Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
(also some objectives as im just not getting that sharpness I crave!)
) It was a learning experience and now I REALLY want to attempt some of those insane 100+ stacked images you guys post. The linear stage like the newport seems to be my best option along with a bellows of some sort (cheap ebay one since first party is way to expensive or M42?). I don't quite understand what else I need to connect the camera/bellows to the stage and tripod to the stage properly (easy = better ) though. Im sorry, I know its like talking to a 7 year old kid in regards to this kind of stuff but I am truly clueless about everything tripodish (something not a lens or camera or flash )So you are using 2 arca clamps and 2 arca rails on the setup in addition to the $100+ newport stage? So a grand total of lets say $100 + 2(40) + 2(60) = ~$300? Are the extra parts in addition to the stage necessary or are there significantly cheaper options even if they are of less quality (as I assume a tiny piece of metal costing $60 must be of the utmost quality) ?mark_h wrote:I have a Manfrotto 488RC2 head but I didn't like the head so I changes it for a Hejnar Arca clamp $60.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/3-25-clamp-RRS-Mark ... 4cf68401d2 I think it is more secure and when used with a long Arca rail the complete rig can be slide for and aft for course focusing.
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/u ... ipod_1.jpg
I mounted an 8" Hejnar rail $40.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/8-0-rail-scale-Arca ... 35b1094ba9 to the bottom of the newport stage using the holes in the stage. A second Arca clamp is mounted on top of the stage and the camera is mounted with another Arca rail
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/u ... late_1.jpg
I have found the whole set-up very stable and versitile
Good luck
manufacture adapter plates from 10 mm thick aluminium sheet material (bought cheaply as offcuts from a local metal dealer, but can be found on ebay too). The aluminium of this thickness can be cut with an electronic jig saw. With some thought, appropriate holes drilled through the aluminium plates and some bolts and nuts you can make the adapters you need. Provides a very stable, wobble-free connection. With ordinary bolts this gives me no quick release, of course. But as I use bellows, the camera can be taken off easily anyway.
Though it might be on what you would have thought was the "top", that doesn't matter much, you can fix the thing upside down on a tripod head.
.Ok I think what i need to do is just get a linear stage already, get it to my house, and just go from there. This is all very difficult without being able to see it in person. Now last time I looked on ebay there were plenty of those 430 newport linear stages with 2 inch micrometers. Now that I look there appears to be none.ChrisR wrote:Tan
Yep, the cost of the boring parts soon adds up.
One thing you'll notice with some of the Newport stages is that they say they're Imperial, or English threads. That (always I think) means there's a 1/4 x 20tpi threaded hole in them. That of course is the standard tripod screw.
On what was the "bottom" you'll have all sorts of holes.
So you need to screw a plate of some sort down onto that, to fix your camera or bellows to.
A "nice" option is one of those Arca type clamps and a longish rail for the camera. It would be good and solid but there are cheaper options, such as a cheapo slide rail like
this
or an X - Y one like this
One other variant of the Newport rail you'll see is where the micrometer comes out of the middle at the back. They aren't quite a s convenient, but you'll manage, and they're often cheaper.
Some are 1", some 2" micrometers. Your actual stack may well be under an inch, but the extra throw makes setting-up easier.
To fix the base of the "slider" to the top of the "newport" you're just gonna have to drill some holes and find the right screws. Easy with a small pillar drill. Maybe you need to groom some avuncular geezer who plays with radio controlled planes or somesuch
Those stages say nothing about what the threads are.
Is it the micrometer that gives the 2 inch capability? So any newport 4xx stage has the potential for that? How is it attached to the stage?ChrisR wrote:Not sure what he means about using screws and nuts.
Seem cheap enough though.
But 2" would be a little easier in siome curcumstances.
You could use something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lufkin-513-Depth-Mi ... 27ba5378d1
to shove part of a bellows unit along. Thought of it but never did it.
Those stages say nothing about what the threads are.
You only need part of that, though. Suggest you search for "micrometer head" rather than just "micrometer".yeatzee wrote:
On another note, what about getting a linear stage without the micrometer, than buying this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 500wt_1156
Can this be attached to a linear stage? If so, how easy would it be (do I need tools?).
No. Some stages have more travel than others. So you need a stage that can move two inches, plus a micrometer head that can move two inches (and has the right size mounting to fit your stage).yeatzee wrote: Is it the micrometer that gives the 2 inch capability?
There is a clamp, which tightens and loosens with a small allen (hex) nut.yeatzee wrote:How is it attached to the stage?
That has the advantage that you know the micrometer head is the right size to fit, and has the right travel.yeatzee wrote:Should I just wait for a decent 430 series with 2" micrometer on ebay and go from there?
I've found that 25 mm (~ 1 inch) travel is far enough for fine stacking with such a stage. I haven't used more than 15 mm or so, and can't think that I'll ever need the full inch travel for stacking with such a stage.Should I just wait for a decent 430 series with 2" micrometer on ebay and go from there?
