Nikon FL illuminator
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
When you add the extra 50mm the distance increase from the neccesary 160mm to 210mm the lenses handles this so you can use your 160mm objectives.
Best regards
Jörgen Hellberg
Best regards
Jörgen Hellberg
Jörgen Hellberg, my webbsite www.hellberg.photo
Jörgen is right.
The lower one (negative telan lens) is divergent, creating an infinite corrected space, the upper one is convergent (tube lens or positive telan lens) restoring the right tube length. Flat optical elements like fluorescence filters do not induce spherical aberration when placed inside the infinite space.
The modern infinite corrected microscopes don't need the lower one and have the tube lens integrated at the microscope head.
The lower one (negative telan lens) is divergent, creating an infinite corrected space, the upper one is convergent (tube lens or positive telan lens) restoring the right tube length. Flat optical elements like fluorescence filters do not induce spherical aberration when placed inside the infinite space.
The modern infinite corrected microscopes don't need the lower one and have the tube lens integrated at the microscope head.
Pau
Jörgen , John & Pau, thank you very much !
My very initial idea :
If I'll maintain right distances (using with/without head & different adapters) with Mitutoyo & other objectives, should I remove them ?
How much they are affecting image quality ?
I can move Mitu up, if needed, closer to the illuminator, just to keep right distance between objective & tube lens (Sigma LSA) - http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 692#190692
My very initial idea :
If I'll maintain right distances (using with/without head & different adapters) with Mitutoyo & other objectives, should I remove them ?
How much they are affecting image quality ?
I can move Mitu up, if needed, closer to the illuminator, just to keep right distance between objective & tube lens (Sigma LSA) - http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 692#190692
Saul
μ-stuff
μ-stuff
Being the Mitu infinite corrected you don't need the negative telan lens and two tube lenses stacked also seems inadequate, so, yes in principle you should remove the lenses or profit the upper one removing the Sigma LSA
Your binocular head, is for finite or infinite microscopes? (if infinite it will have another tube lens at its lower part!)
In my Zeiss I've tested the (optically similar) fluorescence illuminator with infinite corrected objectives and they work well removing the lower lens, although magnification is lower as the tube lens is shorter than the official Nikon and Olympus ones.
Your binocular head, is for finite or infinite microscopes? (if infinite it will have another tube lens at its lower part!)
In my Zeiss I've tested the (optically similar) fluorescence illuminator with infinite corrected objectives and they work well removing the lower lens, although magnification is lower as the tube lens is shorter than the official Nikon and Olympus ones.
Pau
Thanks Pau !Pau wrote:Being the Mitu infinite corrected you don't need the negative telan lens and two tube lenses stacked also seems inadequate, so, yes in principle you should remove the lenses or profit the upper one removing the Sigma LSA
Your binocular head, is for finite or infinite microscopes? (if infinite it will have another tube lens at its lower part!)
In my Zeiss I've tested the (optically similar) fluorescence illuminator with infinite corrected objectives and they work well removing the lower lens, although magnification is lower as the tube lens is shorter than the official Nikon and Olympus ones.
Head was infinite (Reichert), now it is finite
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 796#232796
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 348#191348
Looks like I have to remove them ....
Saul
μ-stuff
μ-stuff
, not this onePau wrote:If you refer to the hammered lens formerly at the photoport it isn't the tube lensHead was infinite (Reichert), now it is finite
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 233#202233
I have one more same Reichert tube lens, now Robert O'Toole is testing it, in my simple comparison tests it performed pretty good.
Last edited by Saul on Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Saul
μ-stuff
μ-stuff
The FL illuminator is an epi condenser with optics to focus the light source following the Köhler principle.Saul wrote:I'm going to use UV LED - how important is distance between LED and dichroic mirror ?
Light should be collimated ? Diffused ?
