They are medium size and weight, but very strong and well made and can be used on just about any legs.
But you don't really need to spend that kind of money to get a good head. On my lightweight Gitzo I use a Slik SBH-550. It has a single knob control. When loosened everything frees up (some may not like this type of operation... no separate rotating base). It is quite strong when tightened. Well made and moderately priced (about $160).
Giottos makes some nice heads that are also modest in price. Worth considering.
A very decent low priced head would be the Slik Standard Ballhead II (about $50).
Frankly, there are so many nice ones it it hard to be specific. There are many manufacturers I haven't even mentioned that make excellent products. Kirk Enterprises, Bogen/Manfrotto, Gitzo, Novoflex, Markin, Foba all make heads I could probably be very happy with. It's like trying to answer the question "what's a good car for me?"
Charlie
Recommending a ball head is tougher. Mainly because there are so many excellent ones available now. And the head I use most often is the same one I started using in 1975! It is the original Arca-Swiss Monoball. It is big, heavy, and I love it. It's been discontinued for a long time. Some of the newer ball heads are smaller, lighter and stronger, but I just like the "feel" and operation of this oldie.
A couple of things need to be considered first. What mounting "system" will you use... the 1/4-20 thread or a quick-release. If you are thinking of a quick-release, I strongly recommend the Arca-Swiss style. It is supported by a variety of companies now. Arca-Swiss (naturally. Great products. Readily available, but poor marketing). Really Right Stuff (excellent quality and range of products. When considering mounting hardware a visit to their site is a must!), Wimberley (known for their big lens gimbal heads, but also very high quality lens plates and other accessories).
Then you need to consider the largest (heaviest) camera equipment you will likely be using. I really like ball-heads for SLR's as long as I am not regularly using lenses larger than 300-400mm. Also consider the tripod legs are you using, and weight issues. Within reason, you want a head of a size and weight that makes sense on the legs you are using. (For example, the Arca Monoball I like is far too big to be a reasonable head on my Gitzo G1228).
Also, do you want a "panning" base that locks separately from the main ball? Often this is nice to have, most people prefer this. Sometime I actually prefer a single control knob that gives complete free movement all around.
Some heads have nice "in-between" tension. Others seem to be either "tight" or "loose" with little in between. Which is better? Depends what you like and what you are doing.
At the high end ($) now you might want to look at the Really Right Stuff BH-55 and BH-40. Also, the latest Arca-Swiss Z1 looks like a good piece. (I never really warmed to the Arca-Swiss B1 like so many did. The Z1 looks very similar, but there are some improvements). I have a Linhof Profi II, which is beautifully made, but I don't care for the way it locks up. If I was going to spend the big bucks, the RRS heads and the Arca Z1 would be the first two I would check out. They are medium size and weight, but very strong and well made and can be used on just about any legs.
But you don't really need to spend that kind of money to get a good head. On my lightweight Gitzo I use a Slik SBH-550. It has a single knob control. When loosened everything frees up (some may not like this type of operation... no separate rotating base). It is quite strong when tightened. Well made and moderately priced (about $160).
Giottos makes some nice heads that are also modest in price. Worth considering.
A very decent low priced head would be the Slik Standard Ballhead II (about $50).
Frankly, there are so many nice ones it it hard to be specific. There are many manufacturers I haven't even mentioned that make excellent products. Kirk Enterprises, Bogen/Manfrotto, Gitzo, Novoflex, Markin, Foba all make heads I could probably be very happy with. It's like trying to answer the question "what's a good car for me?"
Charlie