First images from Apo-Lanthar 65mm are online

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rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

hero wrote:One possible way to address issues with axial color, although I have not tried it in practice, is to try to stack each color channel separately, then merge them after the stacking.
This is an idea that comes up periodically. I have heard several reports of people trying it, but none with much success.
Smokedaddy wrote:can't the color fringing be easily removed in Photoshop?
Unfortunately, no. Longitudinal (axial) CA is a completely different beast from lateral (transverse) CA.

With lateral CA, you can do a good correction by just changing the size of each of the RGB sub-images by slightly different amounts. All the information you want is still in the image; it has just been shifted radially by a small amount. Shift it back, and you have a good corrected image.

But with longitudinal CA, the problem is that different colors have been blurred by different amounts, and the amount of blur depended not only on the color but also on the distance from lens. In any one image, there is simply not enough information to recover the result you want.

So, what Photoshop and all other software uses to attack this problem are essentially heuristics: thin dark lines against uniform background should not have colored edges; dark regions next to bright edges should not be purple, and so on. Sometimes the heuristics work well, but often they work not so well. Sometimes they fail catastrophically.

One of the most bizarre focus stacks I was ever asked to diagnose showed a flower that looked like this:

Image

I actually coined a new term to talk with the user about this strange new stacking artifact: "loss of saturation halo".

But of course it turned out to not be a stacking artifact at all. Instead, the user had unknowingly cranked up the strength of a "remove purple fringes" filter in his raw development process, and the software had responded by removing the purple next to those bright edges. His source images looked like this also.

It was one of those things that made perfect sense in retrospect.

--Rik

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Yes, those are what I have been calling the "scars" of Photoshop LoCA correction. They wouldn't be so bad if they had soft edges but when you do this correction to images that will be stacked, the scar edges are interpreted as detail, so you get nested fake edges all over.

JH
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Post by JH »

hero wrote:One possible way to address issues with axial color, although I have not tried it in practice, is to try to stack each color channel separately, then merge them after the stacking. Of course, this is useless for removing axial color from single shots.
hero - A few years ago I tried stakning red,green,blue. It works but it is no show stopper - It solved some problems, but left me with some new quite large coloured artifacts.

If you want to do this you have to figure out how to handel alignement and the final merging of the final red green and blue pictures with the programs that you use. I used a microscope so the pictures was aligned from start. Then I saved one green one red and one blue set, stacked them in Zerene (no alignment) and blended the result in Adobe PS.
Quite time consuming and for me to difficult to do

Lou Jost - Thank You wery much for this report!


Best regards Jörgen Hellberg
Jörgen Hellberg, my webbsite www.hellberg.photo

austrokiwi1
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Post by austrokiwi1 »

The CA issue was identified with the prototype some months ago. I will wait for a few more reviews but although the lens is still tempting I may well give it a miss and save a few more pennies and get the Minolta APO 200mm macro. The last 200mm Macor OI used was the Canon FD 200mm. The focal length was useful but the CA was not
Still learning,
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8

RobertOToole
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Post by RobertOToole »

austrokiwi1 wrote:The CA issue was identified with the prototype some months ago. I will wait for a few more reviews but although the lens is still tempting I may well give it a miss and save a few more pennies and get the Minolta APO 200mm macro. The last 200mm Macor OI used was the Canon FD 200mm. The focal length was useful but the CA was not

What are the main features that draw you to the Minolta APO 200mm macro Austrokiwi? Is it the mount?

They are quite expensive on the used market, similar to a new Sigma 180mm f/2.8 or for less, a 180mm f/4 APO-Lanthar!

Thanks!

Robert

austrokiwi1
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Post by austrokiwi1 »

its going off topic but its the mount... although I use an emount camera... I already have the LAEA-4 adapter that will mount the 200mm. Yes it is expensive but its a toss up between the original lanthar ( in A mount) and the minolta.
Still learning,
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8

RobertOToole
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Post by RobertOToole »

austrokiwi1 wrote:its going off topic but its the mount... although I use an emount camera... I already have the LAEA-4 adapter that will mount the 200mm. Yes it is expensive but its a toss up between the original lanthar ( in A mount) and the minolta.
Thanks for the info.

You should post a thread about the lens and the adaptation if you do pick one up. I am sure lots of people would find that interesting! I am thinking about adding a Sony body to my collection one day so I know I would.

Robert

JohnKoerner
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Post by JohnKoerner »

First Full Review
More Images

The author says "he still needs to familiarize himself" with the lens, but I guess he wanted to be the first.

Seems to have excellent, subtle color rendition far better than the Sony (last comparison).

Not really a bug lens, but more a flower/fungus lens IMO.

Still there is a lot of nature that is 1:2 and above, including larger butterflies, etc.

Looks nice. CA seems to be well-controlled under most conditions (flare can be very bad ... and he admits he didn't push the CA envelope.)

I don't know why he didn't just do all of these things and then write his review.

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