Extending the magnification range of Printing Nikkors

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Lou Jost
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Extending the magnification range of Printing Nikkors

Post by Lou Jost »

Printing Nikkors (except the oldest version of the 150 PN) are optimized for a single magnification (and its reciprocal when the lens is reversed). The degree of specialization is nicely documented in the "corner sharpness vs magnification" graphs for these lenses on coinimaging.com. These graphs suggest that we can't get good results at magnifications far from the designed optimum, if we just use extension to control magnification.

The graphs suggest that instead of using extension and suffering from unsharp corners, we should try to keep the lens at its designed optimum and transform the resulting image by other means, either shrinking it with a Speedbooster or enlarging it with a good teleconverter. Some people think that either of these devices will degrade the image, but that is not necessarily true. At their optimum magnification, the Printing Nikkors may produce an aerial image that has more resolution than our sensors can record, so a mild teleconverter might be able to enlarge this image to show more detail than was visible in the original recorded image.

I have the PN105 A that was tested at coinimaging.com (thanks to Ray Parkhurst). The graphs show that its corner sharpness falls off very quickly when m is different from 1.0. This suggests that in order to get a sharp image at m> 1 it would be better to set the lens to its optimum m=1 and use a Nikon TC14 or TC17 to expand this image, rather than getting the higher m by extending the lens beyond its design point. Likewise, to get an image at m<1 it might be better to set the lens to m=1 and use a Speedbooster to compress this perfectly sharp image, rather than getting the lower m by reducing the lens extension far from its design point.

Here I test both approaches. I used a PEN F in high-resolution mode, which produced 50Mp jpgs on a tiny sensor. With this I can see differences that might not be easily visible on sensors with lower pixel pitch.

First, I compare the results of extension vs TC for m=1.4 (since I have the Nikon TC-14E-III teleconverter, whose stupid "child-proof" mounting tab I had to destroy by drilling through it).

Here is the 8160 x 6120 image at m=1.4 (at the reduced resolution of this forum, there is no difference between the TC image and the extension image). I have not done anything to it except reduce and compress it for the forum (too bad it needs to be compressed, it is stunningly sharp when viewed large on a monitor).

Image

Here are 200% crops of the TC-14 image (left) and the image obtained by extending the lens to get the same magnification (right). (The images were so sharp, even in this interpolated high resolution mode, that it was helpful to look at the 200% crops instead of the usual 100% crops.) The PN105 is set to f/2.8 for the TC image and f/3.3 for the extended image, because the coinimaging.com tests showed that 2.8 was the sharpest aperture at m=1 and 3.3 was the sharpest aperture at 0.66 and presumably its conjugate. (I confirmed those results with my own tests: 2.8 produced the sharpest results with the TC, and 3.3 produced the sharpest results with extension):

Image
Left: PN105 + TC14. Right: PN105 extended.

It is clear that getting to m=1.4 by putting the teleconverter on the lens, which was set to its optimum m of 1.0 (left), gives much sharper results than just extending the lens to get 1.4x. This should dispel the myth that putting more glass in an optical path is somehow always bad.

I also tried the Speedbooster Ultra to reduce the magnification of the PN105 when it was set to m=1, and compared this to reducing the extension to get the same image. Here is the image:

Image

On the left is a 100% crop taken from near a corner of the Speedbooster image and on the right is a 100% crop of the image obtained by pure extension. The difference here is slight, but the Speedbooster image seems slightly better.
Image
Left: PN105 + Speedbooster. Right: PN105 on reduced extension.

I think these techniques would also work on other highly-optimized special lenses such as the Rayfacts that are optimized for 2x. I suspect the results with the teleconverter would apply also to APS sensors and maybe even full-frame sensors, since the converters are designed for full frame. .

mawyatt
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Post by mawyatt »

Lou,

Great work!! I had noticed how narrow the corner sharpness vs. magnification graph was on coinimaging. Certainly looks "tuned" to 1X.

What you are doing makes sense to me, keeping the 105 near 1X where it's so highly optimized and using the TC to augment the magnification What did you have to do to the TC1.4 to get it to fit?

