I'm a relative newcomer to macro photography - so far limited to 5x with my MPE-65 lens on a horizontally mounted homebrew rail.
I've set myself a target of getting to 20x and assume I'll have to use microscope objectives to get to this level of magnification.
I've a lot to learn I know - but I'd appreciate any pointers for what objectives are recommended, particularly those that may be found second-user.
I also believe that it is possible to 'stack' an objective in front of a prime lens?
I assumed I'd have to use bellows or extension tubes?
Again any pointers to information would be much appreciated.
Chas
Getting started with objectives
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Welcome to the forum Chas!
Do have a read in the FAQ Forum. Many common questions are answered in there. But not all, so feel free to come back.
See the thread on how to fix objectives to your camera.
The thread on buying new objectives may reveal some surprises. Some very good new 4x and 10x objectives don't cost the earth. 20x up is not so easy.
We look forward to hearing how you progress
.
Do have a read in the FAQ Forum. Many common questions are answered in there. But not all, so feel free to come back.
See the thread on how to fix objectives to your camera.
The thread on buying new objectives may reveal some surprises. Some very good new 4x and 10x objectives don't cost the earth. 20x up is not so easy.
We look forward to hearing how you progress
.
Last edited by ChrisR on Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Chris R
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DesolateMirror
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:13 pm
Welcome cws1745
Like Chris mentioned there are some inexpensive objectives, though I haven't looked into the matter for over a year now so I don't know what the really new cheapish 4x and 10x objectives are.
Check out this post: https://www.closeuphotography.com/seven ... -objective
The AmScope 4x plan objective is very cheap and a great way to get into using objectives on your camera.
ps. ChrisR, what would be the 10x one?
thanks.
Like Chris mentioned there are some inexpensive objectives, though I haven't looked into the matter for over a year now so I don't know what the really new cheapish 4x and 10x objectives are.
Check out this post: https://www.closeuphotography.com/seven ... -objective
The AmScope 4x plan objective is very cheap and a great way to get into using objectives on your camera.
ps. ChrisR, what would be the 10x one?
thanks.That Amscope is great, though be careful, there are similar-looking ones about which may not be as good.
This thread http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=27205
mentions the new ones I was thinking of.
The Nikon BE 4x is at least as good as the Amscope.
If you do a forum search on the names you'll find a few trials.
A lot of middle aged 10x finite objectives, turn out to be not bad, if they weren't designed for further correction in the eyepiece. I tried a few £10 ones which were "OK", though the field coverage isn't wide. Back then more of us were using full frame cameras where it showed particularly.
Old model Nikon Zeiss, Leica and Olympus did need chromatic correction, and it shows to a variable extent.
The old British makers - Watson, Vickers and others can be very cheap.
Lomo is a make worth a cheap risk for their objectives up to 10X.
The 3.7x is particularly good, and you'll see many examples here from the 8x NA 0.2.
We are seeing more and more very cheap objectives from China. It would be wrong to generalise, but reports from some $30 models have been encouraging.
It bears repeating - be sure to know whether you want a finite (for bellows) or an infinite (for putting on another lens) objective.
This thread http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=27205
mentions the new ones I was thinking of.
The Nikon BE 4x is at least as good as the Amscope.
If you do a forum search on the names you'll find a few trials.
A lot of middle aged 10x finite objectives, turn out to be not bad, if they weren't designed for further correction in the eyepiece. I tried a few £10 ones which were "OK", though the field coverage isn't wide. Back then more of us were using full frame cameras where it showed particularly.
Old model Nikon Zeiss, Leica and Olympus did need chromatic correction, and it shows to a variable extent.
The old British makers - Watson, Vickers and others can be very cheap.
Lomo is a make worth a cheap risk for their objectives up to 10X.
The 3.7x is particularly good, and you'll see many examples here from the 8x NA 0.2.
We are seeing more and more very cheap objectives from China. It would be wrong to generalise, but reports from some $30 models have been encouraging.
It bears repeating - be sure to know whether you want a finite (for bellows) or an infinite (for putting on another lens) objective.
Chris R
Objective for 20x
Many thanks for the information.
To be more specific I'm looking in particular for an objective to mount in front of my Canon 180mm macro lens. I have a step down mounts for Nikon threads and RMS threads already.
Unfortunately, my limited knowledge has so far stopped me from buying an objective to achieve 20x - the Mitutoyo or JML out of my budget.
I understand this means buying an infinite objective - but does anyone have a recommendation for a specific lens to narrow down the risks of me buying the wrong thing (once again!).
All advice gratefully received.
To be more specific I'm looking in particular for an objective to mount in front of my Canon 180mm macro lens. I have a step down mounts for Nikon threads and RMS threads already.
Unfortunately, my limited knowledge has so far stopped me from buying an objective to achieve 20x - the Mitutoyo or JML out of my budget.
