Life on the Edge
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
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My thanks to all of you for your kind words.
Saul, you inspired me to do my first stereo ever. It worked, sort of, but it's not of posting quality. The original image was cropped and rotated after stacking, and I haven't been able to figure out how to do that with a stereo pair. Maybe next time--sorry.
And Rik, you nailed the id. Good eye!
Leonard
Saul, you inspired me to do my first stereo ever. It worked, sort of, but it's not of posting quality. The original image was cropped and rotated after stacking, and I haven't been able to figure out how to do that with a stereo pair. Maybe next time--sorry.
And Rik, you nailed the id. Good eye!
Leonard
You can use http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/ with your stacked/edited photos. Post that stereo we all are learning here , nobody is perfect ...leonardturner wrote:...It worked, sort of, but it's not of posting quality. The original image was cropped and rotated after stacking, and I haven't been able to figure out how to do that with a stereo pair. Maybe next time--sorry...
Saul
μ-stuff
μ-stuff
- rjlittlefield
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I had help from Mother Nature. There happens to be a bed of daffodils in bloom right outside my window. The similarity would have been difficult to miss!leonardturner wrote:And Rik, you nailed the id.
Making stereo with intention to rotate can be done in Zerene Stacker, but it requires some care.The original image was cropped and rotated after stacking, and I haven't been able to figure out how to do that with a stereo pair.
The formally correct approach is to specify both X- and Y-shifts in the Preferences > Stereo/Rocking panel, using values such that rotating the results into final orientation will bring the Y-shifts to zero, or at least close enough that StereoPhoto Maker or moving the views in Photoshop can finish the job to give a good result.
Unfortunately the exact number depends on the frame aspect ratio as well as the intended rotation angle, so it's not trivial to calculate. As I type this, I think the appropriate computation would be that Y-shift % should be X-shift % multiplied by (X-size/Y-size) * tan(theta) for a rotation angle theta and X-size and Y-size being the image size in pixels. But I haven't checked that.
When experimenting with stereo, it helps to use Preferences > Preprocessing to pre-size the images small and stack every N'th frame with fairly large N, so as to keep the processing time short.
--Rik
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OK, Saul, this one's for you--you pushed me into it. Not exactly a finished product, and certainly not a replication in stereo of the earlier image, but its what I could do at this stage. Rotation and cropping were done of images simultaneously in Bridge, and they were retouched individually.
Rik, thanks for your information and input on this. I'm afraid my facility for trig has fallen off a bit over the decades! These were stacked "straight" and manipulated as above, giving only partial control of rotation. Nevertheless, a fun project.
Leonard
Rik, thanks for your information and input on this. I'm afraid my facility for trig has fallen off a bit over the decades! These were stacked "straight" and manipulated as above, giving only partial control of rotation. Nevertheless, a fun project.
Leonard
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Nice work!
This is good stereo, excellent really for such a challenging first attempt.
Judging from the artifacts that I see, these were rendered with PMax. That is always the first thing that I do too, but with subjects like this you'll get a better final result if most of the image comes from DMap. That's because when the stereo shifts are involved, PMax tends to produce brightness and contrast that does not match between the two views. For example in the pair shown here, the image on the right side has a brighter and more contrasty left edge on the petal. Using DMap, both views would be faithful to the original source images, so they would also match each other.
I hope this helps!
--Rik
This is good stereo, excellent really for such a challenging first attempt.
Judging from the artifacts that I see, these were rendered with PMax. That is always the first thing that I do too, but with subjects like this you'll get a better final result if most of the image comes from DMap. That's because when the stereo shifts are involved, PMax tends to produce brightness and contrast that does not match between the two views. For example in the pair shown here, the image on the right side has a brighter and more contrasty left edge on the petal. Using DMap, both views would be faithful to the original source images, so they would also match each other.
I hope this helps!
--Rik
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