As you can see from the photos, my illuminator is missing light source,
The light of the light source is not diffused but collimated. In some models (like my Zeiss) there are optics at the lamp housing while in others all optics are at the illuminator (maybe your Nikon?). It is very important to put the LED well centered and at the right distance, so focusing and centering mechanisms are desirable.
Also be aware that many LEDs have built in lenses of different angles and this can affect their focus and coverage, in principle a lensless single chip LED will match better the optics designed for the arc of the HBO lamp. (that said all my LEDs have lenses, and I only have issues with one of them)
Because you already have a white LED used for transillumination a good approach is to test it with the blue excitation filter cube to see the position and how it works
with your skills I'm sure that you can make something better!Saul wrote:...so I have design something. Most probably it will be Pau's type sliding heat sink
What objectives magnification do you plan to use?
For low power I've found that external illumination is more effective that epi having LWD objectives.
A pair of Nichia Convoy S2 do really well
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 217#204217
Pau
Nikon lamphouses do have optics that work in conjunction with epi-illuminators. There are two types: for fluorescence (hbo/xbo arc) and for VIS (halogen). They are same constructions optically, but FL one is made of quartz and transmits UV, where EPI one is made of ordinary glass, that still transmits UV, but with cut-on 365nm.
That being said, i expect you'll get good results with LED alone as lamphouse optic is variably enlarging light source, and all diodes i know come with spreading "optics" and you can fill the aperture just by getting proper distance from epi-illuminator. Which should be very close.
With your setup, you basically have 3 tube lenses - one in EPI illuminator, one is sigma LSA, one in binocular head. Also one telan lens. You should get rid of all of them and keep just one. LSA is probably best bet, but i dont know how much infinity space it have.
That being said, i expect you'll get good results with LED alone as lamphouse optic is variably enlarging light source, and all diodes i know come with spreading "optics" and you can fill the aperture just by getting proper distance from epi-illuminator. Which should be very close.
With your setup, you basically have 3 tube lenses - one in EPI illuminator, one is sigma LSA, one in binocular head. Also one telan lens. You should get rid of all of them and keep just one. LSA is probably best bet, but i dont know how much infinity space it have.
Agree, good starting point.Pau wrote:Because you already have a white LED used for transillumination a good approach is to test it with the blue excitation filter cube to see the position and how it works
Would like to use/try all optionsPau wrote:What objectives magnification do you plan to use?
For low power I've found that external illumination is more effective that epi having LWD objectives.
Very good, it means I have to use collimating lens for the "flat" LED onlyJohnyM wrote:...all diodes i know come with spreading "optics" and you can fill the aperture just by getting proper distance from epi-illuminator....
Great, that my initial thought wasJohnyM wrote:With your setup, you basically have 3 tube lenses - one in EPI illuminator, one is sigma LSA, one in binocular head. Also one telan lens. You should get rid of all of them and keep just one.
3W LEDs will be OK, or I should look for more powerful ones , like 10w?
Saul
μ-stuff
μ-stuff
I don't think so, the collimating optics at my lamp housing is very strong although the ones inside the Nikon illuminator could be different (mine has only one other lens inside the illuminator). The optics need to be able to focus the LED die at the rear focal plane (and fulfilling it) of the objective after KöhlerVery good, it means I have to use collimating lens for the "flat" LED onlyJohnyM wrote:...all diodes i know come with spreading "optics" and you can fill the aperture just by getting proper distance from epi-illuminator....
There are for sure LEDs without lens, like this one: https://www.lumitronix.com/en_gb/nichia ... 14352.html (I have the NVSU233A-D1 that has a lens and it's the one that have focusing issues in my system)
You can put some more money, I have a "3 W" no brand chinese UV LED and, despite working it's not well powered and produces a large amount of white light.
The Nichia I linked is excellent although expensive and I'm also very satisfied with the LG 3535 385nm
Someone did recommend me the LedEngin LZ1-10UV00-0000, but I have not experience with it.
COB LEDs like the 10W you linked are inadequate for microscope illumination at least with the original optics designed for the small arc lamp source.
Pau