I am curious about the PN 105A and how you mount it both forward and reversed.

Best,

Mike

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Mike, thanks for commenting. Mounting it is no problem, it came with the tube and Nikon F mount shown in the coinimaging.com photo. I mount that on a Nikon PN11 extension tube which has a rotating tripod collar; I attach it to a Stackshot via that collar. I add a 36mm extension tube to achieve m=1 and an F-to-MFT shift-adapter to connect to my PEN F.

I also use a 43-49 step-up ring on the front of the lens in case I want to reverse it or add a filter.

The Nikon TC14E-III has a tab on its mount that prevents it from being mounted on lenses not designed for it. It has a protruding front element so mounting it on some lenses could be disastrous. But this tab means you can't mount it on any legacy lens. I tried to unscrew the chrome mount so I could hacksaw the tab off, but one of the four screws had a stripped head and would not come off. So I protected the lenses as best I could and used an electric drill to demolish the tab. Not elegant but it worked. Here is a more elegant solution:
http://nikonpages.heymanphotography.com/tcmod/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEDciXf19jo
Last edited by Lou Jost on Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Here's another thread I just found on the TC modification. Seems others have had the same problem as I did with one of the screws refusing to come out.

https://www.nikoncafe.com/threads/tc-14 ... bes.19404/

mawyatt
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Post by mawyatt »

Lou,

Stuck screw was a problem I had with one of the Nikon 200mm F4 "Q" lenses. I even got the Japanese special screw drivers (Vessel), they use a different screw than the standard Phillips head. Still wasn't able to remove the screw, so I did the mod to the lens to make it fit on modern F founts. Like you, with the lens intact! I carefully taped everything up on the lens and sealed every possible place filings could get in, then carefully went to work with a high speed diamond tool grinding away part of the rear ring. After a few hours work, the lens is fine and works on my Nikons!!

Do you know of any of the PN 105 A that are already configured for DSLR use at a reasonable price? I looked on eBay and there are a couple but the "clean" ones are around $2K, and one that is asking $1500 has a seriously bent tube that looks like it was dropped.

Best,

Mike

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Good job on the Nikkor Q!

I don't know of any PN105s for sale but you should send a PM to Ray Parkhurst. He might have one for sale, and he's a reliable source unlike random people on ebay.

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Post by Chris S. »

mawyatt wrote:Do you know of any of the PN 105 A that are already configured for DSLR use . . . ?
If a Printing Nikkor 105mm is not already configured for DSLR use, making it so is not difficult. Start with Rafcamera's eBay part 142382208066, add a 52mm-thread extension tube, then a reversing ring for your camera mount.

Back in 2012, before the Rafcamera adapter was available, Ray Parkhurst helped a few of us get custom adapters made by his machinist. These adapters were (and still are) very nice, and are the equivalent of the Rafcamera adapter part plus a length of 52mm reversing ring, though as a single piece. If Ray has any of these left, or if his machinist cares to make more, I'd highly recommend them. But with the Rafcamera part readily available off-the-shelf (and given the good quality of Rafcamera items), going with the Rafcamera part seems like an easy and very workable solution.

--Chris S.

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Post by ChrisR »

Interesting work, Lou.
A couple of questions come to mind:


In the m=1.4x case, how does the converted image compare with a native 1:1 image enlarged? (ie Does the converter add aberrations of its own?)


Your sensor has a thick (~4mm) glass filter pack, as you reported earlier. Does this mean better results could be achieves with a PN and a different camera, which uses a thinner glass cover?

We might assume the lens is designed for use with NO glass.
That may not be correct of course. Film has no glass (usually!) but probably all sensors do. It's also possible that the design of the scanner lens recently being discussed as "very similar" may be altered to allow for a glass cover on the scanner sensor. If so, it would probably suit your MFT sensor better.
Chris R

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Chris, those are good points. The PN105 at 1:1 has an effective aperture of 2.8*(1+1) = 5.6, which is well above Roger Ciccala's reported cut-off of EA=2.8 for noticing the effect of the MFT sensor glass. So for this set-up I was not too worried about that. I'd still expect the lens to do better on a camera with a similar pixel pitch per FOV and a thinner sensor stack, but my MFT camera is one of the very few cameras (and the only affordable one) that can put 50Mp or 80Mp under my chosen FOV. (The Sony AR7II is close but I ran out of money buying lenses.)

