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Epi lighting using a Nikon UM-2 Measurescope
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Saul



Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Posts: 1176
Location: Naperville, IL USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smokedaddy wrote:
...I still think it would be super simple to 3D print a tube 'exactly' as the one I posted and glue the proper camera adapter on one end.

A while back I 3D printed a Nikon MM-11 dovetail by 30.5 Tiffen filter adapter, see image below, just to see if it worked and for no particular reason. It's a Ttiffen 30.5 UV filter (number 2) that I took the glass out of, then glued it onto the 3D printed adapter (number 1). Then I reverse and screw my 28mm Schneider Kreuznach Componon on the end of it as shown below. Of course I can always redesign the 3D printed PLA adapter to make it shorter to some degree or longer.
...


James,
Very useful adapter !
My version with M42 extension ring:



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ChrisR
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Joined: 14 Mar 2009
Posts: 7787
Location: Near London, UK

PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, for "below the mount", these would be very useful.
I would love to know what the image circle would be through the trinoc on the Measurescope Question Question Question Question
This dovetail is of course the one used at the back of the objective turret. In Nikon's case there's also a 1x objective which is so long that there's no room for the turret. The dovetail for that objective unscrews: old pic-

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genera



Joined: 05 Oct 2011
Posts: 83
Location: California, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChrisR wrote:
Genera wrote:
You still need an adapter tube between it and the trinocular port ....
Oh, I didn't realise that.
What's supposed to go between the shutter unit and the trinoc tube?

See the 2nd post, 1st picture for an overview. The tube below the black Diagnostic Instruments tube is the adapter I'm talking about.

Quote:
I have some tubes with M42 at the top which slide in to the trinoc port well enough that I should be able, maybe some tape, get it central and grip with the thumbscrew.

The 7th post, 1st pic shows, from above, the inside of the tube with a relay lens installed. That tube has a ledge to position the relay lens, centered and at the correct height. The DI PA1-12A or Nikon UFX/AFX shutter fits inside of that tube between the tube wall and the relay lens. Your tube will need a way to mount the RL at the correct height and it will need a 42mm diameter section long enough to provide stability for the tube or shutter above. Ask James about the bottom diameter of the lower adapter he's using. I think you need 38mm (ISO38). Nikon made at least 3 variations, the ISO38 tube, a 38mm dovetail, and a 42mm tube. To complicate matters a little more, the adapters with the ISO38 style bottom are available with and without the ledge for the relay lens.

Quote:
The shutter appeals, for clattery Nikon cameras without EFSC.

It should be fairly simple to make a circuit to trigger it and time the opening. I used one for a short while by manually opening the camera shutter, and then after allowing adequate time for vibrations to settle I'd trigger the AFX shutter. The AFX shutter definitely produces less vibration but I didn't see much, if any, difference in my photos so I abandoned plans to automate it.

Quote:

(Shipping varies all over the place. The $67 was to a different US State, and the "estimates" to the UK are never right!)

The second example I posted had a fixed shipping rate to the UK using the eBay Global Shipping Program, plus customs charges as a percent of the sale price.
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ChrisR
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Joined: 14 Mar 2009
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Location: Near London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, misunderstanding I think.
Post 2 picture 1,
I have the same parts, up to the top of the cream colored Trinoc tube.
The Measurescope came with that tube.
I have a couple of projection eyepieces eg CF 2.5x (doesn't say PL I think)

so I assume one of the parts you refer to would drop in there and be the right length to connect to a Nikon body?

This one looks significantly longer http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=382314946152&category=11813&pm=1&ds=0&t=1518831078840
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Smokedaddy



Joined: 07 Oct 2006
Posts: 1135
Location: Phoenix, Arizona

PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I don't know. I have a D700 but I've never used it for micro/macro yet. I did gut one of these, Nikon UFX-11, but have never used it.









Like I said, I haven't used this yet. I'm not sure what that pin is for in the last image. I didn't want to mount my D700 on it because of that. <g>

-JW:


Last edited by Smokedaddy on Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:26 pm; edited 2 times in total
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genera



Joined: 05 Oct 2011
Posts: 83
Location: California, USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then you need three pieces. In Smokedaddy's lastest picture the piece at the top between the two chromed rings is called "Adapter A". That's piece #1. It incorporates the F mount. The UFX or AFX body is piece #2. The chrome tube just below the UFX body (you can only see a short segment of it here) is piece #3. These three pieces, when assembled, hold the camera the same distance from the relay lens as does the Diagnostic Instruments PA1-12A.
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dolmadis



Joined: 07 Dec 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

genera wrote:
In Smokedaddy's lastest picture the piece at the top between the two chromed rings is called "Adapter A". That's piece #1. It incorporates the F mount.


I have been trying to follow this thread and the last by genera sure helps.

How practical is it to remove the F Mount and replace it with another type please?

BR

John
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genera



Joined: 05 Oct 2011
Posts: 83
Location: California, USA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
. . .

How practical is it to remove the F Mount and replace it with another type please?

BR


John, you can see the screw pattern in the second photo from the end in Smokdaddy's last post. The three screws are evenly spaced on the circumference of a 52mm diameter circle. There's not room in the metal below to move them inward if your mount has a smaller diameter. If your mount has a larger diameter you could possibly drill a new set of holes on a circle up to about 53-53.5mm diameter. Whether that works for you or not depends on your mount.

You might also consider epoxying the mount in place.
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dolmadis



Joined: 07 Dec 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Gene.

I will be measuring to find out !!

BR


John
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