http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... php?t=9328
Following are the details of the completed repair job.
It took a long time to find the cement needed to join the prisms (beam splitter). After much searching I settled on Permatex Bullseye Windshield Repair Kit ($15.81 CDN) which was finally found at a "Tuner" auto store not a block from my house. I didn't need the syringe, mount pad, adhesive pad or curing film-square in the kit but the 0.75ml tube of cement seemed ideal (according to the MSDS info) for the 4 drops required.
The next morning was sunny so I spent about an hour prepping the glass and fixture but Murphy stepped in just as it was ready to hit the sun. Fortunately there was only a 35% overcast so standing time was one hour instead of 15 minutes.
Ever since seeing the cloud in the beam splitter I've been searching for what may have caused it. This segment of a document "The Bonding of Optical Elements Techniques and Troubleshooting by Summers Optical" may be the answer:
Needless to say I gave the mirrored prism a generous chamfer. While observing the curing process it proved to be a good idea.Edge Pinch, Perimeter Separation, Reticulation
CAUSE:
Thin flats with 90 degree ground edges can show a distortion after cure around the perimeters of their bond surfaces. Beam splitter blocks and corner cubes can show this same distortion, however, it is usually along the line of the acute angle. This is pinching of the edges and is caused by cement shrinkage.
Occasionally this shrinkage will cause bond separation, evidenced by mirror like reflection or interference rings around the perimeter. Reticulation is a term used to describe a "cobwebbing" radiating from the edges of the doublet inward. A look at this under magnification will show microscopic bubbles caused by air being drawn in during the curing because there was not enough or no cement around the bond perimeter as the cement contracted during cure.
REMEDY:
Although both anaerobic and non-anaerobic cements can result in edge pinch, perimeter separation and reticulation; the non-anaerobic cements will cause edge pinch and separation more often. This is because the outer perimeter cement is curing at the same speed as the cement between the elements. As the cement cures the adhesion and shrinkage combine to pull down and in, resulting in pinch, distortion and in some cases bond failure and separation. Reticulation is more common with anaerobic adhesives and is primarily due to lack of cement at the perimeter of the bond. It can not be over emphasized that the chamfer must hold enough cement to be drawn in during cure. Elements without chamfers exhibit a high percentage of perimeter difficulties so chamfers should be designed in to eliminate this problem. Another cause of reticulation is insufficient degassing of the mixed cement. The technician should read carefully any manufacturers instructions to eliminate entrapped air and also take care that there are no air bubbles in the cement left around the perimeter of the bond surface.
Speaking of mirrored prism I want to give g4lab (Gene) my sincerest thanks for pointing out that I could just rub the surface with a cerium oxide solution on my finger. It worked amazingly well and the pellicle ionization popped out as bright as new. The acrylic sheet I prepared for polishing was unnecessary.
Having recently acquiring a trinocular head for my A.O. Model 110 I tried it's bino head on the Reichert-Jung. It fits and views perfectly! Choronzon you were right all along. The flats on the Jung-bino are only necessary to accommodate the tube extension. The 2 inch dovetail on any old A.O. infinity drops right in.
Collimation of the splitter assembly was made easy because the 3 screws have a relief below the head and the holes are big enough to allow plenty of wiggle. About 5 tries and the view was perfectly coincident. As a credit to my fixture the final position was very close to the scribe marks I placed around the original assembly.
My plan was to change the 10, 40x, and 100x Aspergillus damaged achromats with Plan Achro's I'd acquired but the 100x on my model 110 was damaged and the 40x which I bought from "dealerdomain" ($47.00) was oil soaked and will not focus.
Here are some pics of a Carolina slide Puccinia graminis Aecia "Wheat Rust" taken through the scope:
This setup suffers more contrast loss than an actual look thanks to 4 glass surfaces between scope and camera but I'm quite happy regardless. You'll have to trust that the view is coincident as it is too difficult to demonstrate.
This is the setup with a Nikon 990:
Thank you very much for your help everyone, it really made the repair a cinch.
Jim
Under magnified scrutiny it was found to be oil soaked too! 