I understand this means buying an infinite objective - but does anyone have a recommendation for a specific lens to narrow down the risks of me buying the wrong thing (once again!).
All advice gratefully received.
The lowest price reasonably easy to get 20x is a finite, the Nikon 20 NA 0.4 ELWD for a 210mm "tube length".
It's not as good as a Mitty, but a lot of nice pictures have been taken with them.
Here was one in the US, about as cheap as they go, and from a good seller.
ebay 223042988477
There is an infinite version, but it's not seen as much.
It's not as good as a Mitty, but a lot of nice pictures have been taken with them.
Here was one in the US, about as cheap as they go, and from a good seller.
ebay 223042988477
There is an infinite version, but it's not seen as much.
Chris R
Hi Chas,
Yes, Nikon LU Plan 20x/0.40 ELWD is a really good lens but you will have to manage the removing of the CA.
Usually I remove the CA in two steps.
Firstly by LR during the conversion from RAW into the TIFF and secondly by PS from the finished stack as follows:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
BTW, using the Mitty 20x I can skip the both steps :-)
BR, ADi
Yes, Nikon LU Plan 20x/0.40 ELWD is a really good lens but you will have to manage the removing of the CA.
Usually I remove the CA in two steps.
Firstly by LR during the conversion from RAW into the TIFF and secondly by PS from the finished stack as follows:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
BTW, using the Mitty 20x I can skip the both steps :-)
BR, ADi
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viktor j nilsson
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 1:43 am
- Location: Lund, Sweden
If you're on a budget, it's also worth considering the non-ELWD versions of the Nikon 20x 0.4 210mm objectives. These can be found cheaper, sometimes a lot cheaper. The M Plan has 2.7 mm WD and the BD plan has a similar WD removing the barrel. Nikola Rahmé has taken some really good photos with this lens. He actually preferred the regular version, although I believe that he has since upgraded.ChrisR wrote:The lowest price reasonably easy to get 20x is a finite, the Nikon 20 NA 0.4 ELWD for a 210mm "tube length".
It's not as good as a Mitty, but a lot of nice pictures have been taken with them.
Here was one in the US, about as cheap as they go, and from a good seller.
ebay 223042988477
There is an infinite version, but it's not seen as much.
Longer WD is nice, but for a lot of subjects, 2.7mm WD is perfectly doable.
That's true - the front element is small and after removing a "BD" shroud there isn't much metal. The access angle is the same of course, as it's the same NA, give or take the thickness of that ring of metal.
I think the LU objectives will be quite a bit more $$ than the 210mm finite, though.
There is another which I remember someone saying was good - the 20x NA 0.5. That has about 3.5mm of WD. It's Biological, but apparently the lack of glass isn't enough to be a problem.
I think the LU objectives will be quite a bit more $$ than the 210mm finite, though.
There is another which I remember someone saying was good - the 20x NA 0.5. That has about 3.5mm of WD. It's Biological, but apparently the lack of glass isn't enough to be a problem.
Chris R
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viktor j nilsson
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 1:43 am
- Location: Lund, Sweden
Ah yes, I should've said that it's the BD plan 20x 0.4 210mm objective that' might be worth considering if the price is right. I have a $25 BD plan 20x that I like quite a bit for stacking. 2.7mm sounds like a very short WD, but when you see it in real life, it's actually not that tight.
The M Plan contains the same glass, but has a much wider "nose" than the BD without the barrel. I don't think the barrel of the M Plan can be unscrewed in the same way as the BD. I actually have a M Plan 20x 0.4 DIC 210mm objective that came with some DIC stuff I bought recently. Haven't tried it on the bellows, but it's probably going to be almost impossible to get good light on the subject.
The M Plan contains the same glass, but has a much wider "nose" than the BD without the barrel. I don't think the barrel of the M Plan can be unscrewed in the same way as the BD. I actually have a M Plan 20x 0.4 DIC 210mm objective that came with some DIC stuff I bought recently. Haven't tried it on the bellows, but it's probably going to be almost impossible to get good light on the subject.
I use the BD plans on my Optiphot microscope. They are very nice to look trough - and sometimes can give nice pictures.
But they do have CA problems that is more or less pronounced depending on the light and the subject. This is the worst example I have in the drawer - a blue/violet butterfly scale with a black scale behind it. The light was the quite hard darkfield light. Nikon BD plan 20x 210/0. Not sure if this was with the ELWD or the DIC.
Best regards
Jörgen Hellberg
But they do have CA problems that is more or less pronounced depending on the light and the subject. This is the worst example I have in the drawer - a blue/violet butterfly scale with a black scale behind it. The light was the quite hard darkfield light. Nikon BD plan 20x 210/0. Not sure if this was with the ELWD or the DIC.
Best regards
Jörgen Hellberg
Jörgen Hellberg, my webbsite www.hellberg.photo