Wood Gnat

Images taken in a controlled environment or with a posed subject. All subject types.

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NikonUser
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Wood Gnat

Post by NikonUser »

These gnats fly here in late Summer. Differentiated from other gnats by the spotted, hairy wings and the the presence of 3 ocelli.
Family: Anisopodidae, Genus: Sylvicola.
Length (excluding antennae): 4 mm
Whole fly: El Nikkor 50/2.8 @ f/6.7, 25 frames @ 0.1 mm ZS PMax
Wing: El Nikkor 50/2.8 @ f/6.7, 31 frames @ 0.02 mm ZS PMax
Head: Nikon 4x CF N Plan Achromat, 32 frames @ 0.02 mm ZS PMax

Image
Image
Image
NU09178
NU.
student of entomology
Quote – Holmes on ‘Entomology’
” I suppose you are an entomologist ? “
” Not quite so ambitious as that, sir. I should like to put my eyes on the individual entitled to that name.
No man can be truly called an entomologist,
sir; the subject is too vast for any single human intelligence to grasp.”
Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr
The Poet at the Breakfast Table.

Nikon camera, lenses and objectives
Olympus microscope and objectives

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

Excellent!

Barry
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Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:34 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by Barry »

Very beautiful!

If I may ask for the post-processing:
A while ago you posted a picture of your setup. A gray-card was used as background.
I suspected you used this to select for your white balance, but when I look at several of your images the background varies from grey to white. How do you controll the white balance?

Thanks,
Barry

NikonUser
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Post by NikonUser »

Thanks Charles, always nice to get such comments from an expert.

Barry: thanks.
I'm not 100% certain that I understand your question.
I use flash and set the white balance on the camera (mostly Nikon D90) for flash, I don't actually use a gray card to preset the WB.
I use a gray card for almost all my backgrounds.
However, I don't bother to make the background the same intensity of gray between images. Thus some images may have a dark gray and some may be almost white background, but they all come from the same gray card.
The only consistency is that the RGB content are equal although I often get sloppy and get the RGB values close but not perfectly matched; also the intensity of gray often varies within an image.
Thus the top part of the background could have RGB values of 240 240 240 (or more likely 238 240 242) and the bottom part 220 220 220. This result is because most of the light comes in from the top and thus the bottom part of the image is darker than the top part.
Black is simply RGB values of 0 0 0 , white is 255 255 255 and mid gray is 128 128 128.
I adjust the intensity of gray using the curves feature in Photoshop.

For plates, i.e., more than 1 image in a set I try to get all the backgrounds to look the same intensity of gray.
SEE HERE

I take more care with printed images than with images to be displayed on a monitor.

Hope this helps.
NU.
student of entomology
Quote – Holmes on ‘Entomology’
” I suppose you are an entomologist ? “
” Not quite so ambitious as that, sir. I should like to put my eyes on the individual entitled to that name.
No man can be truly called an entomologist,
sir; the subject is too vast for any single human intelligence to grasp.”
Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr
The Poet at the Breakfast Table.

Nikon camera, lenses and objectives
Olympus microscope and objectives

Barry
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:34 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by Barry »

Thanks, NU.

The reason I asked is because with my current setup I get images which have a little too much green/blue in it. To correct this, I put a little piece of greycard in the frame, which I can select later in Paint Shop Pro to adjust white balance. I thought you may do the same - your images have a very natural colour of light, I like that.

My current setup is with fibre optics and a self made transparent tube or pp-ball. Camera WB set to temp. 4400 or something like that. Guess the problem is in the light - but with post processing, it works for me.

Cheers,
Barry

AndrewC
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Post by AndrewC »

Hi Barry,

Have you tried shooting with Auto WB ? Does that still give you a blue cast ?

Andrew

NikonUser
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Location: southern New Brunswick, Canada

Post by NikonUser »

Barry:
Perhaps your fibre optics are actually cooler than 4400; and/or your camera is not adjusting enough.
I would try setting the WB lower to, say, 3700 or 3000 and see if that eliminates the excessive blue/green.
NU.
student of entomology
Quote – Holmes on ‘Entomology’
” I suppose you are an entomologist ? “
” Not quite so ambitious as that, sir. I should like to put my eyes on the individual entitled to that name.
No man can be truly called an entomologist,
sir; the subject is too vast for any single human intelligence to grasp.”
Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr
The Poet at the Breakfast Table.

Nikon camera, lenses and objectives
Olympus microscope and objectives

lauriek
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Location: South East UK
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Post by lauriek »

I definitely wouldn't use Auto WB if stacking, the change in the subject through the course of a deep stack can easily cause this to 'drift' through the stack causing a colour shift in the output images which would be a major pain to correct... In fact experience has taught me not to use auto-anything in camera while stacking.

Nicely done shots NU! :)

AndrewC
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Post by AndrewC »

lauriek wrote:I definitely wouldn't use Auto WB if stacking, the change in the subject through the course of a deep stack can easily cause this to 'drift' through the stack causing a colour shift in the output images which would be a major pain to correct... In fact experience has taught me not to use auto-anything in camera while stacking.

Nicely done shots NU! :)
Horses for courses ! Obviously subject and camera dependant but I find it works really well. The way I tested - shot a couple of stacks saving NEF and jpg with AWB. Converted the NEF files all with the same settings. Didn't see any problems.

Andrew

Barry
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Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:34 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by Barry »

Today I tested Auto WB vs. my standard workflow (manually set to 4400), and in Auto WB it does not give the colour cast. Great - but as Lauriek points out, I used to avoid anything which is "auto" in order to get a controlled, repeatable workflow.
I'll play around with a lower colour temp. and let you know!

Cheers,
Barry

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

With my camera, AWB sometimes works great and sometimes gives bad results. It seems to depend on colors that appear in the subject.

So what I do is to set the camera's custom color balance using a white card temporarily placed in front of the subject.

The camera exposes the white card as gray, which sets the appropriate RGB ratios to make the illumination neutral.

My halogen fiber illuminator is one of cheap jobs that gets a lot redder as the brightness is turned down. I change the brightness a lot, as a way of forcing exposure times of around 1 second to keep both vibration and pixel noise under control.

As a result, I've made a habit of setting custom color balance as the last step, just before shooting every real stack.

Not necessary to do it every time when you're using flash, of course.

--Rik

Barry
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:34 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by Barry »

Regarding the White Balance, I did some research.

Apparently, to set the WB custom to a colour temperature is not the same (at least in the Canon 50D) as when an other setting (e.g. Auto, or Daylight) picks the same colour temperature. This because there is no colour correction (green/magenta, etc) made by custom WB, in contrast to the other settings.

The green cast which I got recently is due to this phenomenon. I corrected it in post-processing, but it can also be corrected in-camera by "whitebalance correction". Guess this is quite difficult and I am afraid of the issue Rik describes: adjusting the fibre optic brightness also alters the colour.

So I inserted a little piece of grey card in the frame, choose "set white point" in EOS Utility, picked the grey colour and it adjusts nicely to a neutral WB. This gives nearly identical shots to the Auto WB, but it keeps the setting constant through shots - until you modify it. Works nice, I think.

Cheers,
Barry

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