I'll be posting shortly an example of how spectacularly this Oly high-res mode works; while testing tube lenses I found myself in a situation where the normal resolution mode showed no ridges in the butterfly scales, but the high-res mode resolved the ridges very well.

The Speedbooster does correct for the sensor stack thickness. So for very fast lenses it may be better to use a longer lens + Speedbooster than to use a shorter lens and no Speedbooster.

As for comparing a blown-up 1:1 image from the PN105 to the TC image, I'll do that for you after breakfast....

The Scanner Nikon is designed to shoot through a glass sensor cover, but I didn't think to dissect the sensor to measure its thickness. Now I (actually my brother in the US) sold all the scanner components individually to recover my costs for that Coolscan 8000. I had to buy the whole scanner (advertised as "For parts" for about 400-500$) to get the lens. Interestingly, it looks like I'll break even on that purchase! The parts are valuable.

A tinkerer would have enjoyed playing with the insides of that machine. It could be made into a stacking rail, and could handle vertical and horizontal subjects by inserting or removing the mirror (or the mirror could be extracted and used in a do-it-yourself flipping device, or used to build a rock-solid setup in which the camera and subject were both securely mounted flat to a block of granite, and the mirror moved for stacking, or with the subject on a voice coil as discussed here recently). It also has three monochromatic RGB LEDs which could be individually controlled. A very sophisticated toy!

I should add that I did post crude tests of the scanner lens vs PN, and it was clear that the scanner lens, although excellent and completely free from CA, was not quite as good as the PN.
Last edited by Lou Jost on Sun Jul 23, 2017 7:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Chris, here I've made the comparison you requested. PN blown up 140% on the left, PN+TC14x on right. The differences are quite small but the optical enlargement via the TC is clearly sharper than the digital enlargement of the original PN105 image.

I enlarged the PN105 image 140% using Photoshop's "Bicubic smoother (enlargement)" option. Then blew that and the TC image up to 200% and 400% to examine the differences.

First at 200%, enlarged PN105 image on left, PN105 + TC 1.4x on right.
Image

At 400%, enlarged PN105 image on left, PN105 + TC 1.4x on right.
Image

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Post by ChrisR »

Sorry I'd forgotten it was you who did the PN vs Scanner lens comparison.:oops:
And I'm surprised the converter image is so much better. I think that tells us the sensor is running out of pixels. Was this the high-res mode?
Last edited by ChrisR on Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Yes, these are in high-res mode, and I am sure the PN105 still outresolves that. That's when a teleconverter makes sense; I hope this demonstration cures the prejudice against putting "more glass" in the optical path.

austrokiwi1
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Post by austrokiwi1 »

I think I still have the same prejudice to a degree... the issue is finding the right extra glass.
Still learning,
Cameras' Sony A7rII, OLympus OMD-EM10II
Macro lenses: Printing nikkor 105mm, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G, Schneider Kreuznach Makro Iris 50mm , 2.8, Schnieder Kreuznach APO Componon HM 40mm F2.8 , Mamiya 645 120mm F4 Macro ( used with mirex tilt shift adapter), Olympus 135mm 4.5 bellows lens, Oly 80mm bellows lens, Olympus 60mm F2.8

Lou Jost
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Post by Lou Jost »

Austrokiwi, it is always a challenge to find a lens that is good enough to benefit from a teleconverter. Also, if the lens is not so highly optimized for a particular magnification, and is designed to perform well over a wide range of extension distances, maybe a teleconverter doesn't make sense. But for these super-optimized lenses, I'd highly recommend a good mild TC like the TC-14E-III. (Note that the version matters.)

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Post by rjlittlefield »

austrokiwi1 wrote:the issue is finding the right extra glass.
It is also a matter of having dragged the main lens away from its design point in the first place. Once the image has degraded because of that, then finding extra glass to at least partially restore the image quality may be pretty simple. See for example http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 943#102943 .

--Rik

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