My 5D is failing, I am going to get an APS-C back-up camera

A forum to ask questions, post setups, and generally discuss anything having to do with photomacrography and photomicroscopy.

Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau

seta666
Posts: 1071
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:50 am
Location: Castellon, Spain

My 5D is failing, I am going to get an APS-C back-up camera

Post by seta666 »

Hi,
Last June I bought a 2º hand EOS 5D, a camera I really love. It had allready 80.000 shots but I thought it was OK as I was not going to give it a heavy use. Now it is starting to fail (camera hang up in the Mirror lock-up procees, it fails to lock up and I have to re-start the camera loosing framing) and I can not do high magnification shots.
In Spain you have two options, either get an stimate (and if it is a big fault pay a lot) or choose a flat 450€ rate (and if it is only a loose screw you pay 450€) I think I am going to use my 5D until it explodes, then will get flat rate but this means few stacks then.

I have been thinking about getting an APS-C camera, and the 1000D (300€, brand new 2 year warranty, was my first camera too)seems a nice one for my needs; doing some test with my girlfriends 400D has convinced me totaly.
I loose per pixel quality, because 5d sensor is canon less difraction affected sensor ever (best per pixel quality) but I also get some advantages

-Live view (can shot from the computer), silent mode too
-10mpx (more than enough, I do not need 18mpx)
-Sensor cleaning (5D classic is a nightmare regarding this)
-x1.6 crop (I can use a BD plan 10x at 6x having almost same framing that same lens at 10x on FF, f14 vs f22)
-Using optimum image circle of microscope lenses, lenses with large image circle can be pushed down (JML, M PLan 10x, etc..)
-Less magnification to get same framing means Stacking software will do its job better

1000D cons do not really affect me, other than not being Full frame

- Low pixel count (I think it is an advantage)
- Slow burst (I will not use it)
- Small viewfinder (but nice live view through computer)
- old AF system (from 350D, who needs it)

I know there are better APS-C cameras but I do not support canon´s mpx race. Going to nikon or others would mean new gear needed (flash, adapter, etc..)

PD-May be this post should go to equipment discusion forum ;-)

realjax
Posts: 138
Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 12:22 pm
Location: Netherlands
Contact:

Post by realjax »

Didn't the 5d have known issues with the mirror loosening after time ?
I'm sure Canon repaired those bodies at no charge..
See here
Jacco

seta666
Posts: 1071
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:50 am
Location: Castellon, Spain

Post by seta666 »

IS not the mirror that fail out, the thing seems like a mirror box problem. When the mirror goes up in the lock-up process it fails to stay up, and camera stops working.
Sometimes during normal shoting it happens too, I think its mirror box and shutter are reaching end of life. When it stops working I will take tha flat rate service
Regards

Harold Gough
Posts: 5786
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 2:17 am
Location: Reading, Berkshire, England

Post by Harold Gough »

The trouble with cameras is that, certainly with film cameras, they have to be taken apart to diagnose many problems. When I have my Olympus OMs repaired I always ask for a service at the same time.

Harold
My images are a medium for sharing some of my experiences: they are not me.

Blame
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri May 14, 2010 11:56 am

Post by Blame »

This is something I have been a tad worried about.

With stacking we are talking perhaps hundreds of shutter actions per photo. Unless the mirror is locked we are talking about the same number of mirror actions! Both components are likely to wear out after a few thousand photos.

There is an interesting option, but it is drastic. Open up the camera and fix the shutter permanently open. Perhaps you will have to lock the mirror too. Then take your stack in the dark, but with flash.

You don't need to darken the whole room, just isolate the subject, objective and flash under a light tight cloth.

The shutter is only necessary to stop light affecting the sensor between the time the shutter is closed and the sensor is read. No light except from the flash, no need for shutter.

I haven't actually done this. If somebody does, let us know if it works.

DQE
Posts: 1653
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 1:33 pm
Location: near Portland, Maine, USA

Post by DQE »

Blame wrote:This is something I have been a tad worried about.

With stacking we are talking perhaps hundreds of shutter actions per photo. Unless the mirror is locked we are talking about the same number of mirror actions! Both components are likely to wear out after a few thousand photos.

There is an interesting option, but it is drastic. Open up the camera and fix the shutter permanently open. Perhaps you will have to lock the mirror too. Then take your stack in the dark, but with flash.

You don't need to darken the whole room, just isolate the subject, objective and flash under a light tight cloth.

The shutter is only necessary to stop light affecting the sensor between the time the shutter is closed and the sensor is read. No light except from the flash, no need for shutter.

I haven't actually done this. If somebody does, let us know if it works.
One problem that holding the shutter open creates is that the electronic noise (esp hot pixel patterns) accumulates and increases the longer the shutter is open with the sensor active.

This problem can be reduced if one also obtains a "dark field" under the same exposure conditions, later subtracting the dark field from the final photo. Canon implements a variation on this with my 5DII camera as an option. Astrophotgraphy also has this problem, for much the same reasons.

Hope this concern/issue is helpful.
-Phil

"Diffraction never sleeps"

Mitch640
Posts: 2137
Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 1:43 pm

Post by Mitch640 »

The Canon mirror box and shutter are two different parts of the camera. Not connected. It's doubtful that both are going bad at the same time. If you send it to Canon, you should pay one service fee, but pay for the mirror and the shutter parts.

Did you call Canon? Might be worth it to send it in, get the estimate, then decide which is cheaper. Here, the estimate is free. if it's too much, have them send it back. They may even offer you a replacement at a really modest price, a refurb, or a lesser camera for almost nothing.

Blame
Posts: 342
Joined: Fri May 14, 2010 11:56 am

Post by Blame »

DQE

Ah. Not quite.

I think it goes something like this:

1) Sensor is cleared.
2) Shutter opens.
3) Shutter closes
4) Sensor is read.

The time between 1 and 4 is the determining factor for noise build up & hot pixels, but what I am proposing will not alter it. The shutter is not closed but as the only light involved would be the flash it should make no difference to picture noise or picture quality.

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic