Musca domestica @ 5X and Fly Eye @ 40X

conkar · Post by **conkar** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:54 am

Musca domestica @ 5X

Canon EOS 5DmkII and Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM as tubelens with a Mitutoyo M Plan APO 5x 0.14 microscope objective.214 images stacked with Zerene Stacker Pmax.F2.8 1/6 sec, Illuminated with 4 diffused Ikea Jansjö LED-lights.

I think this is a common house fly Musca domestica. If someone has another id of this fly, please correct me.

Fly Eye @ 40X

Canon Eos 7D and a finite microscope objective Nikon M Plan 40 0.55 LWD 210/0 on bellows. 316 images stacked using Zerene Stacker Pmax.
Illuminated with 4 diffused Ikea Jansjö LED-lights.

This was the test shoot I did with my interim setup to see what came out due to the wooden floor at my home and I also wanted to test the Cognisys Stackshot at 40X.

Regards,

Conny

Macrero · Post by **Macrero** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:37 pm

Excellent stacks ! Very good detail and lighting . The first picture, I think it would have been better with some cut , something like this :

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... acrero.jpg

Cheers !

Charles Krebs · Post by **Charles Krebs** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:05 pm

Conny,

Very nice!

Canon EOS 5DmkII and Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM as tubelens with a Mitutoyo M Plan APO 5x 0.14

In this case the subject is centered with no detail towards the outside of the frame, and it all looks very good!. I am curious how well that equipment combination does toward the edges and corners of the 24x36mm sensor of thew 5D. Have you looked at that?

conkar · Post by **conkar** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:28 am

Macrero wrote:Excellent stacks ! Very good detail and lighting .

Charles Krebs wrote:Conny,
Very nice!

Thanks, for your kindly comments.....

Much appreciated!

Macrero wrote:The first picture, I think it would have been better with some cut , something like this

I think that might be a matter of taste.

My intention with that picture was to create a image that was "laid back", "airy" and not so "in the face". Therefore, I chose to shoot it at 5X with a FF. I also liked to stay true to the aspect ratio of 3:2 with the crop.

Charles Krebs wrote:Conny,
In this case the subject is centered with no detail towards the outside of the frame, and it all looks very good!. I am curious how well that equipment combination does toward the edges and corners of the 24x36mm sensor of thew 5D. Have you looked at that?

This picture was shoot with the aperture fully open at F2.8 and I saw only slight vignetting at the corners.

I don't have shoot a picture with the whole full frame in focus with the Canon EOS 5DmkII, but I can set up a test and do that. I have done it with the 7D (aps-c) and that worked out well. Among the Mitutoyo's the 5X is my own favorite.

Best Regards,

Conny

conkar · Post by **conkar** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 2:39 am

Worn Stamp @ 5X

"This picture don't apply to the topic of this thread, but as to a request from Mr Charles Krebs of a full frame test I post it here."

57 images stacked with Zerene Stacker Pmax.

Canon EOS 5DmkII and Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM as tubelens focused at infinity @ F5.6, 1/4sec with a Mitutoyo M Plan APO 5x 0.14 microscope objective. Illuminated with 4 diffused Ikea Jansjö LED-lights and shot in live view EFCS-mode.

I think I can go up to F8.0 with the EF 200 and also get a good result.

A higher res image:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6805 ... a1c0_o.jpg

Regards,

Conny

rjlittlefield · Post by **rjlittlefield** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:44 am

The test image is interesting. The corners have cross-shaped highlights indicating aberration, and they're much worse on the left side than the right. Looks like a centering issue. I have no idea whether that's in the objective itself or in its relation to the tube lens.

--Rik

conkar · Post by **conkar** » Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:48 am

rjlittlefield wrote:The test image is interesting. The corners have cross-shaped highlights indicating aberration, and they're much worse on the left side than the right. Looks like a centering issue. I have no idea whether that's in the objective itself or in its relation to the tube lens.
--Rik

Thanks Rik!

