Hello Mike,
I just swapped the two images in Photoshop, so that each eye gets the corresponding perspective when looking at it crosseyed (and I reduced the black space around a bit). The way it was set up before was for "parallel" stereo. No need to go back to Zerene in a case like this
Best regards,
Michael
Chip Image in QFN Package
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Wonderful!
It looks like a Scutigera
Here is website with a short explanation on how to see
cross eyed stereo
There are many other sites with good exersices.
Most people can learn it with a little training.
A few will never learn.
My own supplement to the explanations is: It is easiest to start with narrow pictures (portrait orientation).
It is also easier, if there is a distinct border between the two pictures.
I always add a colored line between them if the background is uniformed colored.
It looks like a Scutigera
Here is website with a short explanation on how to see
cross eyed stereo
There are many other sites with good exersices.
Most people can learn it with a little training.
A few will never learn.
My own supplement to the explanations is: It is easiest to start with narrow pictures (portrait orientation).
It is also easier, if there is a distinct border between the two pictures.
I always add a colored line between them if the background is uniformed colored.
Troels Holm, biologist (retired), environmentalist, amateur photographer.
Visit my Flickr albums
Visit my Flickr albums
- rjlittlefield
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You train your eyes to fuse the two images, while maintaining focus, and ignoring the rest of the world which is not fused.mawyatt wrote:So what do you do with this cross-eyed image now?
Fusing the two images requires crossing your eyes so the right eye sees the left-side image, and vice versa.
Google cross eyed stereo viewing for an assortment of hints.
Learning to see crossed-eye stereo is a non-trivial educational experience that can produce significant eyestrain in the first attempts.
Some people never get the crossed eye stuff to work. For them I recommend using a parallel layout, with a mirror-based viewing aid ("stereoscope"), such as https://www.berezin.com/3d/pocket_3dvu.htm , to handle the fusion. When the viewing aid is properly adjusted, the human viewer's eyes don't have to do anything different from normal reading.
--Rik
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Ironically, the two gray-scale images side-by-side at the top of that page are not stereo. They are just two copies of the same image, so fusing them just produces another flat image. The color images at the bottom of the page are stereo; fusing those produces good depth.Troels wrote:Here is website with a short explanation on how to see
cross eyed stereo
--Rik
Hi Harold,
This is a circuit/chip design that I created and patented, so we had these chips packaged up by a speciality house in QFN packages with the lids just glued on. You can see some of the glue residue on the top of the package. This was done so we could test out the concept, so somewhat of an experimental chip. The lids were removed with just a Exacto blade.
Standard production chips are extremely difficult to get into. I think Mike (Olympusman) on here uses a Nitric acid (maybe H2SO4 also) heated fog to eat away the package but the leave the chip intact. He's got this down and has produced some stunning images of production chips that were "exposed" with this method.
Best,
Mike
This is a circuit/chip design that I created and patented, so we had these chips packaged up by a speciality house in QFN packages with the lids just glued on. You can see some of the glue residue on the top of the package. This was done so we could test out the concept, so somewhat of an experimental chip. The lids were removed with just a Exacto blade.
Standard production chips are extremely difficult to get into. I think Mike (Olympusman) on here uses a Nitric acid (maybe H2SO4 also) heated fog to eat away the package but the leave the chip intact. He's got this down and has produced some stunning images of production chips that were "exposed" with this method.
Best,
Mike