Hi, this is my first post, and really these photos are quite near to being my first real attempts at doing macro-photography. I realize that there are alot of people using flash to get some of those nice lighting effects, unfortunately I dont own any fancy flashing or lighting equipment, I dont even use reflection equipment, its all natural light.
The fact that im relying heavily on natural light to light up my subjects means that depending on the light im going to get some distinct shadow effects, and possibly heavy contrasting of shadow/light on and around the subject, any tips here? Im aware that overcast days produce the best overall soft light for outdoor photography, and this is what ive been relying on to get some nice light on the subjects.
My setup is as follows:
Camera: Sony A700 DSLR
Lens: Sony SAL30M28 (30mm macro), Sony SAL50F18, Tamron XR DiII 18-200mm
Extension Tubes: Kenko 36mm, 20mm, 12mm
I can get some pretty decent results from the Tamron 18-200mm coupled with the kenko extension tubes, I prefer this combo to Sony's dedicated macro lens that ive got (the 30mm) because with the Sony lens im going to have to get real close to the subject, with the Tamron/tube combo on the other hand I can do the same thing but with better distance between myself and the subject, the lens of course gets quite close, but because of the long barrel.. the camera and myself are further away.
Below taken with the Tamron plus all Kenko extension tubes attached
Below taken with Sony SAL30M28 plus a 36mm Kenko extension tube
Just starting out with macro-photography.
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:13 am
HI, welcome!
I'd have thought the first thing to address
would be to think why...
My experience with superzooms on tubes is that they aren't very sharp. I'd have expected a BIG difference between using that approach and the macro lens.
I'd have thought the first thing to address
any tips here?distinct shadow effects, and possibly heavy contrasting of shadow/light on and around the subject,
would be to think why...
For macro all you need might be a white card with silver foil taped to one side, to giive you two levels of "fill".I dont even use reflection equipment, its all natural light.
My experience with superzooms on tubes is that they aren't very sharp. I'd have expected a BIG difference between using that approach and the macro lens.
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:13 am
Thanks Chris,
Ill have make myself one of those and try it out.
Dont get me wrong, the macro lens does produce some very sharp results, and coupled with the extension tubes I can really zoom into the details of the subject im shooting, whereas the Tamron lens simply cannot do that, although the Tamron is very good at taking those full-body shots especially if I want some of the environment in there as well.
I think for this thread I will put aside the Tamron lens, and just work with the Sony macro and extension tubes, plus with your recommendation I will make up a reflection card. Physically I will work with this equipment and see where it leads me. I will keep you guys updated.
Ill have make myself one of those and try it out.
Dont get me wrong, the macro lens does produce some very sharp results, and coupled with the extension tubes I can really zoom into the details of the subject im shooting, whereas the Tamron lens simply cannot do that, although the Tamron is very good at taking those full-body shots especially if I want some of the environment in there as well.
I think for this thread I will put aside the Tamron lens, and just work with the Sony macro and extension tubes, plus with your recommendation I will make up a reflection card. Physically I will work with this equipment and see where it leads me. I will keep you guys updated.
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:13 am
Its overcast here today so ive tried to take some photos, this one is probably the best out of the bunch, flies seem to be the perfect specimen for practicing because they are always around at the moment:
Upon recommendation I cut out some white paper and wrapped it with foil, I can see right away that this method works in various situations, it can produce some decent results for practically a no-cost lighting system, however the quality produced via this method also varies depending on natural light conditions.
I think I will just have to get myself a flash system, but before doing that im going to have to replace my hotshoe on the A700 because right now it wont hold anything there due to worn out edges (bought the camera secondhand).
Upon recommendation I cut out some white paper and wrapped it with foil, I can see right away that this method works in various situations, it can produce some decent results for practically a no-cost lighting system, however the quality produced via this method also varies depending on natural light conditions.
I think I will just have to get myself a flash system, but before doing that im going to have to replace my hotshoe on the A700 because right now it wont hold anything there due to worn out edges (bought the camera secondhand).
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:13 am
"are you sure you are just starting?"
Well to be completely honest, these arent the first macro shots ive taken, out of around 20-40 shots maybe one or two are acceptable
Here are some examples of photos which are still interesting to look at but are not that effective from a macro-photography point of view, the other 100 or so look like your average snapshots, keep in mind im working with a 30mm macro lens, working distance is so small that most of the time the insects make a run.. or fly for it, with the tubes on I have to get so close that the lens actually makes contact with surrounding objects.
Well to be completely honest, these arent the first macro shots ive taken, out of around 20-40 shots maybe one or two are acceptable
Here are some examples of photos which are still interesting to look at but are not that effective from a macro-photography point of view, the other 100 or so look like your average snapshots, keep in mind im working with a 30mm macro lens, working distance is so small that most of the time the insects make a run.. or fly for it, with the tubes on I have to get so close that the lens actually makes contact with surrounding objects.