I will look in to that and do more testing to see if I can find that matter.

I think I start to look if the adapters are ok and if they align the objective proper.

Regards,

Conny

abpho · Post by **abpho** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:43 pm

conkar wrote:...Canon EOS 5DmkII and Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM as tubelens focused at infinity @ F5.6, 1/4sec with a Mitutoyo M Plan APO 5x 0.14 microscope objective. Illuminated with 4 diffused Ikea Jansjö LED-lights and shot in live view EFCS-mode.

I think I can go up to F8.0 with the EF 200 and also get a good result.

...

Hey Conny. I thought that stopping down the tube lens (200mm prime) did nothing for image quality or DOF control except causing massive vignetting at some point. Having an iris between the tube lens and objective lens (Mitutoyo 5x) was the way to go. Care to comment on this? I am really curious.

Also, can you tell me what increment sizes you used between shots with the Mts 5x?

Thanks.

rjlittlefield · Post by **rjlittlefield** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:19 pm

I think Conny's traveling right now, so he might be delayed. In the meantime...

ChrisR reports that stopping down the tube lens to a point just short of vignetting results in some increase in contrast with some lenses, presumably by having the aperture act as a sort of mask to cut stray reflections inside the lens. Other than that, it's correct that stopping down the tube lens mostly produces vignetting if it does anything at all. At 5X NA 0.14, the objective is already stopping down the overall system to about f/18. To stop it farther without vignetting, you need an aperture very close to the objective. Inside the objective would be even better, but close behind it is OK. The problem with stopping down a telephoto acting as tube lens is that the aperture of most telephotos is in the middle of the lens, often effectively clear back at the camera. It's that position far from the objective that causes the vignetting.

--Rik

abpho · Post by **abpho** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:21 pm

Thanks Rik.

conkar · Post by **conkar** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:56 am

abpho wrote:Hey Conny. I thought that stopping down the tube lens (200mm prime) did nothing for image quality or DOF control except causing massive vignetting at some point. Having an iris between the tube lens and objective lens (Mitutoyo 5x) was the way to go. Care to comment on this? I am really curious.

Also, can you tell me what increment sizes you used between shots with the Mts 5x?

Thanks.

I think Rik sums it up very well in his post. What I can see when changing the aperture with Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM as "tube lens" is a little increasement of DOF and resolution, but it also affect the exposure as the lens communicates with the DSLR, the aperture changes also have an impact on the metering/exposure. I mostly use F3.2 as aperture when I use the Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM as "tube lens".

I found out in my recent testing that an iris diaphragm can be very useful to incorporate in the setup within the infinity space (between the "tube lens" and the objective.)

Here is what Mitutoyo says about an Aperture Diaphragm:

An adjustable circular aperture which controls the amount of light passing through a lens system. It is also referred to as an aperture stop and its size affects image brightness and depth of focus.

It's in my to add list for the setup with the Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM to add an iris diaphragm, I will then go M72 to M52 -> M52 to M42 -> the jinfinance M42 iris (that Javier helped to get made) -> M42 to M26 for the Mitu's.

The step size I used with the Mitu 5X for this image of the house fly was 20µm. I often use step size around 18 to 20µm when photographing at 5X with the Mitu, 8 to 10µm with the 10X and 3 to 5µm with the 20X depending on what subject I photograph.

ConKar MT-1 incorporation

Nikon PB6 Bellows -> Nikon F to C-mount -> 5mm C-mount extension-> Mitutoyo MT-1/MT-2 C-mount Adapter (with the MT-1 tube lens mounted)->Thorlabs SM1A9 (C-mount to SM-1)->Thorlabs SM1A2 SM-1 to SM-2 - Thorlabs SM2D25 SM2 Lever-Actuated Iris Diaphragm - Thorlabs SM1A27 SM-1 to M26 -> Mitutoyo Microscope objective.

This setup is only useful for use with a DSLR with an APS-C sensor as the image circle is not large enough to cover a FF-sensor.

Regards,
Conny